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Everything posted by 3rdtimesacharm
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Thinking about painting my pathy with 3m bedliner
3rdtimesacharm replied to reelserenity's topic in General Forums
"Mar-Hyde® Truck Guard Pro™ is a high-quality, professional spray-on coating for truck beds and other surfaces that require a tough, durable finish. Designed for application with a standard undercoating spraygun. Truck Guard Pro™ represents a significant new money making opportunity for every bodyshop. The kit comes with enough product to spray a standard size truck bed (plus a bonus), gloves and instruction sheet. Spraygun sold separately, product #120." http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_Z7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7000000_nid=6RS0HF53WPgsS38K155C5RglN8DJ49Z0NKbl Imagine breathing in bedliner! yum. -
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Some say yes, some say no. I figure it comes down to snorkel design + driving conditions/speed. If MPG is more of a concern than hydrolock I think live without.
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NPORA delivers the goods! Cheers for the effort. The weight saving from a chop like that blows my 84hp mind.
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Half thinking it's a radio controlled toy. If it is real, anyone seen a build thread or specs? sure is purdy.
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Reading that I gave them a fondle and I'd hazzard a guess the 555 boot used a thinner rubber, but without cutting them open I wouldnt stake my life on it. When I do the 2wd steering swap I'll use the nylocs as easy fit spares and get some me castelation. I wonder if moogs heavy duty (problem solver?) tie rods use nylocs..
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Got my hands on a Moog DS-2386 (tie rod assembly) and a Moog ES-3002 (single outter rod). Both came in official sealed moog boxes but the assembly is actually a 555 product. From what I gather moog outsource some things to Three 5s (made in Japan) and get them to manufacture to their moogy standards. Comparing the two is vaguely interesting ! The moog has a remarkably smoother movement where as the 555 is definitely rough and almost binding. The moog also uses a nyloc rather than castle nut and is without greasy nips. The 555 has a rubber nubbin on each boot for old grease to come out of as you gun it in. Saying that, they dont actually have nipples but a screw on the underside. Plus they come with castle nuts + pins. With the rough movement I think it'll need greasing pretty often. If anyones curious I could take pics.. they're getting fitted on the truck tomorrow though
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For whatever reason I was drilling into the carrier today and before I know whats going on I've got a big ol' wet crotch. I've never seen a rusted out hanger (?) but maybe a couple of drain holes are required. Especially if you are planning on running a cable through it.
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Did this ever have a happy ending?
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Seems like quite a coincidence for the switch to go right as you've changed a bulb/jiggled the front about.. stranger things have happened though ! Good luck.
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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
3rdtimesacharm replied to RedRider3141's topic in The Garage
Replaced both upper ball joints. The replacements had nyloc nuts rather than castellation plus pin. No greasy nips either. MOOG part number NI-BJ-10389. Possibly made in Belgium.. -
Limiting straps could be an easy solution to excessive droop (until further mods are made). I hate paying for things when I know it's just going to be changed down the line. Scratch that, I hate paying for anything. Comparing prices between say the USA to GB, you get the feeling you are royally being shafted.
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You have a stock truck with no lift on stock shocks. You have a searched around and found the rear shock compresses down to 14" and maxes out at 22". You need a new pair of shocks, sad times. You find a new shock that compresses down to 14" but can max out further to 25". Are you now fine to ride around as before without any negative affects? Do shocks have a specific sweet spot they function best within or is anything within that 14 to 25" fair game? Are you missing something important?
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Jam on a standard bumper and sell the ARB seperately and you'll be rich beyond your wildest dreams.
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Meatier eh? And all for only £39.99.. I believe California would be OK with this set up.
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Something like this? orange line - long metal rod or similar The lower point presses against the ground, stopping rotation.
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Ate are a big european (German?) company that do alot of original equipment. The quality should be there, if that links in with performance I do not know.
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Garret Tb25 maybe. I have read about people swapping around turbos but I don't recall the specifics. The vast majority of NPORA members have never seen a TD27, you'll be better off searching on http://www.navara.asia . There is alot of good td27 info and personal experiences on that there forum.
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ah Ha! Investigation over. I've not know a car do this before. There's enough wiring updates and mystery switches by prev owners to get me feeling cautious. Unless... your ride is haunted too.
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Be afraid my friend, very afraid. Darkness surrounds you !
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It is dark. You are sat in your car. The key is not in the ignition. The lights are turned off. The hand brake is engaged. Your foot presses the brake pedal. What do you see in your rear view mirror?
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Got to love Fronteras. For anyone not familiar, this was the swb. They're usually a 2.0 petrol with the odd 2.8td and even rarer 2.5td kicking around.. What put me off having another was the massive metal pillar behind the doors blocked alot of view, plus the 2.0 being pretty damn guttless.
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It's definitely got a following. Probably limited due our size and ever increasing 'no go' areas, but it's definitely here. Land Rovers being the most popular choice. This camo WD21 looks to be more show pony than off roader. Plus, those tyres have probably done 'less than 1000miles' because you'd get pulled over as soon as the cops saw how much they stick out Kudos to the effort they put in. I hope the new owner becomes a NPORA member.
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Rummaging around on UK ebay and found this WD21 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281099648438?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 Looks like someones spent alot of time and money on it..
