meangreenmachine

Not familiar with the filter design in the pathfinder AT. But one possibility is that the filter is cracked at the neck(if applicable) or come loose or the gasket went. Just something to look for when you have the filter off. The fluid may be sloshing enough to let the trans suck air through the break (or whatever) in the filter.

I would reccomend changing the AT fluid and filter then flushing it followed by a good AT additive ATP makes some pretty good ones.

What happened? Does the engine run? If it runs and has no power after a t-belt job it is most likely that the t-belt is off a tooth. This is from experience.

Well I pulled the codes out today code 33 o2s. So tommorrow I get to battle getting the original one out. I have planned on putting one in and have had it sitting on my toolbox for quite awhile but put it off because the original is rusted in pretty good there are no flats left for the 7/8 wrench. I guess its time for the gas hatchet and my trusty vice-grip! Hopefully this will take care of my no power problem I have found a nice deep puddle to test it out so we shall see.

I used a dynomax ultra flow welded. I bent my own 2.25 pipe and somehow the converter dissapeared during this operation Anyway I am real happy with the sound its pretty loud but not obnoxious.

Here in northeast iowa it is blizzard conditions but I can drive anywhere because I own a pathfider! So im playing in about 8 inches of slush on a main road when my cel comes on and I have no power in the low rpm range. I have a whole new tune up: plugs wires cap rotor air and fuel filters. I noticed while puting exhaust on that the metal insulator on my o2s is loose and slides around. Could water be getting in there and shorting something out? It almost acts like a bad tps or map sensor but it is very intermittent. Thinking back I also had this problem puddle jumping when I first got it but then I tuned it and it hasn't happened since but I haven't really gotten it wet since then. Does the ecu store history codes as the cel comes on then goes out again whenever it feels like.

If you hot wire the fuel pump and you are sure you have spark then you need to check for injector pulse. An easy way to do this is to disconnect one injector (if you have a noid light plug it in and crank it the light should flash if there is signal.) or you can use a test light. one side should have power all the time (with the key in the run position) and the other side should ground while cranking (the light may flicker or light up dimly this is normal. If you have constant power but no ground you have something wrong on the control side like an ignition module (or whatever other electronic device fires the injectors maybe the ecu) if you have ground and no power you have a problem with the feed side of the circuit (relay, fuse or open wire) Hope this helps and happy hunting! By the way is there anything in common with the fuel pump and injectors such as a relay or ecu some ecu's control the injectors and provide a fuel pump on signal (usually to a relay)

Well thanks for the input everybody. I think I will stay with the 31's. Noise is not an issue for me considering my custom exhaust is pretty loud and my k.c. light bar whistles at anything faster than 15mph (anyone else have one and have had the same prob? any fixes?). So I may go to a little more aggressive tire. My work carries codovan tires and I am currently runing wild trac xrs and am going to switch to a wild spirit rvt. Maybe one day I will lift it but I love the way it handles now and I haven't been able to get it stuck yet. I am glad I found a forum with so much info and others who are willing to answer questions (sometimes redundant) so quickly.

Using the search feature I have come to the conclusion that only 31-10.5-15 tires will fit under a stock pathy. But I haven't been able to find out if anyone has tried 31-12.5 or 32-11.5 and had any luck I do not do any serious off roading with a lot of flex. It's my daily driver/family car that I occasionaly take mudding. If any one has tried these on stock pathys please let me know and how bad did they rub if at all.

I bought my gears at the nissan dealership and the sensor from a local parts store. With the vin number the dealer should be able to get you both parts but the sensor is cheaper aftermarket. The gear is only available through nissan. There are lots of different possibilities for the sensor. (length of the shaft mostly) And different tooth counts for the gear. My possibilities for the gear was 17 or 19 I believe. I lost the gear when ordering parts and installed the wrong one first. The gear is held on the sensor by a little snap ring. A good way to make sure the gears mesh is by using some dark grease like red chassis greas smearing it all the way around the new gear (already mounted to the new sensor) install it and spin the output shaft. Re-pull the gear/sensor and see if the drive gear contacted it all the way around.

Did you get your speedo going? I had the same prob. if its like mine the sensor is located on the right side of the transfer case held in with one bolt. It is an electrical and not a mechanical speedo. On mine the sensor locked up and stripped the gear on the sensor. I replaced both the sensor and the gear. Be careful there are different gear sizes and tooth counts make sure you get the right one. Hope this helps.