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drewp29

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Everything posted by drewp29

  1. So apparently the salvage yard mangled the clutch when they removed the transmission from the engine, so I had to buy a clutch kit. Went with the good old Exedy OEM kit from Rock Auto. RA wanted $191, which is the cheapest I could find it and as a bonus, next day express shipping was only 24 bones! Can't really beat that! It sucks that I had to replace the clutch, but at least I know this one is good for a few hundred thousand miles. Mine was pretty much toast, which I knew beforehand since it was on my list of things to do - it has been slipping slightly. Not bad enough to be needed immediately, but enough to be noticeable. I am also going to replace the rear thermostat and a few other things that are a pain to replace later.
  2. After looking at various u-joints for awhile, here is what I have determined for my truck. Remember, this is for a 4wd manual transmission 2002. Here is what I gather based on a few different websites info: Rear DS both joints: Outer Snap Rings - Cap Diameter (both): 1.063 (or 1.062) inches Axis 1 and 2 (or sometimes referred to as Snap Ring Length): 3.22 inches (3.219" also) Front DS both joints: Inner Snap Rings - Cap Diameter (both): 1.063 (or 1.062) inches Axis 1 and 2 (or sometimes referred to as Snap Ring Length): 1.93 inches If the above is correct, then the Spicer 5-1310-1X (greasable) or Spicer 5-1310X (non-greasable) will work for the rears even though a handful of websites do not list it as working. For the fronts, the Spicer version is pretty specific to Nissan, and would be part number 5-3218X. Too bad there is no Spicer Life part for the front, as the seals are considered to be the best on the SPL series. I could also do Moog/Precision which would be part 280 (greasable super strength) or part 269 (non-greasable super strength) for the rear DS and part 446 for the front DS. The AC-Delco parts 45U0145 (non-greasable) and 45U0111 (greasable) look to be identical to the Moog and are probably made by Precision so they are the same parts. I'm pretty much set on the Spicer 5-1301-1X for the rears and 5-3218X for the fronts, but the Moog/Precision are intriguing because the rears use a flush mounted needle zerk fitting. Could also do the GMB 220-0046 for the front, but do not know much about GMB and their quality. Oh, I did read the thread you linked as well during my 8 hour web search last night, lol. That was actually the link I posted, but apparently I linked page 2.
  3. After I get the truck back from the mechanic I plan on changing out the U-joints on both front and rear shafts. If I am reading the 2002 manual correctly, as well as this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25609-spicer-u-joints-vs-oem-nissan/page-2 it looks like with the manual transmission I have outer snap rings on the rear driveshaft and inner snap rings on the front driveshaft. When looking up parts on Rock Auto they are saying the rear in Heavy Duty series should be the Spicer part number 5-1310-1X. This u-joint has outer snap rings, which is consistent with the manual, however, Amazon says this joint is for the front driveshaft? Amazon may be incorrect, but looking it up on the Spicer site: http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/dek350.aspx says the 'Spicer Life' version is 5-1310X and it is for the front driveshaft, so maybe Rock Auto is incorrect? However, if you look up the 5-1310X (should be the same dims as the 5-1310-1X) joint on Amazon, it says that one is for the rear shaft? The rear on the Spicer site says they are 5-1505X. I am having difficulties determining what series the 5-1505X joints are actually from, as I would like to find a Heavy Duty version, and Rock Auto lists this part number as a Standard Replacement. I've looked on several other sites and they are all over the place on what does or does not fit, so I am thoroughly confused. Can anyone give me dimensions for the front and rear joints? If I had my vehicle I take my calipers and measure those biznatches. It shouldn't be this difficult, right?!!
  4. They varied between 24 and 40 apiece. All 4 were about $130 total. So depending on which sensor you need it could be the cheaper option. I basically went to Rock Auto and looked up the part numbers for the specific sensors, then chose the ones on eBay that were the cheapest NIB options. I know there are 2 different sellers that have the same price within 1 cent of each other. The other seller should still have the one I didn't buy.
  5. http://forums.nicoclub.com/post6517435.html?hilit=swirl#p6517435 ^check this forum thread out.
  6. I have read that people have had good results with the NAPA Maxdrive new CVs, but I personally went with Raxles. The NAPA are made by A1 Cardone, and the new axles have a limited lifetime warranty. NAPA is good about replacing them. Once you have taken them off a few times it becomes easy to change them. I can get both sides on and off in about an hour now, but the first time took me probably 2 hours a side. The Raxles are nice, and I like their joint design, but they are expensive. I think I paid $180 each a few years ago. If I had it to do over again I would probably just go with the NAPA axles for ease of replacement if anything went wrong.If you reserve the axles online you can get them for $72 each. Without knowing what eBay product you are referencing, it is difficult to give an honest answer to the quality...
  7. So I made some good deal purchases on eBay and PlanetMagnaflow! I picked up all (4) O2 sensors, the upstream are NTK and the downstream are Denso, for $130 shipped. At about 33 bucks each it was a deal I couldn't pass up. They should be here Friday. I also picked up both primary catalytic converters from Planet Magnaflow. I went with the more expensive OEM series since I want them to last as long as possible. They have a popup on their site that nets you a 20% discount if you spend over $250. Input your e-mail and they send the code to you. So both cats cost a total of $537, which is a pretty good discount of about $138. The company on eBay neglected to get in touch with me, so they lost out. My thoughts are they aren't an authorized dealer, but as a shop they can order directly from Magnaflow so they sell them as well. I'm not going to take the chance at ordering a part that could fail within the warranty period and have no recourse for getting a new one except purchasing a new cat. Not worth saving maybe 50 dollars. Looking forward to having the Pathy back in my possession soon!
  8. Now that I'm looking for it again, the only one I can find is for model year 2001. I could swear I remember back when i bought my '02 that the Service Bulletin mentioned '01-'02 Pathfinders with a recurring P0430 or P0420 code. If it didn't, oh well, it never had any effect on the vehicle so I didn't worry about it. So now that I am REALLY thinking about it, after having looked at the Service Bulletin, I am most likely going to replace the cats.I found a place on eBay that seems legit that has good prices on the Magnaflow, but I am checking with them to make sure they are an authorized dealer.
  9. The best mileage I have seen was driving to Winter Park and back to go downhill mountain biking. Filled the tank before leaving town, got back just as the gas light came on and filled it at the same station. I averaged 23mpg. My best friend has a 2010 (I think) 4Runner and he couldn't believe it. He said the best he has gotten on the same trip was right around 19 mpg. It probably helped that the drive home is mostly downhill, but evens out on the drive up I suppose. That's with Shell Premium 91 octane though, which I find gets the best mileage for sure even if it is 25 cents more per gallon than the other stations. So, I am getting closer to the swap, my mechanic should be getting both pallets today. I have some items I am still waiting for in the mail, so it will be a couple days. I have another thought though. My truck has had a P0430 and P0420 code thrown since I bought it 6 years ago. I know Nissan has a Service Bulletin out to change the ECU firmware and adjust the O2 sensor range values, but the codes never had any effect on the driveability of the truck, and as apparent with the gas mileage, the O2 sensors were likely just fine. I had my girlfriend's brother hook it up to a super expensive code reader when I first got it and we watched the values for awhile while idling and under load. The sensors were responding correctly so I did not care to have to deal with the Stealership to try to convince them that the programming is free according to the NSB. Since my truck burned quite a lot of oil over it's lifetime, I am considering replacing the primary catalytic converters just to do it while it is easy to get to the bottom bolts. I have read a few forum threads on replacing them myself, and it seems like as long as you don't have any super stubborn bolts that it is definitely doable in my home garage. But, with the engine out, and the exhaust manifolds already disconnected, it may be best to just have them throw a couple new ones on. I'd rather not get bent over by Nissan on cost since they run $600+ each, and was wondering if any of you have replaced yours with aftermarket converters? What brand, and how long have they been on without problems? I think Walker has a decent product, and possibly Eastern? I looked at the Magnaflows as well, but don't necessarily want to pay a premium for a name if I can get around it. Anyone ever dealt with Pacesetter? Decent price and seem to look like quality work.
  10. With the front hubs unlocked, I used to get between 20-22 on the freeway. Around town I get probably 13-17 depending on the day and how much stop and go there is. I'd like to have 6 gears to to row through, I think around 2700-3000 rpm at 75 might actually yield around 23-24 consistently on long trips. I know my mpg at 65 is significantly better than at 75 in 5th gear.
  11. I know it will be a little different with the auto transmission, but do you have an idea how much your RPMs increased at 75mph? Right now, with the 4.363 gears I cruise at around 3500 RPM in 5th gear. Some quick math says I'll be at around 3700 with a gear change. Most of my daily driving consists of stop and go traffic so it may be a trade off in that I won't have to push it as much in the lower gears to accelerate, and thus get better gas mileage under normal conditions, while sacrificing some mpg on longer road trips. Which is overall fine with me.
  12. Do you know what your cruising RPMs are at 75mph with the 4.636 gearing?
  13. Ah, if you are on PC then in the left hand column there is a link to a page called 'Files'. If you are on mobile then at the top of the page underneath the cover photo scroll all the way to the right in the list until you get to the link to the 'Files' page. There are several documents there, and the Lift Info.docx file is the one you want. Edit: Hawaiirish - I see you have done the change to the 4.636 gearing. What are your impressions of the change? That is one of the things I had planned at some point, and now might be the time I actually get to it since I have a renewed passion for my Pathy! Not that I didn't thoroughly enjoy driving it still, but after doing a bunch of mods you get to a point where you just want to drive it for awhile. Now that I am into it more, the list of items to do is becoming more prevalent in my mind.
  14. If I had the time I definitely have the mechanical skills to get these back to solid condition, provided the ring lands haven't scarred the cylinder walls beyond repair. It did have quite a bit of blow-by, exacerbated I believe by the need for a new PCV valve, though that's just an educated guess. It would go through about 1.5 quarts a month. It also most likely either needs the rear seal/upper oil pan gaskets done or the o-rings on the oil cooler since for about 2 months now I have had about a quarter sized drop of oil on the garage floor after driving it. I was under it a few weeks ago and determined that it was one of the two based on where the oil on the bottom was localized. I have a new PCV valve, which I am going to have installed on the new engine as a stop-gap measure. With the engine out of the vehicle, it should be really easy to change as well. Since it is my DD, the requirement for removing the intake plenum to get to the PCV valve is what ultimately kept it from happening quickly. That and about a dozen other projects going on at any given time. I do however, already have one engine about halfway torn down for a refresher. Not a total rebuild (at least until I get the head off and inspect the condition of things), but I don't really have any more room in the garage, lol. That's the RB25det NEO for the Zenki. And I definitely do NOT need another project, lmao. I'm sure you have the necessary skills to bring these back to life as well...
  15. Originally my plan had been to buy whatever motor had the lowest miles, '02-'04 motors only. I apparently lucked out in that I ordered the engine, tranny, and transfer case from the same vehicle, a 2002 4x4 5spd out of NY with verified 80,911 miles. The VIN for the donor and my VIN both check out as 2002 SE model 5spd chassis with effectively the same exact options. So I should be good to go on a straight up swap. The funny thing is, I did quite a bit of searching for differences between '02, '03, and '04 VQ35de Pathfinder motors, and did not really produce anything of substance. I am usually quite good at keyword searches and revealing information that is buried deep in past forum posts. Better than most people I know anyway. That's why I created this thread. I normally do a lot of research before asking questions in order to keep redundant posts to a minimum. The Engine and Trans/TC are shipping on separate pallets, so since they are already split I figured I might as well have my mechanic change out the rear main seal since it really should not add much to the swap price. I purchased a Fel-Pro rear main seal and upper oil pan gaskets: Fel-Pro BS40631 (RMS), and Fel-Pro OS30696 (UOPG) - You need the upper oil pan gasket. I also purchased the lower oil pan gasket: Fel-Pro OS30777 I am also going to have them change out the transmission and transfer case oil, so I purchased 8 quarts of Red Line MT-90, 5.39 quarts for the transmission, and 2.32 quarts for the transfer case. I have a Detroit Axle rebuilt steering rack with Moog tie rod ends I am going to have them install as well. I had planned on doing it one of these weekends, but had not gotten around to it yet. Once I have it back in my possession, I have some refresher things I had planned as well. Since I am apparently going to be keeping it for awhile, might as well get those done soon.
  16. I am inclined to agree with Hawaiirish. I am in the same boat as you (that's my thread linked above), in needing to swap my engine, and had asked whether there were differences between the VQ35s. I looked at the diagrams and indeed there are differences, but it is hard to tell whether the differences will result in an issue. It may be the best option to find the same year engine as you are replacing, yes, and I may have dodged a bullet by finding a 2002 5spd 4x4 and grabbed the engine, tranny, and transfer case. However, I find it hard to believe that Nissan would have revised things so heavily between model years with the same engine that it would be as insanely difficult as the FB thread would have you believe. I'm not saying Vargas doesn't know what he is talking about, but some of the things listed are a bit trivial in my opinion, and shouldn't make a lot of difference. As much as I know about Nissan's, it has become apparent to me that many items across the same model vehicle are more compatible than diagrams would lead you to believe. I can also confirm that the no1 coilpack is different on my current engine as well, because it was a HUUUUUUUUUGE biatch to get the bolt that holds the coilpack down off and even though I hand tightened it half way I still cross threaded that SOB and had to easy out it in a state of panic, lol.
  17. I'm leaning heavily towards this. I think if I am going to go SFD I'll likely want to use 3x2x1/4 tubing and do a a custom strut tower mount for 3 inches. That way I can eliminate the 1" spacer and get an extra 2" of lift while returning the CV angles 1" back towards stock angle. For the rear, and I know it is not ideal, but I found some spring perches for 2 inches of lift, so now I need to figure out if I will need to replace the rear Bilsteins with a longer length model. Oh, and it sucks, but the guy with the 34k mile engine apparently sold it last week but never removed the ad, so there's that. I have an inquiry out to a salvage yard that has one with around 80k to see if they'll do a combo for me with the engine, transmission, and transfer case. I've got my fingers crossed.
  18. Ah, I understand. So you have stock coil height right? When I installed the AC springs and 1" spacer in the front, I slotted the top hole on the struts, and used camber bolts, and I was pretty much maxed out on everything in order to bring the alignment to about -0.3 degrees. I think with the sag I'm probably right around -0.5deg as my tire wear is still even and the tires are pretty much square to the ground, so it can't be much more than that. I joined the R50 Facebook page, and downloaded the SFD Word document, which has enough info in it that I may look at building some strut mounts. I have access to a CNC plasma table at work, so cutting the flanges is no big deal. I may be able to convince our shop supervisor to cut some pipe for me as well, so all it would take is welding them up. 3 1/2" sch. 40 ought to work nicely. Decisions decisions. I may not be able to take care of these things before I would like to have the Pathy back on the road. My parent's are letting me borrow one of their extra vehicles for the time being, but I'd like to give it back to them as soon as possible. Oh well, if it doesn't happen now, I have a few jacks and an engine hoist in my garage, so doing it later may not be as easy but it is doable.
  19. I thought this same exact thing last night when I wrote that... hmmm... Hawairish - you wouldn't happen to have a drawing of the strut top pieces for your 3" SFD would you? I can get the rectangular tubing easily enough for the subframe blocks, but the angles on the strut top assemblies would be nice to have. I know the originals are in a thread from somewhere long ago, but digging them up is always a bit of a chore. :-)
  20. Nice, so just make sure the current throttle body is used. Good to know the difference, having not seen or worked on an 03-04 I didn't realize this difference. Thank you so much! If anyone else believes there is a difference other than Lower Intake Plenum, and Throttle Body, feel free to chime in! I'm by no means an expert either. I know my truck pretty well, but there is definitely knowledge to still be gained. Looking to do a small, maybe 3" subframe drop in the near future as well. The AC lift has sagged a bit and it doesn't look as tough as it did a few years ago.
  21. Oh, and I'm gonna have some things to show off soon. I installed a head unit and speakers, and the tweeters would not fit in the A-pillars with the covers on, so I am going to 3D print housings for the tweeters to cover up the opening on the pillar and point the tweeters towards the front seats. Should be pretty sweet! And anyone who wants the 3D model may have it. It'll be a month or so, but I'll share it willingly!
  22. Excellent! Thank you! The 34k mile one is a diamond in the rough I think. Honestly had it been my vehicle I would have fixed the front quarter panel, bumper, and head light assembly and told the insurance to not bother. I mean, 34,000 miles! Most of the threads I read were more about swapping a manual into an auto chassis, so the waters were muddy as to whether there were any other differences with accessories and such. I guess there is one more small question. The engine is from a 2003 and mine is a 2002. The description says it fits 03-04, but I am fairly certain there is no difference between the 01-04 VQ35DE engines, so it should be fine right?
  23. I get what you are saying, but I think you misunderstood me. Probably because I made it confusing, lol. I am buying a used lower mileage manual tranny (I currently have a manual Pathy, but high mileage and needs a timing chain job $$$). The engine I was looking at is from an automatic. It does not come with a transmission. So I'll need to purchase a clutch and flywheel, which I was planning on replacing anyway since the motor will be out of the vehicle. The question relates to the use of the motor (just the motor) from the automatic Pathfinder. Can I replace the auto motor intake plenum with the one I have currently on my manual motor, and be done with it? Or are there other things that need to be addressed?
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