Karmann
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Posts posted by Karmann
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That's intense. Looks like Riverside lately
(Our brothers and sisters to the East were pounded with flash floods) -
It would help. As you are essentially raising the rear end up to 2" or which ever height you chose. Which then, you would have to travel another X amount to bottom out.
Yes, the Pre-face lift springs are higher rate. But, OEM replacements from Moog etc, are more costly than IronMan or Old Man Emu springs. ~$62 each for rears, ~$106 each for fronts.
Well in that case... I think I may just save my pennies for a while. Is there anything by way of bump stops that might help?
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I personal don´t like HID light. on the wet road they don't light to well. I´m looking forward to change all my lighting to LED light. they light much better then normal light and the battery consumption is WEY lower.
I hear ya! But if I'm not mistaken, I think HIDs draw less than an incandescent/ halogen counterpart?
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Karmann, found what you need. These are simple rear spring spacers. Up to whatever lift you want.
Should be well within your budget!
I like those, but would they help with bottoming out? I'm trying to think, I mean, if it bottoms out at this amount of travel and spring height, I would think just essentially extending the top of the spring wouldn't make a difference?
And to an earlier comment- are the pre-facelift springs a higher spring rate?
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Here is my setup:
Rigid Dually D2 Spots, and some little cube fogs pointed outwards to illuminate the rocks etc. They did an excellent job illuminating in a dust storm in Anza Borrego. Very happy. Total cost for all 4: $220
They make a HID H-3 set up.I purchased My HID kits from simplyhid.com.I put a set in my HELLA 700FFs and I myself have never seen anything as bright as they are and it was an easy fab.I have the high/low HB2 HIDs for my headlamps they have a bluish tint that I like anyway so I am kind of looking for a couple bluish tint and 100watt H-3s for my driving lights for now if its safe to run 100 or 130 watt bulbs in there? Is it safe if any of you are running them?Maybe for the price of the good bulbs they have on amazon it would be better just to get another HID kit? They sure are bright! But the reflector in your light body is more important to a good light beam I think? Who has the best bargains for driving/Fog lamps and bulbs
Any details on the Headlight HID swap? Have you aimed them so they're not blinding to oncoming traffic? (Aka, will I get pulled over
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The cars of that era were rudimentary by today's standards, but intensely durable. As on my 31 Ford Model A pickup, pretty much all cars of the era were purely mechanical- no servos, computers, or even hydraulic systems. There were no computers to fry, filters to gum up, disk brakes to clog, shocks to blow, coilsprings to unseat, ignition systems, intake manifolds, abs, radial tires, aluminum construction; none of it was there really, or it was in it's early stages. This was a time when even starting a car without using a crank was rather novel. They were simple and low powered- basically high speed tractors with skinny tires in big radiuses (pizza cutters FTW!), with cast iron everything, but specifically motors, and steel that could be used on a battle ship. Amazing vehicles, thanks for sharing!
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Doesn't bother me that much considering my mirrors are powered, heated, and fold. I'd expect them to be a little complex to replace. The door cards should be an easy takeoff anyway.
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I have Phillips Xtreme-Power 9003s in my headlamps- huge difference there. I covered my fogs with a yellow lamin-x film, and stock bulbs. (waiting for alternatives) Overall the stock output is decent, but since I needed more for exploring the desert, I installed some Rigid Dually Spots in my bumper, with small pod fogs as something to light up the rocks etc. Very happy with this setup!
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They should've given you a discount, considering you probably saved them time, money, and return headaches.
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^ It's always good to know someone out there is knowledgeable about their rig, but so disheartening when they're rather illiterate.
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I feel ya on the spring compressor...I get nervous every time I use them. I go overboard and use 2 sets.
I went with the OME stiff springs on the front and new KYB struts. I couldn't compress them enough....too stiff.
I took the struts and springs to the shop and they charged me $20 to put 'em on. Struts themselves, just bolt in...then take it in for an alignment.
The rear, you don't have to compress the springs at all. Just unbolt the swaybar, shocks (just bottom side), and the panhard bar. Now the truck is sitting on the springs. Jack up one side...high as you can...slip the spring in. Let down. Repeat on other side. Bolt everything back in place. Easy peasy.
It's a good time to replace your shocks too, while you already have one side unbolted.
Hmm... I may just do that when the $$ time comes, have a shop assemble the strut and spring and then do the rest myself.
It's comforting that the rear is so easy, though I definitely won't replace the shocks, they're less than a year old, and Bilstein so they ought to be good for a while.
I wish I had the cash to swap to Ironman all around right now, but school and the gf take precedent.
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Can't edit?
It would be nice to have...people always ask if it's a 4runner.
That still hasn't stopped anyone from calling mine a 4runner
My ex-gf asked once if it was a Hyundai...glad to be done with that.-
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Ok thanks for the help so far. Again, what is the correct factory height for a 2002 R50 SE? Because mine sits level at all four corners, and if that's factory then I could assume my springs are fine right?
Also, the main reason I won't lift the rear and not the front is because I really hate the stinkbug stance, and would have to lift the front at the same time- $$$. Because I really had a bad experience with a spring compressor, I'm just leaving that kind of front install to the "pros."
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When basic parts are junkyard gold digging at its best.
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I agree that even piecing it together may be best, but if you just want to give the springs a little boost/help while your still saving, you might want to look in to the "Mr Gasket" coils spring spacers and/or the block type of insert.
Spacer:
Block Inserts:
Any direct link on these?
Those spring coil spacers, I have in my stock springs right now. Gave me about 1" to reduce the sag I had. Working well.
If you need Karmann I can take a pic of how I installed them to work out the best.
I would love a picture
Also, here's a question, how are these supposed to sit? Because I have equal measurements from all fenders.... -
Karmann: The price of those rubber spring bags are MORE than the cost of IronMan rear springs. Or even stock replacements.
Which you need new springs. For whatever reason, the facelift Pathfinders springs tend to sag a lot worse than pre facelift ones.
Camel4x4.com Official distributor of IronMan springs in the USA. Link Rears: http://store.camel4x4.com/product/NISS035B.html
He has a set in stock right now.
I realize that, but if I were going to buy those springs, I would buy all 4 and have it professionally installed, which means $$$ The rubber bags I might be able to install myself... just a thought.
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If I go over a bump or driveway at even a relatively moderate speed, I hear a loud thump, as the rear suspension bottoms out. I would love to lift at some point with Ironman Suspension, but don't have the $$$ right now. I have Bilstein 4600 shocks back there with only 20k on them, so I'm looking for solutions other than shock replacement.
Upgraded bump stops seem like one route, but I'm looking for a direction.... Mainly I want to keep flex to a maximum, but have a more controlled ride on and off road. Airlift airbags seem like they could work, but I'm still a little leary of their durability.
These seem interesting:
http://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/Nissan/Pathfinder/2002/TNRPF4A.html?vehicleid=20021014039
Thanks!
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Have a pic? I have no clue what you're talking about. I remember something like that on the older WD21s but nothing on the R50....?
This is what I'm talking about. It's basically a rectangular version of the Xterra racks.
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Likewise- Some sort of filler. You may be able to get the lines on the paint out with a good rubbing compound like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound too.
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Anyone know what the roof rack weight limit happens to be on an R50?
I'm looking at a fabbed roof rack that bolts to the stock roof rack. Probably put gas cans, cooler, tent, ez-up, etc...
The ad shows a guy standing on the rack...I think it may be an FJ.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ptd/4047366423.html
I have the big factory "PATHFINDER" rack, and it says the weight limit is 150 evenly spread pounds IIRC
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When capability is increased by removing factory bling (looking at you step rails)
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I nominate Karmann
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Is anyone else extremely tempted to correct a lot of CL sellers' listed model year? It's so obvious sometimes it hurts.
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Haha! Future plans are a 2" lift with radflo coils, prg uca's and radflo remote res in the back. I also need skid plates underneath and looking at a 30" LED bar on the roof. Looking to make a fairly capable off road cruiser. The truck is stock now with the exception of the incredible duratracs. <br /><br />Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />
Well keep us posted, that thing sounds absolutely incredible!
Anyone changed out bushings in their 4 links?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Just out of curiousity, what is the advantage of Poly bushings? Someone mentioned it feels "tighter" could someone expand?
Also, what is the usual service interval? I have 91k, am I getting close to replacement time?