drewp29

The KYB part #'s are different for the 96-99 and the 00-04. Not sure what is different, whether it is valving, tube diameter, mounting differences, or all of the above. I'll see what I can do with the camber visually and with the camber bolts, but I might end up slotting the hole if I can't get it aligned.

I was extremely interested in the Koni insert mod, but since they don't make the Koni's for the 00-04 Pathy's, then that's out. rocky2 - when you elongated the top hole on the strut, did you in turn also use the camber bolts? I agree the SFD is a great option as well, and it very well could be something I do in the next couple of years. For the time being, I think the AC lift will serve me well, and once upgrade-itis sets in again I'm sure my OCRD (Obsessive Compulsive Research Disorder . . . true story :-) ) will be in full swing. I still need to upgrade the sound system. Only the front two speakers play at this point since the previous owner obviously had an aftermarket deck and when reinstalling the stock deck only hooked up the fronts. It's okay though, I would have re-done the stereo regardless. A big thanks to everyone in this forum for the knowledge and help! The camera phone will definitely get a workout - I'll let you know how it goes!

Nope, not baiting . . . I generally agree with everything you have said, and I appreciate it too . I looked at it this way, I had to do springs and dampers, so the cost right there for a stock refresher was enough to warrant the upgrade to the 2" lift. I considered the increased angle of the CV joints, and was already going to do the manual hubs for the gas mileage increase, so it simply kills two birds with one stone. I am however, very interested in the strut extension you had posted in your thread - the modified version. That would eliminate the top out issue. I think I can handle the CV issue, and the need for camber bolts. You have a lot of great ideas, and the means to accomplish them, which is admirable. And given the lack of aftermarket support for our R50s, I think it is AWESOME!

Alright, alright, alright . . . enough of my dilly-dallying around already! I'm finally pulling the trigger on the AC 2" lift. After reading many a post by rocky2 about the cons of the 2" suspension lift, and weighing the pros and cons written on my yellow legal pad, I have decided it's time to get this party started. I've needed tires for awhile. I'm not down to the carcass yet, but the el-cheapo Prodigy HT tires that were on the vehicle when I purchased it have little tread life left, and are absolutely el-crapo in the snow and ice. Enter the Treadwright Sentinel B2B, 265/75R16 (31.6" O.D.) - www.treadwright.com/p-58-265-75r16-sentinel-b2b-a-t-d.aspx Now before you say - eeeeew a retread, I have done an exorbitant amount of research on these, and I have a buddy who runs the Guard Dogs and absolutely loves them. The Sentinels are a Dueler AT Revo clone, which should suit my driving situation well. I debated the Warden, a BFG AT clone, but I like the fact the Sentinel is new rubber from bead to bead. Along with the bigger tires - new rims!: Mickey Thompson Classic II - http://www.tirepackage.com/Wheels/Classic-II-Alloy-Wheel-by-Mickey-Thompson.aspx?t_c=11&t_s=210&t_pt=100039&t_pl=2892&t_pn=M%2fT368412 The backspacing should be about right, and I think they'll look good too. I decided on the AC 2" lift, mostly because I'd like a little extra lift, and I need new springs and dampers regardless. A SFD is still on the table for the future, but I can't spend the extra for it right now. I went with the Bilstein rear dampers from 4x4parts and KYB Excel-G struts from partsgeek. I had a few other items in my partsgeek order (camber bolts, strut mounts, brake master cylinder, front sway bar bushings, etc.), as well as the Mile Marker manual hubs from 4x4parts. I just e-mailed NX4 about ordering the 1" top mount strut spacer, so hopefully I'll have that in time as well. I think that about covers it. P.S. The sway bar bushings are a necessity, I have a rattle in the front that is more prevalent when the articulation of one wheel is greater than the other, and the sway bar has noticeable play when I yank on it. HOPEFULLY they solve the problem. I also have new tie rod ends, sway bar links, and various other suspension components for a refresher.

Wicked dude, nice work!

Is that just 1" galvanized electrical conduit? Nice Idea!

Yes, that would be best, except at $240 for the cylinder assembly, I can buy almost 4 of the ones I am looking at. I hadn't checked before you mentioned it, but dang, that's just too expensive. I realize I am replacing a part of the safety system, but I just can't accept that the Nissan part is 4 times better than aftermarket.

I'll get my VIN this evening, thanks!

I need to replace my brake master cylinder on my 02 Pathy, and I was wondering which brand I should go with? Also, how do I tell if my vehicle is VDC equipped? The MCs I have been looking at either say with DCS or without, which I assume is the Nissan VDC. Any help here is appreciated! Thanks!

Doh! Looks like Koni doesn't make them for the 00-04 Pathy . . . BOO

I am very interested in attempting this! How did it finally work out for you rocky2? I had a plan all figured out, but haven't moved at all on it. One if the things that was a bit of a worry was the topping out issue, which this should ultimately solve! More than damper longevity I think the clunking would get to me and I would go crazy. The adjustablility of the Koni inserts might be a good and bad thing, because I do like to fiddle with things. I too am surprised that no one here at NPORA has found a suitable alternative strut with a longer stroke, considering the top out issue is almost always addressed when people are looking to (or already have) install a lift. I am not sure I want to attack a SFD yet, but eliminating the top out would be great! I actually need to get started ordering parts since winter is upon us and I desperately need new tires, so since I am going to go bigger I'll need the lift at the same time.

I actually looked at a number of 4Runners before ultimately deciding I liked the Pathfinder better. I grew up with Nissans, and we have always had success with them. We've had several Maximas from 87-91, Stanzas from 84-92, my parents currently own 2 '95 240sx, and now I have the Pathfinder. Of all the vehicles my family has owned, with exception of the '92 Toyota Camry with a little over 300k on the odometer, the Nissans have outlasted the rest with really only maintenance work. I have 210k on my Stanza and after I figure out this electrical gremlin I expect it will last well into the high 200's. The limited aftermarket support is a little disconcerting but at least we have communities like NPORA to help with the details as well as a number of skilled craftsman to give us a few more options. If we relied on the big name companies we'd be much more limited! I'm currently in the same boat you are, but I'm keeping a positive outlook because I'd rather drive a Nissan than a Jeep or Toyota, not that there is anything wrong with either of those.

I am not sure why the part number XPLORx4 gave for the 5100 series is different, though his comment about valving is true. The 255/70 valving on his 5150 series may be different than the ones snow4me received from 4x4parts which could result in an unpredictable ride in the rear. However, no one on these forums that has purchased the 5100 Bilsteins from 4x4parts seems to have any complaints, so perhaps the valving is correct for the ones they sell. I guess the only way to determine the valving on the 24-185509 would be to ask Bilstein . . .

Cool, thanks for posting! Always good to have a visual . . .

Lol, yeah it was like a bow & arrow!

Holy Shnikes Batman! So I got out to the garage today to grease my driveshafts and u-joints, hoping they would calm down the vibration issue I have had recently and I exploded the newly purchased grease gun. They had barely tightened the handle that you pull back to load the grease tube, and I had already taken the front cap off, so as I was pulling back I gave a little twist and KAPOW I shot the plunger to the other side of the garage! After wasting an hour putting it back together due to my jacked up right wrist I finally got the tube loaded and got under the Pathy. I was looking around and I noticed the connection for the front driveshaft to the front differential only had 3 out of 4 bolts present! Luckily I have some Grade 8 hardware laying around and found the right size bolt. I tightened it up and greased everything up and everything rides SMOOTH now! I think the main difference is the bolt, but the greasing can't have hurt either. I seriously thought the vibration was the rear diff given the state it is in, but looks like my first thought that it was the front driveshaft was spot on. I didn't notice it missing the last time I was under there, but the bolr was probably on top and out of view. Anyway . . . I am extremely happy that DAMN vibration is gone now!

Yeah 4x4parts price is actually quite good for those. So I'll probably order them and the springs at the same time. The GR2 (Excel-G) are a bit more expensive than other places, so I'll get those elsewhere.

I was actually talking about the rims, Thompson tires are a bit outside my self designated price range. I really like the reviews and the look of the Duratracs as well - congrats on yours! @snow4me - Interesting when I search that Bilstein part number it shows it for a Ford Ranger with 4" of lift. Those are the ones you have on your Pathy? Man I would have never found those by searching! Thanks!

Cool, I wonder if it is dependent on the specific rim? I have read a few posts that some people successfully ground their caliper to stop rubbing on the rim. I'd like to stay away from that, not that there's anything really wrong with it, I just want to err on the side of caution when it comes to safety equipment. I do like the rim/tire selection better for 15s.

So if I am reading the chart correctly then 10mm offset is ~4 7/8" BS on an 8" wide rim? Hmmm . . . things to think about then. I do kinda like the Mickey Thompsons, but that broadens the range quite a bit if those work for you!

What's the backspacing on those wheels XPLORx4? Just curious . . .

Really? From what I read in this THREAD it seems iffy. Let me know if I am incorrect on this. Thanks!

Awesome! Thanks!

So I think I finally have a good plan for upgrading (and fixing . . . lol) the Pathy. Let me know what you think. Fixes and upgrades in order of completion: Purchase used rear axle assembly. I haven't pulled the trigger on this yet because things have been crazy busy lately. Anyway, I plan to pull the rear differential out, get to know it intimately by taking it apart and putting it back together several times . . . checking backlash and engagement each time. Once I am comfortable with the process I'll pull my current crappy rear diff and steal some friction plates and friction discs. I'm thinking 2 of each per side if it won't be too tight, opinions on that are welcome. Add them to the new (used) diff and put it back in old housing for a tighter, more off road capable set-up. Warn manual hubs. I have the stock 16" 6 spoke SE wheels so I'll put these straight on when I get them. AC 2" lift coils from 4x4parts.com. I had originally considered the OME lift package from Rocky Road, but after comparing pictures of lift height I definitely like the 'little bit extra' look of the AC over the EMUs. KYB Excel-G struts and Bilstein or KYB Gas-A-Just rear dampers. I'd prefer 5100 series Bilsteins but don't know what the part number is with 2" lift. If anyone knows and would post it that would be excellent! I'd rather buy them separately from the coils from somewhere other than 4x4parts. Rims - Mickey Thompson Classic II - LINKY It sucks trying to find rims I like that A. Have ~ -3.75" BS, B. Won't break the bank, and 3. Are 16" rims to fit over the front calipers. There's a ton in 15" diameter, but 16" rims get little to no love. Anyone know if the MT Classic IIs will work with the Warn hubs? Tires - Falken Rocky Mountain LT265/75R16 - LINKY I've read some really positive reviews on these, and for the price I don't know if they can be beat. So, there's the plan. Obviously with the lift I'll replace strut mounts, etc. and other necessary items for the other upgrades as well. Thanks for reading!

Looks to be in great condition. The price doesn't seem to be high if it were in Colorado, but I do not know what they go for in the New England states. Actually, that price from a dealer would be on the low end around here given the condition (appears to be excellent, but who knows). Most '02-'04 Pathys with that mileage would go for 9-11 grand around here from a dealer. I paid $6250 out the door for my '02 with 150k miles and some issues I knew about (scratches/dents, etc.) I did not know I would be replacing the rear end . . . but it was worth given the rest I looked at over a period of ~9 months were all automatic transmissions and 3-5 grand higher in price. Mine is the SE as well.