meangreenmachine

After reading this forum a couple of times i havent been able to find a factory wiring diagram for the amps. I have a 94xe would like to use a diagram to unplug the amps and build a jumper harness for the speakers. Or is this even possible? i have done this on many other vehicles but not sure what they have for inputs but on the ones i have done had a +and- for each speaker in and out. just jumped between the two voila! Ne Help is greatly appreciated.

i have a 3" sl with 32-11.50 pro comps had to trim the fenders to keep them from rubing when turning tightly but it performs awesome off road and is my daily driver.

The psi on the door is for stock pathys under "normal" or should i say suburban driving. Like it has been stated many factors change the ideal amount of pressure you should run. How old are your tires and have you run the same pressure in them the whole time. If so I would look at the wear on them. If they are worn more in the middle than the out sides i would lower the pressure. If they are wearing more on the outsides i would raise it.

got the same prob just have to keep greasing the steering stops.

Your best bet is jgc springs. Use the ones out of the front with a v8. This seems to be the most common and it is the method i used. I then cranked my front t-bars and installed b-joint spacers to correct the alignment. This is not the best method but it is the cheapest. The ideal way is to use aftermarket uca's. Use the search function and you will find tons and tons of info everyone here is very helpful. It is all really very easy. My jgc springs yeilded a full 3" of lift on a 4-door with a spare tire carrier.

I would say it would be fine if you wash it off, a little brake clean maybe. Its not like it has been running in coolant for a long period of time.

would like to get a few people lined up before I order them but I also want to install my b.l. asap so who knows.

yeah I told them that they had to be about 7 1/2" and they told me that was 190 mm so the bolts are long enough. I would be willing to sell them for cost + shipping.

well maybe we can find a few others looking for the same bolts and all go in together and buy them Ill post in the classifieds also

On my 5-door the rear are 12-1.25 and the third is 10-1.25 I found some at my local bolt store (fastenal) but they had to special order them and had to buy a box of each. 25 per box and they want about a buck a bolt. 50$ for 4 bolts that I need no thanks. Maybe if I can find enough others to go in on a buy in I would get them and send them out.

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/me...t=4-7-07014.flv stock manifolds dynomax super turbo no cat and 2 1/2" pipe single out If you want more I can get a sound clip here in my drive way.

I do alignments every day. I have used race strings, laser and the new visualiner from john bean. They are all accurate if done correctly. But all their own downfalls. Race string=do your own math. Lasers=have to be level. Any user errors are also possible. In my opinion take it to someone you can trust (probably not the garage that is advertising cheap alignment specials)

I would definately change the water pump while you are in there. Its behind the t-belt anyway. I had a w.p. go out. Got a new one put it on without putting on a new belt cause I had to work the next morn. New one went out 3 months later. Put another new one (warranty) on with a new belt. Put the belt on a tooth off. Took it back apart to get the t-belt right. Getting pretty good at getting under the timing cover now. ha ha

Glad to hear you finally got it figure out. Did the garage absorb most of the bill?

The rear is what i was talking about ,can you see the hole that it threads through in the rear when the carpet is up? Same story for the one in the front that threads in second one back iirc (maybe third).

what springs did you use. used jgc? one could be weak.

check the t-belt timing

still trying to get bolts together for my b.l. cant seem to get the 4 bolts that thread into the body. For anyone who had done a b.l. can you see where these bolts go from the inside to where I could drill them out and just use longer bolts? Better yet anyone have these four bolts for sale and possibly the bumper relocation brackets. Will post these questions in the parts wanted section.

unhook the throttle cable from the t.b. then i would open the butterflies and let it snap shut. Try to open it again, does it stick? If not than I would check out the throttle cable like 88 said. if the calbe is starting to fray it may bind up or it may just need a good lube.

So i finally got my jgc coils in and adjusted my t-bars happy to report right close to 3" on a 4 door with a spare tire carrier. will post pics when its light out again. Now I need an opinion. Im getting new pro comp 32 11.50 15 mud terrains tomorrow and was wondering if i should use the factory rims that are in pretty good shape or these other ones they are 15-8 with 4" b.s. But im not to fond of the chrome look. But the price was right (freebie) btw thanks to all who have inputed on my pathy so far

if no one can figure anything else out have someone check the t-belt it really sounds like that is the case. You could probably do it yourself everyone here can help walk you through it

How do you know that it is fully charged. A slight over charge or a slight undercharge can render an ac system just about useless. Make sure the condensor is clean of all debris and dirt to maximize efficiency.

116000 but I owned it for 2 years and it only read 112,000. Don't know how long the last owner drove it with a broken speedo. But as far as most know it only has 116000

when my belt was off it started fine revved up fine but It was just simply a pooch. had to kick it down an extra gear to pull my normal hills and the exhaust note wasn't the same.

How far off was your ignition timing when the t-belt was changed? it should have been no more thatn a couple of degrees. If it was off more than the t-belt is probably off. When you adjusted your time you moved it from being in time with the valves to being in time with the crank. The best way to check the t-belt is to remove the upper cover, line up the timing mark on the crank and lower cover and see where your two cam gears line up. If the belt is only a tooth or two off I doubt it will bend a valve. I have done this sssh by accident in a hurry once. usually if you have a bent valve there will be other signs or sounds backfires out the exhaust or intake etc. Id bet money that the belt is off. Won't cost any parts to check just labor. If it was done at a garage they should cover this.