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I had another look under the car this afternoon. Carrier portions look very similar, but the covers would not be able to swop between the two diffs. Is the H233 a third member setup and the C200 the carrier in the pumpkin with just a back plate/cover? As far as I can figure, I have C200 back and front. A few years ago I purchased a lockrite unit, and only realised when it arrived, it was not for my diff. The Autralian guys just assumed I had the H233 as this is how the D21 was released over there. My question is more about what can be used in the front diff where the direction of the drive does mot matter. In other words, if I found a 2wd Hardbody of the same year with a locker or LSD in the rear, would I be able to build the traction control device onto my existing crownwheel. Excuse my layman's terminology, this is all new to me. Closest I have got to working on a diff, was to remove the cover to replace the cover seal that was leaking. I already have another daunting task ahead of me with my H260. It has a leaking pinion seal that I need to do. The seal is purchased and laying on the corner if my desk for a few months now. I've just been petrified to do it and possibly mess something up. Kinda hoping for a windfall so I can pay someone the big money to replace the seal. But the guys are wanting to charge me more than I paid for the diff. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. I should have clarified my setup. I raped a 1980-83 MQ UTE, actually called a Safari here in South Africa. Sorry, but this is the best pucture I can find on my phone. It think its the same as the rear diff that my 97 Hardbody came with. Both are open and 4.88 ratio. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

I have a question for the gurus, if I may.... Firstly, that diff does look like the C200. I have it on the rear of my 2.7td Hardbody Stationwagon with 4.88 gearing. I was also told it was LSD and even filled it with LSX oil when I changed oil after a drowning. Turns out it a open diff. But I'm now busy with some mods, I have a C200 from a Patrol installed in the front and going with the H260 MQ Patrol heavy duty in the rear. Now for the question, will a LSD carrier be a straight fit into my C200 diff in the front? Is there any problem with the direction the front diff runs. What gets changed? and do I have to look at things like spline counts of side shafts, or am I complicating things. Why I ask, is I know the H260 has an awesome LSD and feel my wallet can't support a locker. I have been told by some Australian guys that my best option would be to go with a locker in the front with the LSD rear. I think I stand a better chance of finding a C200 LSD than locker. Besides a very expensive ARB unit, my only other option is a local brand that is known to break ....Hence my questions. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Took my SAS'd South African Pathy for its first long run (180km), after doing a castor correction from 1,5 to 7deg. Not overly impressed and have now got death wobble from 70km upward. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

How much gearing are you prepared loose? I have a 97 d21 diesel and running 33s caused havoc with my gearing. Fuel consumption has gone to hell along with any meaningful pull away. Now adding a second transfer case to at least double my gearing off road. Mine is on a SFA so I don't have the other problems Nissan has on offer with bigger rubber, and that would be the Inferior Front Suspension. Expect to eat TREs, ball joints and idler arms. Just on 31"s my problems started. Got to a point that I bent something so bad that the insurance wrote the car off. Thats when I took to it with a grinder and started the SFA. I would limit the D21 to 31" rubber. Anything bigger you are also in for bigger rims and possibly spacers. Not sure whats on offer in your country, but here, anything bigger than 31s go to 12,5" wide. So now you looking for 8,5j minimum up to 10j would be best. Then you start looking to cause problems with your wheel bearings as well. Bigger rubber also adds a lot of strain to your tension rod bushings, and will oval out the buckets on the chassis side. Just my 2cents. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

I had similar problem on my 2,7TD. Replaced starter and within a week it was doing it again. Had another spare starter that did it as well. Auto electrician said the problem is that our cabling is getting old and can't carry the current needed anymore. He installed a relay at the starter that does the switching instead of it happening at your key. Problem solved and all three the starters work perfect after that. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Lifting the left front would drop the right rear. Turn it down or lift the right front. Check that you are running with even spacing between the bump stops, and that they are still in one piece. Mine broke off and I was using the metal bits to bump into for a while. Its always been a mystery to me why Nissan did the tank to one side like that. Here in Africa the driver also sits on that side. So you have a constant loading of driver and fuel on one side of the vehicle. To make it worse for me, I am doing a SFA with Patrol MQ drivetrain bits. My (African) driver side will sport the driver, transfer case, drive shafts and right drop diffs. I have removed the tank now, and looking to relocate to the other side once the exhaust has also been moved. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Pictures and video, or it did not happen[emoji6] [emoji13] Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

NEVER under estimate the capabilities of the Nissans. No matter how soft they look. Its usually the driver that is the limiting factor. Seen this many times. Also seen guys do stuff with the Pathy I feel can be classified as abuse, but then I probably can often be classed as an abuser myself. Its all good fun. Mine is my daily drive, so I kinda take good care of it, well I try. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Me thinks you heard me saying its cr@p, not my intention at all, sorry. Not saying its soft either, just stating that your options for after market additions for the rough and ready "overkill" stuff we like to add, is being limited. Then your vehicle testing every so often puts a further damper on what you can or can not do. I would be very apprehensive to take to your vehicle with a welder, where as my old D21 has spent many hours under a grinder and welder. My concerns is around the limitations of recovery options. You seem to be experienced enough to do things within limits and keep yourself and bystanders safe, the next guy who purchases that vehicle from you one day, may be a total idiot. Gets himself dead with a shackle and half a bumper through his head. I apologise if I offended you[emoji15] [emoji111] Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Hence my question as to whats available and how to attach to a unibody. What do the "professionals" say. Was there an ARB or something available and how do they mount. I love my Nissans, and will do most anything to defend them, but I'm starting to think that the R50 is a softroader, and probably now understand why Nissan did not release it in our country as a 4x4 workhorse like the Hardbody and Patrol. We would probably have broken them here. Please don't think I am disrespecting your ride, quiet the contrary, I would have loved one of those in my driveway. I have always liked the station wagon. Nissan did nothing more than the Terrano2 and Patrol here. Hence an outside company jumping in and purchasing double cab Hardbodies and converting them to the station wagon that I have. But Nissan bought them out and shut the opperation down just before the Terrano2 was released. I think I have one of about 2000 of these MK3 models ever made in the just more than a year they were available. Personally I think you need to seek some professional advise regarding possible load forces and how to attach the kit to the Pathy. Also pretty sure that the aftermarket guys would have something available. I see you guys have strict regulations that you have to comply with. Here we are basically left to our own conscience. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

On my pintel type, I do mild pulls, never a tug. On snatches, I bridel my two 16mm points together to share the load between the two chassis members and pull a safety harness from the pintel to the the snatch strap. Front I also have two 16mm extensions from the chassis that carry my suspension as well. Full cross member welded to across the chassis and further anchored around 150mm deep down the chassis members. But where to attach these type of recovery points to a unibody?? Or do you just not EVER get stuck, lol. Here my tow bar and one of the 16mm points.... Excuse my grandson playing under the car, not easy to entertain a ten year old while you are working. Has the Pathy got place for mounting bolts to attach something substantial to it. In a mud bog situation, you can easily exert three times your cars weight on those points to get it unstuck. Snatching then adds another vehicle's forces and momentum to that. I'm paranoid and don't believe you are ever strong enough on a recovery point. We had a case here a few years back where a recovery hook came off a cruiser. Ripped out the chassis with bolts and all. Proceeded to come off the recovery strap, fly across to the next obstacle where it virtually amputated a forum members leg where he innocently stood watching the action. It came from behind him, he did not even see it coming. One moment he was standing, the next he had his feet knocked from under him. Hospitalised and eventually lost his job. Took two years to get back to "normal". Life changing stuff, and I pray I am never part of, or contributor, to something like that. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Here in South Africa we NEVER use a hitch as a recovery point. Not sure what your ratings and construction is. Here we use the 50mm ball. These things are prone to ripping off there bolts. Becomes a super projectile on the end of a snatch strap. Will go through your windscreen and take you head off. Not sure what your options are on a unibody setup. Just my 2 cents from over the pond. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Oops, my pics did not post. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

My 97 D21 Hardbody got its SFA last year to a C200 MQ Patrol axle. I think the Pathy steering box setup is the same as mine. I simply fabricated the standard tierod ends from the Hardbody to a steering link from the steering box to a custom bracket on the kingpin housing. I did however cut and change the angle of my standard steering pitman arm. But this was due to a SOA that gave me a 7" lift. Not sure if this helps as we never had that Pathfinder in our country and how similar our setups are. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

You don't mention ratios your rig runs now and what the D30 runs. I found that a cheap Dana was going to work out a lot more by the time I found a re gear kit and someone to install it. Then, as mentioned before, wheels and lug patterns. How does the D30 compare track wise to your rig. Can you fix teack width with wheel spacers or offset wheels and how does that affect you scrub radius and Ackerman angle. This is just some questions I had to answer for myself when I did my 97 D21 Hardbody SAS. I have no idea how your rig compares, so take my input lightly. I ended up using a Nissan axle and still got things horribly wrong. Post progress pics please. I love watching these Nissans grow up to SFA. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

The problem I have had with the LED globes, is that the cooling fan setup on them does not take kindly to water, and definitely not mud. One mud bog and you dont make it back home if you driving back at night. Halogen globes you can seal up and you have no rubbish hanging off them like HID or LED globes have. I sported a set LED globes for three days. The first time I needed lights, they cooked in a few minutes because the fans were bogged in mud. All this fandangle electrickery is just a pain when you actually use your vehicle for what it was built for, and you need that reliability so you are not stuck next to the road at some stooopid hour. Our vehicles are already fairly high, and now mine with a 7" lift and headlights at 1,2 meter off the ground, I can't keep my lights out of the rear windows and mirrors of people driving in front of me. To add the frustration of crappy beam patterns to this, I'm going to have people getting physical with me. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Mine not strictly a pathfinder, but 33x12,5x15 Since that pic was taken, the wheels have been rattled to machine grey. Running HT tires, but wanting to get my Khumo KL71s back on and go to 10J wheels at the same time. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Axles from MQ Patrol. Picked it up for a good price and stripped a C200 out for the front and a H260 for the rear. When we were looking at Dana axles, we had a problem with matching ratios with my 4.88 that was on the car already. By keeping with Nissan, and getting a matching set, I also got the bolt pattern on the wheels the same. Purchased that Patrol for less than a Dana was going to cost me before I even started looking to re gear. The car originally came with the C200 in the rear, so to put the same axle in the front counts for a nice upgrade. The axles are however right hand drop where my old Nissan was a left hand drop. The rear is also right drop and not centre as my van came out with. So we are adding the MQ Patrol transfer case behind my original gearbox and transfer to get to the right drop needed and score gearing closer to crawler gears for off road. The ride is not bad. Actually softer than we had on the IFS that was turned up a bit high on the torsions, maybe a bit bumpy though. Total lift between suspension and tires is 8". So I have some stability issues on the pavement at the moment. Looking at way stiffer shocks, a sway bar and possibly even a panhard rod to tighten it all up. We stil got a long way to go. Rear axle is still laying im the workshop. Its my daily driver and I am unemployed, so money is tight. I was "forced" into the SFA when I bent the IFS so bad that we should have scrapped the vehicle. Oh, and thats not a Greatdane, its a Jack Russel[emoji1] . Here you can compare size with a standard Land Cruiser. But it stands out in the crowd. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Hey, I by accident came across the forum again when my phone and Tapatalk decided to log me in here....I lost/forgot about this after a pc crash and just never got back here. I know this is an ancient thread and it went dead, but seeing as I am here, and I'm slightly bored right now, here is what happened to mine. The SAS was forced on me by Murphy when I bent the IFS and portion of the chassis with a tad too much momentum. Its still work in progress. Took three weeks of grinding and weldibg and many fittings to get the front end in. If there is interest, I will tell the story with in more gory detail[emoji12] Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Think my balls are too small , I go over this process again and again and know it’s the best thing to do, but it's also my daily drive and I can't go without it for the time that it will take. On top of that, I have hardly worked for two years now and budget is a big factor. I came across a set of diffs the other day at good price, and they were 4.88 ratio, perfect match, but outside my pockets capability . Front was a Dana 25 with disk brake conversion and the rear was the Dana40. No lockers, but hey, can only be better than the Nissan IFS setup.

Good to see these kinda of comments, makes sense, but I would have been the person that also just welded it from end to end without thinking of fine tuning later.

How do you guys match diff ratio with the rear. Do you re gear or are you able to get the correct ratio supplied off the bat. I run 4.88 at the moment and here in South Africa I can't seem to find anything better than around a 4.1. Now I am looking for a scrapped Jeep where I can get the front and rear along with the wheels to match the 5 stud setup. I am worried about going to long on the gearing as I feel I would rather be going slower/crawling and the 2.7TDiesel has not got a lot of power. Just got my hands on a divorced transfer case, so that may sort out my off road gearing by running two transfers behind each other.

This is where I am at. My tension rod rubbers are shot again because the "buckets" where they seat in on the chassis have started causing problems, the hole in the chassis where the shaft goes through has gone oval in a big way. I feel my steering is getting sloppy again, so it's time to replace my draglink bushes. I did this conversion (yellow circle) to try and get some extra mileage out of the steering. Tie rods were done about 6 months back, but probably need to be checked again along with the ball joints.

Oh, I'm loving this thread. I get asked constantly why I still drive that piece of old junk. How can expect a 16 year old thing to not cost me money. How can afford to keep such an old thing on the road...... Here you guys are with all the answers, and I don't feel so alone any more. Here is ZA we do not have emission restrictions and I can get away with a lot more stuff than you guys can (although we don't because I think we are too conservative or just lack the ball size). My Truck is based on the 1995 WD21 you guys had in the US. 70% of the body was not even built by Nissan, but by a coach building company and is made of a composite fibreglass, carbon fibre and resin mix. So I can add the point to the list that mine also does not rust . Then they want to tell me that without all the cats and DPF and modern gadgets, my truck is no good for the environment. Well guess what, the modern car is designed to be recycled every 5 years. Each new car creates a lovely sized carbon footprint. So I have had mine for 16 years, that is 2 new cars carbon footprints I have saved the world of. I have recycled my vehicle twice now with no additional damage to the planet. Besides that, I periodically run (when it works) HHO. On top of that I run my diesel on old cooking oil, recycled from the corner fast food joint. You want to test my exhaust and see how bad my truck is for mother earth. You are in for a big surprise. I have actually spent time in a closed garage with my truck running, and besides building an appetite from burning the old cooking oil, I'm very much alive and well. My fuel consumption is not too bad at just under 10Km to the litre. Truck's paid for and actually has a tool box in the back that I can use on it. My brother-in-law has one of these new fan dangle Jeeps that only came with one tool, roadside assist and maintenance plan. My truck was not the one that caused pandemonium on a steep 15km mountain pass going downhill when the auto levelling system decided to pull the rear wheels so deep into the wheel arches that they could not even turn any more (Discovery3). I also love my truck to bits, he has personality, I understand him and know exactly what and where to look for problems when he "groans". I have had him for 7 years now and not once been mad at myself for buying him. My dirty old man....