meangreenmachine

Im assuming you had your ignition timing adjusted and not your t-belt. If your timing is off on your t-belt it will make your ignition timing of also. You can adjust this some by moving the distributor to make the ignition timing correct but your valve timing will still be off.

The t-stat is pretty easy. To fill: I fill the radiator cold. Start it and turn on the heater. Then keep topping off the radiator. You should be able to tell when the t-stat opens, (by watching the temp gauge it should drop) when the cooling system cycles it should let all the air out to the highest point (the filler neck). Then cap it. After the next cool down you will want to check the coolant level but if your overflow was filled up and the cooling system is working properly it should be full.

I had the same problem when i did my own belt. I got a little sloppy and didn't get the marks lined up right so I took it back apart and was like 2 teeth off. It would rev up fine but I had no power unless I was keeping the r's high. I had to pull hills 2 gears lower.

Possibly a stuck blend air door? Can you feel a temp difference if you move the control between hot and cold? Plugged evaporator? Plugged condensor from off roading? How do you know that it is fully charged? Have you put a set of gauges on it? An undercharged or overcharged a/c system will not work efficiently. Man thats a whole lot of questions. Hope it helps

Hey I must have missed your write up on damagereality. I read through the how to's numerous times. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

First you will have to determine what belt is loose If yours has a/c there should be three. You can do this by actually grabbing the belt (with the engine off of course ) the belt should feel firm and tight. Inspect each belt for cracks, heat glazing or anyother damage. If the belt has been slipping for a long time it is probably shot anyways. One belt is for the power steering in my opinion this is the worst one to tighten. You have to loosen the lock nut for the adjustor and the two bolts that it pivots on. One belt is for the A/C. this one is the easiest. Loosen the lock nut right on the idler pulley then above it is an adjustor. Check this pulley it may be shot. I had the same problem on mine. I couldn't find a pulley but the bearing in the pulley is a common one found at any alternator shop. The number is something like a 6305d IIRC. The last belt is for the alt and fan and is adjustable by the alt. Loosen the adjustor lock at the bottom and the pivot at the top. Sorry no pics yet maybe someone else can help with that.

Started to get reasy to install my bl. But I still have a few questions. I figured out the bolt size I need but I don't know what to do about the studs. What comes with the pre-manufactured kit? :confused: The rear bolts are 12-1.25 then there is a stud, oh by the way i broke that one off. Then a 10-1.25 bolt then another stud. The front bolt and nut Im not worried about but what to do about the studs. Also if anyone has a part number for an upper hose it would be great as I will be doing my work in one night at my employers shop. And as little kinks as possible will help a whole lot.

Got any access to a torch? If you can heat up the o2s a little they screw right out.

Well after a few go arounds with the local salvage yard (kept sending me the wrong ones) I finally got the right jgc springs. For financial issues I am going with the ball joint spacers (will replace with uca's at a later date). Did some searching and couldn't find anymore info on running a 3' bl without dropping the radiator. Anyone who has done this can you just unclip the little chunk of shroud at the bottom or do you have to trim. I plan on installing an electric fan but at a later date like this summer. Also has anyone run across a part number for an upper hose (to fit a lift)

If you have 12 volts on the little wire in the crank position and 12 volts on the big one it sounds like you should get the starter tested like govols said. Another possibility maybe that you have a bad cell in your battery. It can give you 12 volts but 0 cca! May want to check that before you pull starter.

I've heard of that but I guess i never thought of using it (till now) Does any one know the sizes of the 10 body mount bolts. From what I've read there are 6 sae and 4 metric. Any one know the actual size and thread pitch and length of the stock ones. This el cheapo bl might just work so I can put more mony into the sl. Are the ball joint spacers really worth a damn or shuld I just forget about them altogether and go with the uca's? Remember money is tight!

I did, got a lot of mixed info. I didn't see much for figures. I am on an extremely tight budget I do all work myself. I also have very limited internet access so searching for hours and comparing prices is kinda hard for me and I know alot of you others have had lots of experiece with sl and bl of pathy's. Sorry for such a repetative subject.

Just wondering where the best value bodylift kits have been purchased. Also the best place to get new uca's for the suspension lift.

The torque converter is the link that transfers power between the transmission and the engine. During normall operation there is a little slip "stall". To get an easy idea how it works picture too fans facing each other turn one on and it will spin the other one, only at a slightly slower speed. Same principle only with fluid in a torque converter. To get maximum efficiency out of the converter in high gear the converter will "lock up" eliminating the slip. With bad fluid or other transmission problems (bad converter) the converter clutch can chatter when it goes into lockup. Steping on the gas at highway speeds will kick the converter out of lock up. If you still haven't done it I would get the trans flushed. It is a good preventative maintenance and you can look for any other problems (grindings) in the pan. Hope this helps

Sounds like converter clutch chatter. I don't know if these trans take a special fluid or not but if they do you need to make sure you have the right one. Also if your fluid is too the additives will start to break down and could cause some problems. I think your best bet will be to pput a filter kit in flush it then refill it that way you know what fluid is in, it how fresh it is, how full it is and if there was any evidence of other trans problems (grindings in the pan).

Sounds like a lifter to me. I did a t-belt not too long ago in a hurry. Double checked it put it together and it had no power. Turns out I was either 1 or 2 teeth off. But it didn't make any noise.

Did you drop the pan or do you mean on your dipstick? Metal filings won't show up on the dipstick unless its extremely bad. The best way to check is to drop the pan. Black deposits (unless excessive) in the pan is normal. There should be no metal shavings/chunks or nor any brass. I wouldn't recommend cleaning the filter I would just replace it. Your in there anyway.

Definately check the starter connections and voltages. Also you may have a bad cell in your battery.

Manuals last longer as they are not being engaged by the axle spining and locking them in.

Well my memory served me wrong. The o2s was in good enough shape to get a wrench on but the o2s bung was just about rotted away. I didn't think there was much material left for the threads but with a little finesse and some patience I was able to heat it up and get the old one out! I used an ac delco universal sensor. Screwed right in. Connected the wires and out for a test drive. Hit every piece of slush snow or puddle I could find for about 30 min. No hesitation or cel :cool2: The old sensor had broke right where the three wires go in. I could pull the piece of metal up and see the three wires where the were connected to the sensor. Slush or water must have been getting in there and the only thing I can think of is that it shorted betweeen the heater and sensor signal.

A slight deposit of grayish/blackish material is from clutch discs. Normal as long as it isn't excessive especially if the fluid has never been changed. Have a shop change the filter and flush the tranny. This is a normall preventative maintanence procedure and just about any shop should be able to do this. Then I reccomend using an additive (if your shop has some you can use theirs or add some on your own later.) Also I don't have a nissan AT but so they take a special fluid such as nissanmatic? If so make sure that the correct fluid is used if not you can get all sorts of nasty chatters, vibrations and harsh/slipped shifts.

Unless the pathy AT is different the pump wont suck from one line but it will pump out one.

You can watch the color change by watching it as it comes out the hose. But agreed it can be messy if inexperienced and also its not good to run it dry.

Do you have rubber lines going to the fuel filter if so you can tee in a fuel pressure gauge there. It sounds to me like the fuel pump went out. Running it low on fuel gets the fuel pump hot and can take them out. Also if a fuel pump gets worn out it can draw excessive amperage and pop fuses.

At work that is the only way I flush trannys (disconnect and let the pump do the work).