drewp29

K I am going to try to post some pics of before and after shots. Bare with me, this is my first attempt at posting photos.

You're missing a sticker - NPORA! lol

I fully plan to still be driving the Pathy in 10 years . . . provided I can fix everything that I inevitably will break.

I see what you did there, but it's still not the direction I would go if I were running Nissan. The obsession with CUVs currently is not to my liking. But what do I know, I don't run a multi-billion dollar company.

I totally agree! Don't get me wrong, I'd love to drive a hybrid or all-electric as a DD just to save money on the cost of fuel. However, if you look at the initial cost increase for the technology your return on investment is longer than the vast majority of people keep their cars before selling them. Even second hand you end up paying a premium and unless you plan on keeping it for 5+ years you won't realize much monetary gain overall. My parent's just recently bought a new Jeep and are probably looking at buying another new car soon, but they will have both of them for the rest of their lives, so it makes sense now. They have NEVER purchased a NEW vehicle as long as I have been alive.

I hope to have the strut situation sorted out tonight, so by the weekend I should be able to post some pics!

Funny, the ONLY domestic I would consider buying these days is a Ford since they didn't take bail-out money. I figure if I owned a small business and ran it into the ground with poor business practices / money management then my business should fail. The government wouldn't offer to bail me out to keep my business afloat, so why should it be any different for a large company. Just my opinion

It's more difficult than it would seem just because of all the things you have to get out of the way to get to the coil packs, but it's definitely garage DIY do-able. On cylinder 1 I broke the bolt head off that holds the coil pack due to cross threading since it sits at a weird angle and I couldn't quite get in there to hand thread it very well. Had to use a bolt puller to get it back out. If you use multiple extensions to get down in to the plug, I would suggest using it in the following order: Ratchet, short extension, long extension, socket. That way if the extensions come apart leaving one in the plug well the longer one will allow it to stick out and be accessible. The short one would be down in the well if it was attached to the socket and would be difficult to get at.

I have no idea how to do this . . . there is absolutely no power band under 2k. I mean, I follow people that drive like this on the way to work everyday, but I don't think I could live with myself if I drove like them

Oh, and I need to trim the front bumper just a tad to clear the outside tread blocks while turning. I removed the mud flaps and the tires clear fine at the rear now. Consequently I broke the heads off 3 of the 8 screws that hold the mud flaps on as they were brittle and weak sauce.

Here it is a month later and I'm almost done . . . As it sits right now, everything is installed, but I do have one issue: My passenger side strut has a gap between the center strut rod nut and the strut mount. The nut is bottomed out on the rod and I still have about a 3/8" gap. I am not sure what the problem is since the assembly was put back together the same way as the driver's side. I did however forget to clock the strut mount correctly before taking the spring compressors off and had to clock it after mounting the top 3 strut bolts to the engine bay. I had to turn the strut about 120 degrees to get the spindle mounts located correctly so it may have damaged the bearing? There is a smaller gap between the mount and the top spring perch on that side (which the bearing fills), but no where near the gap between the nut and the mount. I dunno, I am going to pull the strut back out tomorrow after work and have a look. Hopefully nothing is broken and I just need to redo the strut mount. Which means I'll get another workout with the spring compressors, which are a huge pain in the balls.

Agreed, modding is tons more fun. Fixing is: "I'll do it because it HAS to be done," whereas modding is: "I'll do it because it'll be SWEET when it's done!" Both require spending cashola, but modding has much more satisfaction involved.

Oh yeah, when it's done pictures will abound! And Beers!

I drove from Pueblo to Winter Park and back last summer on one tank of gas (the fuel light turned on as I was pulling into Shell). I did the math and I averaged 21.6 mpg on that trip. I don't usually fill the tank, but I estimate I average around 17-18 around town with 91 octane Shell gas, and 15-16 with everyone else's 91 octane. We'll see how that changes when my AC lift is done. Almost there, just the rears and an alignment and I'm good to go.

IMHO, this is most likely the reason for the mpg boost. I know the Shell gas I put in (91 octane) does not have any added ethanol, whereas the mid-grade and regular do. With the government push for more fuel efficient vehicles, you'd think they would stop putting ethanol in all blends just for the efficiency gains. I personally HATE ethanol for passenger vehicles. Ethanol has a lower energy content (about 1.5 gallons of ethanol = 1 gallon of gasoline) so you get less power output from ethanol blends, which would result in worse fuel efficiency.

Can you take some pictures? Kinda hard to tell what is going on, but that just doesn't sound right.

Nice work bro! I am almost ready to do the same exact lift with the same color Pathy, but mine is a 2002 with the body colored fender flares. I didn't opt for the 33s, but instead went with 32s. My thought process was in line with what Rick said - I want the extra lift to fit larger tires and give a little more off road clearance. I was heavily considering the SFD given the known (and so often repeated by some) issues with the AC lift. Here is how I broke it down: 1. Need new struts, rear dampers, and springs anyway. I cost out a stock for new stock swap with the WJ springs for the rear and the expense was pretty close to what I spent on the AC lift springs, KYB Excel-Gs, and Bilstein dampers. AC lift wins that round given that I would also have to buy the rest of the SFD. 2. Bigger tires = heavier tires/more rolling resistance = lower gas mileage. Manual locking hubs free up wasted energy which will help offset the decrease in MPG. Bonus, it also helps out that pesky CV angle thing with the AC lift. Since manual hubs were already on the list even with a SFD, I believe round 2 goes to the AC lift as well. 3. Strut top out - the number one issue that was pushing me towards the SFD. Round 3 definitely goes to the SFD. 4. Spring Rates - replacing the stock strut springs with new stock gives me the same spring rate (albeit, definitely a higher rate than the current springs) as stock . . . derp. That doesn't help any plans for heavy items up front in the future. The rear WJs would help the towing and DH bike transportation sag. You might as well get it stiff up front if you have it stiff in the rear . . . err, you know what I mean . . . Round 4 to the AC lift. 5. Ease of installation. Now don't misunderstand me, I realize the SFD is not that difficult if you are a modest or better home mechanic, and given the guides posted here, should be relatively straight forward. However, I have to change the rest of the suspension in addition to adding blocks, engine mounts, brake lines, panhard rod extension, steering shaft extension, etc. My Pathy is my DD, and my only way to get to work, so if I run into problems and don't get it back together before Monday I am pretty much SOL. I figure I can do the suspension on a Saturday, and if I hit a snag I'll still have Sunday to figure it out. Round 5 to the AC lift. 6. Camber after lift. Yes, positive camber can be a problem with the AC lift (as discussed above, especially with 1" spacers). Yes, it is better with the SFD. No, it does NOT render the AC lift with spacers impossible. Since every Pathy it seems is different, I am going to try the camber bolts first, and if I can't seem to get it close in the garage, I'll slot the holes and be done with it. Why don't I slot them first? I don't want to start cutting metal if I don't have to. The argument that the stock bolts are stronger is moot. I don't know what the material make-up is of the camber bolts, so trying to compare them based on diameter and how they 'look' is just silliness. I call this round a tie, other judges may disagree. Seems like the AC lift is running away with things . . . well it really isn't. There are definite advantages to the SFD over the AC lift. For my intents and purposes the AC lift is a better fit. And in a couple years I will probably get the upgrade itch again and do the SFD in addition to the AC lift. At that point I expect to have a DD that gets better gas mileage, so having it down for a few days won't be such a big deal. Now, rocky2, please do not take offense to what I have said. I appreciate that you are being innovative and solving the issues with the AC lift as noted above - we should all be as committed to it as you are. However, the attitude that the AC lift must be crap because there are things which must be modified to make it work is absurd. The AC lift, even given it's shortcomings is WAY more of a plug and play application for lifting than the SFD. Yes, there is increased wear on certain parts, but put it this way, you wouldn't expect to bolt a turbo to the VQ and get the same kind of life as NA. Even if you built it, the block is still aluminum and not meant for boost. Well, just sleeve the cylinders, etc., etc. etc. At some point it is just more advantageous to start with a beefier engine (SR20 or KA debate right?) The downfall of the Pathfinder suspension is that it is a unibody. It was never meant to be lifted (err thanks Nissan). We have some work arounds thanks to people like rocky2 who are committed to making the Pathfinder what it ought to have been in the first place, but the fact remains it is still a unibody and limited to some extent by that. ANYWAY, I've said my piece. snow4me . . . the truck looks great! Figure out the camber problem and I am sure there are many days to play ahead!

For all who have the 96-99 Pathfinders this is a great option to eliminate strut top out, and add a good amount of tune-ability to the front suspension as well. However, this is not an option for the 00-04 Pathfinders since Koni doesn't make a strut insert for these years. But, if you do have a 96-99 and currently are running KYB struts this is definitely worth looking into!

So I bought the rims from Street Side Auto. $461 w/ delivery. Can't beat that price - for those rims at least! The M/T wheel fitment guide states the hub centering rings are not needed for the 00-04 Pathfinder (for part # 90000000951), so I have my fingers crossed that the hub diameter is correct. Otherwise, I am sure I can get a set from wherever I have the tires mounted and balanced, until I can find a more suitable metal ring either custom machined or aftermarket.

I stripped a bolt for the coilpacks when I was changing my spark plugs. I tried various easy-outs, but the ones that ended up working were a black and decker set. The difference was the reverse thread was a much higher thread per inch, and it bit more into the hole I drilled in the end of the bolt. http://www.homedepot.com/buy/black-decker-screw-extractor-set-5-pieces-16270-s.html#.UNu7Z6w8CSo You should be able to find them at Home Depot. Best of luck . . . I hate when this happens.

I have not ordered my rims yet. The tires are still probably a week out so that isn't an issue. But, in looking at the rims I was planning on purchasing, tirepackage says they are hubcentric, and when I start the checkout process they are asking for vehicle information. I assume this is so they can provide hubcentric rings right? Also, I have read a few forum threads on whether or not the backspacing on the rear running 33" tires will be an issue with rear tire tuck when the suspension is fully compressed. Were I to go the SFD route and 33s in the future, would the -3.625" BS on these rims pose an issue here? I know -3.75" is recommended, and the 1/8" might not be enough different, but thought I'd check with the forum members just in case. Thanks!

Disconnect your MAF and see if it still has problems. The plugs shouldn't make THAT much difference in fuel mileage. I agree, NGK work the best with Nissans, but you shouldn't see a crazy change with the Bosch plugs. A failing MAF can cause issues with starting, idle, and low RPM driving. Just disconnect it and see what happens.

You'd probably have to have one custom fabbed. Aftermarket support is severely lacking for the R50, other than the few companies that started out of the necessity of wanting to modify their own R50. Thankfully they exist though . . . It shouldn't be too hard to find a shop to make one.

I agree vacuum lines could cause these symptoms . . . also, failing ECM possibly??? Just throwing out ideas.

Do the NX4 spacers really make so much difference that using two camber bolts per side cannot bring it into alignment?