linewar

The ARB bumper? As far as I know the name is the only difference in the US and Canadian models, but I'm sure a Canadian will chime in if there is a difference. If not, you may want to start a new thread so owners can list the differences between the models.

It's all good. The guy that was trying to sell stuff from his wrecked PFinder stopped replying to my PM's. He must have gone a different route. I really want to do an OME lift anyway, but couldn't pass up a good deal on an AC package if it was to be had.

Geez, man. If you come up with any ideas as to what caused such a random catastrophic failure, I'd love to hear it. I have never heard of a head gasket blowing while the vehicle sits in a garage. (I know that's not what happened, but it still seems like if that had happened while driving , you would have noticed it. Maybe an irresponsible party started it and revved it while it was parked and you were not looking, and blew the gasket?)

I'm sure more qualified gearheads will chime in here on procedure, but I'll start with the obvious - why do you think the head gasket is blown? Coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant, or a severe loss of compression?

Can anyone give me a recommendation on a kayak carrier for the R50?

Can I run the Deluxe lift package intended for 99.5 - 2004 on my 96?

Interested in the mats. Price and shipping to 77651?

1996 almost 144,000 TB done at 107K

Love Purple, Live Gold - LSU, baby, GEAUX TIGERS!!! An LSU fan's orange enemies would be Florida and Auburn. Tennessee not so much since they're not a regular on the schedule. I agree - methinks devonianwalk is a Gamecock fan.

I'm thinking my '96 would look alright in koi orange. . . with black Soft 8's

Go figure that Cali would have some kind of law that makes common sense null and void. Hehhh. What kind of prep work is required? Cleaning/ etching, etc? As for a whole R50, they sell kits on their site and I think it's 3 gallons for an SUV and 2 for a regular sedan. My hood is oxidizing really bad between the windshield washer ports, and the roof is doing the same thing now. Heck, it's been on there since October 1995, so at almost 18 years old, I guess it has the right to do that, lol.

Ya, I'm kind of digging it. The price comparison is much lower than a paint job, I like a matte finish, and you can literally apply it in the driveway since you can peel off any overspray. I'm thinking camo green or brown. . . but the koi orange may be a possibility if I'm feeling spunky.

It's a process to "paint" your car with a fusing plastic. You spray it on like a normal paint job, but then when you get tired of it you can peel it off by hand and paint it a different color. Could come in handy for me since my hood and roof could use a repaint - this may be a viable option. Want to see if anyone has used it/ heard of it/ know someone/ etc. Link: https://www.dipyourcar.com/ Pic: (I dig the matte finish)

I went and looked up in the assembly using the diagram from the website that Leo94 provided, and sure enough - one of the brake stoppers is completely gone (that's what was on my floormat) and all but one of the three stoppers in the clutch assembly are gone, and the remaining one is a partial. This may fix both my constantly-on brakelights and my cruise control that has not been working for a year or more.

Thanks, y'all.

And I wonder if that may be why the cruise control is not working either. Maybe the disc on the clutch failed and now the cruise won't engage?

That's it exactly. I noticed the pieces of a tan rubber disk by the floormat, but had no idea what I was looking at. Does anyone have a pic they could post of the replacement location, since mine is no longer in its location?

Ok, so I just got back from a week vacation where my Pathfinder sat idle for 10 days or so. It started right up and was fine in every respect except that, after making my first drive upon returning, the brake lights (and the high-mount third light) stayed on. I've tried playing with the pedal and inspecting the visible wiring, but am not sure what I'm looking at. As a temporary fix, I just pull the fuse when I stop the vehicle so the battery doesn't drain, but that means if someone is driving behind me, it looks like I am braking all the time. Any ideas?

Did this procedure Saturday with no problem. Ordered a pair of key fobs from eBay for $27.30, and followed the instructions. 1. Make sure both fobs have batteries and are ready. 2. Sit in the driver's seat, and use the driver's-side power door lock button to lock all the doors. You are now sitting in your Pathfinder with it not running and all the doors locked with you inside. 3. Put the ignition key in the ignition and remove it six times within 10 seconds. You don't have to do this blazing fast, just be steady - all the way in, all the way out 6 times. (insert "that's what she said" here, hehhhhhhhh) 4. The hazard lights should blink. You don't need anyone outside to watch, you will see the lights on the dash and hear the relay click. 5. Very important, because I forgot this the first time around: When the hazard lights blink, put the key back into the ignition and turn it to "ACC." 6. Press any button on the key fob, and the hazard lights should blink. 7. If you have a second fob to program, use the driver's-side power door lock button to unlock then re-lock the doors, then hit any button on the second fob. 8. Manually (with your thumb) unlock the driver's door and exit the vehicle. Check both fobs to verify function. Mine unlock the driver's door with the first press of unlock, then all other doors and rear hatch with the second press. No lights blink or horns sound when unlocking, but the hazard lights blink twice when I lock it. Unfortunately, even though the fob has a trunk release button, it does not function on my Pathfinder. Of course, pressing unlock twice unlocks the hatch, but there seems to be still no way to just pop the back glass. Oh well, the gas struts on that thing are shot anyway. . . .

Man I wish I had never posted this; I just realized someone actually did this. While it's flattering to think that I was able to influence someone (maybe they Googled Tammany and Boss Tweed and got a history lesson) it is absolutely unsportsmanlike to have done so. It was just a joke. Guess I should think twice before pressing "Post" next time.

Wow, that thing is sweet! But the steering wheel is on the wrong side. . .

Here go da hawtness raht hyur. . . . And doesn't this look so inviting?

I'm not sure about cross-application to other Jeeps, since the KJ is the only Jeep I ever owned. I did a little more refreshing of my memory, and looked at the Boulder Bars link I posted on page 1. The Frankenlift for the gasser KJ uses OME 927's in the front for H/D, and the Frankenlift for the CRD uses OME 790's in the front. Both use 948's in the rear. Not sure about the 928, since it is not listed.

Some people were running Rancho or SkyJacker lifts, and several of the more adventurous assembled their own kits to their preference, but I didn't have the experience for that. I limited myself to the pre-assembled, packaged lifts. Apart from my JBA lift, a kit that had OME was the standard for lifted KJ's. Some used Rancho strut assemblies with OME springs, some used full OME setups, but OME springs were the status quo for lifted KJ's.