linewar

I just bought some KYB's off a guy in the For Sale section that he had on his 04. He ran the trap out for me on fitment: Not sure if that answers your question, but that 5/8" less extension shouldn't be an issue except in the most serious of off-roading situations.

I think this has been asked before, but I'm hazy on it and can't find the topic via search. Will front struts for a 2004 (KYB brand) fit my 96? I want to say yes, but not 100% so if anyone can chime in that knows for sure, please do!

I feel that. Less than a week after I bought my Beetle brand new, someone put a whiskey dent in the rear-driver's side fender. No note, no nothing. Speaking of that, I need to get that fixed. . . .

there is an easy and cheap mod for the knock sensor, I've done it on mine. Here's a link: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34574-knock-sensor-relocation/?hl=%2Bknock+%2Bsensor+%2Brelocation I'm in SE Texas near the Louisiana state line, holler if you're coming this far south.

Mine has a full-sized spare underneath, but when I put bigger tires on I won't be able to fit an oversized one under there - that's what I meant, used the full-sized in the wrong context.

I wish mine had one. If I found one in a junk yard that had the carrier, I would seriously consider dismantling the entire rear quarter and lift gate to put it on. There is something to be said for having a full-sized spare and doing five-tire rotation. (I know there are other ways, but are there better ways?)

Good feedback. I lean toward dealing with a member as well; in fact that's why I called him in the first place. Steve, if you get some info from Ironman, I'd like to know. I'm targeting an August time-frame for the build, so there's plenty of time.

Hah!! I got fount out!! I did get some feedback, that's why I was looking Ironman. I'm not in it as much for the height as for the ride quality and it seems that Ironman offers a better balance of ride quality and height versus OME. Your price is not that much different than Rocky Road, but I haven't seen Rocky Road on the board either.

Anyone have any opinions on doing business with either of these? Looking at getting an OME suspension kit put together, and the price is only about $50 different between the two. I like Rugged because they're an active vendor here, but Rocky Road is cheaper. . . . Rugged Rocks: https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-wd21-r50-r51-lift-kits-suspension-c-38_593.html?osCsid=hu1bnl4vil9sei2qk47rch3vj6 Rocky Road: http://www.rocky-road.com/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit.html Truth be told I was more interested in Ironman, but according to Steven at Rugged, Ironman is in the middle of some kind of North American reorganization and it will be hard to get products from them for the forseeable future. Mods: I didn't post this in the R50 section because both companies provide products for other MY Pathfinders, but if it needs to be moved, I understand.

Considering Ironman instead of OME for the R50. Anyone know a good online source, so I can analyze the price difference?

I feel the vibration in the brake pedal, and the front end shakes as I'm braking. As the vehicle slows, it lessens, to where as I'm drawing to a stop it drags ever so slightly per revolution of the wheels. It seems to be primarily in the front left. Could this be a bad/ worn tie rod end or ball joint? I noticed when I picked the truck up from my mother-in-law, she obviously had not had the tires rotated, and it was almost undriveable. The front driver's side was very badly worn and worn very unevenly. I get a picture in my mind that, as the brakes are applied, the front left wheel "shakes," or rotates on it's vertical axis, and that may be what I'm feeling. I guess a tire rotation could prove or disprove that theory. . . .

I have something weird going on with the front end in the R50. I've thought I have a warped front driver's side brake rotor for a while, because of speed-sensitive vibration when braking. (pulsations slow as the vehicle slows) The weird thing is, it sort of comes and goes. Some times I drive the vehicle and it is disturbingly severe, and sometimes it is very minimal. Obviously, I know I need to replace the rotor, but I'm putting it off as long as I feel I can because there are SO MANY other components in the front end I might as well replace if I'm taking the rotor off. (Suspension, probably tie rod ends, likely ball joints, bushings, front CV axles. . . the thing is almost 20 years old) At this point, my mechanical curiosity is what is really piqued - why would this come and go?

'Tis an abomination, and an affront to all the Pathfinders that came before! Huzzah! (I bet I sound like a WD owner talking about the 96 R50 Pathy, lol. . . )

I think they should just drop the Pathfinder name altogether. The only path that thing could find is an Interstate highway on it's in-dash nav system. What's the code for a Quest? Because that should be the letter code for it.

That may be true. I'm thinking it has a built-in redundancy of disabling fuel flow in addition to not allowing the starter to engage. If it doesn't work, it may be a fuel disabling feature of the security system, since the engine is turning but not firing. Otherwise, I'm at a loss. Always a good decision.

I may know the culprit: I recently replaced all the pedal rubber stoppers on my 96 with a stick shift. There are two on the brake pedal - one for the brake light switch and one for the cruise, and there are three on the clutch - one for the cruise, one to keep metal from rubbing on metal as you release the clutch, and one engages a safety switch that requires the clutch to be depressed to start. Look under, where the pedals are, and the switch will be on the firewall where the clutch pedal touches at full depression. You should be able to rig up a stopper with some duct tape or something that you can use to tape over it to push in the switch. That will tell the ECU the clutch is depressed so it will enable fuel to the injectors, and the mechanical action of the clutch should engage the engine. Anyone see any potential liabilities to this safety workaround?

Have you checked the voltage return on the alternator? I had an alternator go out on another vehicle and it behaved exactly like that - chugging, stumbling, black smoke from the exhaust and drinking gas. I only knew what it was because the dash had a voltmeter and I noticed it was low. I trickle charged the battery, it started and ran fine, then as the charge got lower it would behave like that. On that note I would check the alternator and battery because if the battery is old, it may just not be able to deliver enough power for the components. But definitely check the alternator return with a voltmeter.

Sometimes when I have the truck in gear, then put the clutch in and put it in neutral then let the clutch out, it makes a sound as I'm letting it out in neutral. Sort of a soft "bang" sound. It doesn't grab or anything, just sounds like something is hitting something under the truck. FWIW, I've never dropped a trans and changed a clutch, but I have bled the slave, did it about 3 or 4 months ago.

The clutch in this thing has always been pretty stiff, like doing a one-leg leg press. However, lately I've noticed that in the mornings it's. . . softer. I haven't changed my habits, and it still shifts fine, but it feels less springy, and as though I don't have to push it as far to engage it. No real problems, just weirdness because when I drive it at lunchtime and later in the day, it takes as much pressure as usual. To my knowledge, it is the original clutch and throwout, so it's 17 years old with 145,000 miles on it. I've had other vehicles where when the clutch was going out, it started having trouble moving gears and also the engagement point started seeming more random. I haven't had a clutch feel like this one, where it gets "soft."

I figured as much.

Any update on this?

I can dig that reasoning. I like the look of my pre-facelift R50, but would sure love the more horses of the VQ engine. Keffer, I haven't looked closely enough to determine if the front fenders of a post-facelift are the same, but I think it would be safe to assume that they are not. Front clip should be all sheet metal - hood, fenders - bumper, and unibody structure underlying it. That wouldn't include the radiator or other mechanical parts, just structural members. Unless you're a skilled body guy, I would leave it as is. Here's a question to consider for irony's sake: If it was wrecked twice, was it rebuilt as a pre-facelift both times? Or did the owner source the post-facelift parts and then, when he/she wrecked it again a year later, just went "Awww come on!!" and rebuilt it with older parts the second time? Lol

On second thought, $2000 may be high. I'd probably try starting at $1000 and look to settle at $1500. But seeing as how they're not being upfront about the damage, the whole thing may be a scam.

Then it is a MY 2001, but likely was wrecked and the front end replaced with a pre-facelift front clip. Keffer, if I was in the market, and I inspected it and the work was done well, I'd throw $2000 cash at them and see if they bite.

That can't be an 01, it's one of two things: a pre-facelift 99, or a wrecked 2001 with a pre-facelift front clip installed. Ask for a pic of the engine, if it's a 3.5L engine then it's a wrecked 01 with a replacement front clip, if it's a 3.3L engine then they got the year wrong. Those wheels and rear are definitely post-facelift though. What a strange beast - but explainable with more info from the seller.