Darek

I have a play on the CV joint, I can move it by hand and a knock can be heard. Also when I'm driving through potholes I hear that sound but louder. What should I replace and do I need to disassemble whole wheel mounting (hub, bearing, etc)? Here is a video:

I washed the transfer case and after almost 2 weeks everything is clean except area where the drive shaft is connected to the transfer case. So I'll replace front oil seal only.

Thank you guys. In fact I don't know where the leak is coming from exactly. I'll wash it and check for leak source after some time.

I have an oil leakage from transfer box. Meachanic says that oil seal should be replaced. I am sure that he have not done it on Pathfinder before so I would like you to give me some hints so I could check if he is doing it properly. Also I would like to know which seals should be replaced: center case, shift shaft or rear and what part number it is. Thank you in advance

I was at the mechanic an he said that the rubbing sound is caused by bad strut bearing. I suppose the bearing could went bad after installing new struts and springs. Maybe it was to weak. Anyway I am going to replace it. As for the clunk sound with wheel locked right it doesn't appear any more. The mechanic diagnosed also that right passenger wheel bearing is to loose. There is a play on the wheel. He told me that I need a new bearing. I was repacking bearings 3 months ago and maybe I tightened it too much or too low. Is there any chance that the bearing is still good and it only need to be re-tightened?

Could you post a video with the noise? I also have a noise from struts and they were replaced recently, without new bearings.

I replaced the power steering fluid and as for now it sounds like the squeaking sound is gone. The old fluid was very black. I didn't flushed the system completely as I couldn't unplug the returning hose. I just emptied reservoir, filled with fresh ATF fluid, drive a while and repeated it 3 times. During fluid replacement I noticed new sounds which I think are no good ;( The first sound appear with engine running and steering wheel locked left/right. RPMs are getting little down and engine (or something else) sound is louder. The second sound is a clunk which appear when locking steering wheel at driver side. Passenger side is quiet. There is a third sound ;( It started appearing the day I installed new springs. It sounds like something is rubbing. I thought it was the strut or CV joint rubber cover but I greased it with silicone grease and it didn't help. The sound can be heard at low speeds up to 20 mph when turning left/right. This rubbing sound was missing with both wheels lifted. Also I am sure that wheels are not rubbing anything. Maybe it is caused by the strut bearings which I didn't replaced together with new springs and struts. Or maybe it is due to spring upper seat (a rubber component between spring and strut mounting) which I could install in wrong direction - I am not sure. There are no suspicious sounds with speed above 20 mph even on a bumpy paved road. Please watch next video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lodSL6Pr_c&feature=youtu.be So once again I ask for an advice what to start with.

Does anyone has a suggestion what it could be? How could I diagnose it, the sound is only when driving.

For few days I am experiencing squeaking noise from the front underbody. Few days earlier I went to off-road and I got stuck in a very sticky mud. I don't know if it has something common with this noise. I am sure I didn't hit anything hard during off-road. Also I am not sure if my belts are properly tightened. They were replaced in July at shop, but they didn't use any tension gauge. Squeaking noise video, there is nothing to watch - only audio. Normally the sound was more quiet. I went to a wash before the video so maybe it is louder due to water on belts or something. I noticed that it was becoming louder when I was turning the steering wheel. Belts tighten video: Do you know what the reason could be?

I have new KYB shocks and struts installed in July. I don't like there is no +35 mm.

Some pictures:

I already installed the springs. It took me about one and half day and it wasn't too difficult. My wife who sits at back seat says that the ride is much comfortable now. As for me I wouldn't say that the springs are very soft, I think they are just normal, similar to stock. I am disappointed when it comes to the lift effect. These springs should give about +35 mm of lift. First look at factory specification: Now my figures (in centimetres). I measured it from the ground level to bottom of the plastic fender flare. Before Left Right Front 82,5 82,5 Rear 79 79,5 After Left Right Front 82 82 Rear 86,6 87,4 Front is little lower than before lift (maybe tire pressure?) and still below the factory height. Rear is close to the factory height but there is no additional +35 mm! What do you think about it? I am afraid that they could go even lower when they settle after some time.

I just bought Ironman springs and I will be installing it soon. I have a spring compressor, the factory jack and two jack stands The first question is - are the springs symmetrical or is there left and right one? Secondly which side is up and down? I know that there is special mark on stock springs which shows spring correct direction, but there is no such mark on Ironmans. The next case is about rear spring replacing scenario. (I know how to deal with front as I saw it at shop) As I read at different topics I imagine that scenario is as follows: - jack up rear with jack under axle and support subframe on jack stands (lock front wheels with chops) - support axle at one side with jack - remove wheels, remove shock lower bolt, remove some brake line harness - compress spring - using the jack lower the axle and remove spring - be careful about not damaging brake lines - install new spring, screw shock bolt and continue with second side. Is this okay? Is there something I should know about disconnecting brake line harness?

All brakes are replaced and bled. But I think that brake pedal is too soft. Actually it was soft before I started replacing brakes. I'll try to bleed the system one more time with more care. I just don't know where LSV air bleeder (4WD models) is and how to bleed the master cylinder.

Ok, I did it with wooden block I have one wheel to go and today it should be finished.

Rotor is off and broken bolts are off. Now I am torquing the wheel bearing lock nut to 70lbs but I can't get even into 50 because rotor is spinning and I can't hold it by one hand. Is there any trick to lock the rotor?

I am replacing front brakes and I have a problem. Right hub was very dry inside like there was no grease. One screw that was holding wheel bearing lock nut was fall out and second was loose. I took everything off from this hub (all bolts and torque member and cylinder body) but I can't take off the rotor. It is locked. How to remove that rotor? Left hub was full of grease and I could take off the rotor. But bolts which where holding the torque member were very tight and I broke that two bolts ;( How do you suggest to remove that broken bolts from the torque member body?

sroeser01 - I am from Poland, Europe and Lovells are available here

Ok, I'll buy new springs, but I don't know which type. I have following rear springs available: - Ironman NISS035B +35mm +200 kg - Lovells DRR-83HD +35-50mm +100 kg Lovells are little more expensive, but they are in stock and I have to wait more than month for Ironmans. Second thing is that Lovells should be higher, up to 2", and I am afraid of top-out and buying an additional spacers/camer bolts as you do with AC 2" lift. (those things are in front but maybe I'll go with front too) Finally Ironmans are HeavyDuty and I am afraid that they could be too hard as I don't drive with so much load. What do you think?

I found an information about stock vehicle height: I measured my height and this is what I have got: Front: Left - 82,5 cm, Right 82,5 cm Rear: Left 79,5 cm, Right 80,5 cm It looks like it is too low so maybe it is the time for the new springs? I have some photos: The wrench has 14,5 cm length and the hand is not mine

The brake fluid is fresh as i flushed it two months ago and I bled system now too. It is copper compound on the hub. I didn't adjust the adjuster so maybe this is the reason I don't feel any difference.

I finished replacing drums. I have new shoes, new drums, new springs and new cylinders. But unfortunately I don't feel any improvement in braking. I have some photos below. First is my spring compressor

Bluewulf73, thank you for a comprehensive description. I definitely will go with new cylinder and thorough cleaning. I am going to take the drums to a shop to measure its diameter.