rocky2

I was thinking about going this route, It's no protection but looks cool and will be a good mount for my offroad lights and then I'm getting a rear tire hanger to even things out. http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/products/sfID1/61/sfID2/273/sfID3/22/productID/3677

Its got the extension. 3 piece Rola and the previous owner welded two 4" stubby pipe pieces on the side for a bike tray but I'm planning on using them for Hi-lift or shovel attachment spot. You can barely see them sticking out on the drivers side. Gonna take the stock fog lights out of the front bumper and replace with something better and mount the old fogs on the back of the rack for back-up lights. Oh and I pulled a couple of stickers off the fairing. One was a Jeep sticker!!

I picked up a used Safari rack for $120, what do you guys think?

This is an example of my next idea for adjustable struts http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/grn-%20fox%20coil-over%20kits.pdf

Just ordered another pair of Koni strut inserts. Gonna keep them around for spares or fab an adjustable coilover set-up. Pics coming soom.

It's working out perfect so far. No puckering the old spincter when hitting a pot hole or "gettin after it" in the dirt. If you know what I mean. No more big clunk! The spring has to be taken off the Koni's in order to adj. You have to push the rod all the down and engage the adjustment mechanism and you can feel it click when you turn the rod. I put mine at the stiffest setting and Love it. So you probably won't be messing around with the adjustment very much. Go for the SFD it really isn't that hard and is definetly worth it. It's really the smartest way to lift an IFS, springs alone cause issues. Slotting the top knuckle hole solved all the positive camber issues due to the AC coils and was easy enough. The 2" SFD keeps the CV angles exceptable as well. I did the AC coils and a 2" SFD and wish that I just went for the 4" KrFabs set up in the first place. I ordered the Pan Hard drop bracket and installed it but it pushed the rear a little to the passenger side. I wish it had multiple holes for positionsand/or lengths (I want to take the bar off and cut it, thread it and make it adjustable to get it perfect. That will be another project.) Got the steering extension coming from Andrew because my stock set-up has a bad u-joint in the steering link and was binding a bit. The etension block a copied from "shift220" worked fine but thought that I should just go with the aftwermarket steering ext. Andrew sells for piece off mind. Replacing the stock set-up was about the same price. No strut spacers as of yet but might look into them as well. So you see that I've pieced it all together and I'm having fun solving alot of problems but all is done for you with the kit. Anybody replacing their struts should go with the Koni's. If you are using the stock springs there would be no need to put a spacer at the bottom or use a collar.

I'll buy them off you!! They look awesome Is that the Rola roof basket? That looks great too

You're just cutting the outside of the housing. You're not cutting the strut rod itself. The strut housing was maybe a 1/16 thick. I used a cut off wheel on my angle grinder and it cut like Butter. The hacksaw or pipe cutter method looks easy as well. I left the housing as long as was possible. There is enough interference fit without the collar and the bolt attachment at the bottom is what really holds the insert in the housing. The collar was strictly insurance if you know what I mean. The collar is say 2" tall. The first ID or step is the size of the strut housing diameter and the second ID or step is the diameter of the insert. With a set screw on the side cause I'm anal retentive.

Sure Dude, anything to help. I can walk you thru it on the phone or we can ship things around but seems spendy. I've seen guys use pipe fittings for the bottom spacer http://www.mx6.com/f...stallation.html You can get a longer bolt just about anywhere that stocks a variety of fasteners. I think it is an M10x1.5x80. You'll figure that out easy enough. Follow Koni's instructions and "git er done" The reducer I built at the top of the strut tube was overkill IMHO. But I could fab a couple of those up if you gotta have em. The slotted bolt hole for camber adj. is pretty self explanatory. If you have a hacksaw and drill bits you can get thru this blind folded.

Good work !!! Glad to see that you're fixing it. That shows some ingenuity.

Measure the lifting blocks under the sub-frame.

Alright that's it, I found the cure to all our ills http://www.airbagit.com/v/vspfiles/photos/FBS-CAD-40-KIT3-2.jpg

Found this one Don't worry. It's normal. Most kits do this. You'll get used to it. You could always go to a local 4x4 shop and get limiting straps if you REALLY don't want to hear it. Jose Shall we continue!!!

In the rear or the front?

http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/28225109/mump_1008_08_o+macpherson_strut_system+ride_height_adjusted.jpg This what I want for my pathy

When I was in Chile last year, I noticed all the small trucks and SUV's were diesel. I'd buy a Nissan pathy with a diesel in a minute. But oh no can't import those into the states. I appreciate your response to this thread. I hate to hijack them and beat the horse into the ground but I think alot of the pathy guys just aren't that into suspension upgrade. I read constantly here that everyone is experiencing the same issues and all that is suggested is living with it or straps.

Put the cabin filters in today before going to work. My pathy didn't have any filters at all. I cut out the opening and no stock filters. Blew out the space and put the new ones in and buttoned it up and another perfect job. Thanx NORPA and its members.

Now if only someone would make these for the Pathy http://image.importtuner.com/f/tech/impp_1104_popular_adjustable_coilovers_fact_or_fiction/36031416+w620/impp_1104_04_z+coilovers+tein_mono_flex.jpg

http://www.intakeparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/5/image/05c681ca24c0f7558a982e188ace01f9/s/k/sk2-541-05-4750_2.10.jpgThought I would include a site with pic to furthter illustrate the elongated top hole

I couldn't agree more. I have Ohlin's suspension on my Motorcycle, Fox and Marzozochi on my mountainbikes, Skunk2 pro S on the Civic and now Koni/Bilstein on my pathy. I know how to tune, modify and repair suspension. When you put AC or any longer coils in the rear, you put longer shocks as well. This mode of thinking should be followed in the front also. It's not rocket science, you need more stroke if you lengthen the spring. When you change spring length, the shock most be longer as well. MacPherson struts are basically a shock inside the spring.

Top out issue solution: This is how I did it, it's how America does it and it's worked out pretty good so far.

The total available stroke in a KYB strut for the R50 is 7" As seen by the first tapered step in the rod. Centering the strut rod is optimal. Using AC 2" lift coils diminshes the available stroke in the upward direction. If center is 3.5" and the AC coils take 1" of stroke away that leaves only 2.5" of upward travel. Throw limiting straps in the equation and further limitation of stroke is produced. Another pic for reference purposes: Total strut lenght is about 25" You can see my extension to the rod in this pic. Not advised due to stress at this area and resulting failure on another strut.

Does anyone make a 2" longer strut or adjustable coilover for our vehicles?

It does seem redundant but there is one relay per bulb and yes the wire gauge and connectors are an upgrade. This system can definitely handle higher wattage bulbs.

I thought I would pass this on. It's inexpensive and really improved the headlights. I got this idea off a jeep web-site and put it in my boys Cherokee with IPF Fatboy bulbs and Hella lenses. I know, pretty spendy for this set-up. It really worked out well for him. But on the pathy I just did the harness and some Silverstar bulbs and it worked out pretty good. I added some wire loom sheathing, shrink wrap,some extra zip-ties and routed it carefully and thought I would post. As we all know, the relay is doing all the work with the power going from battery to relay and then to bulb. Means brighter bulb. http://www.coolbulbs...ing_harness.asp http://www.amazon.co...star ultra 9004 About $70 and you get alot of improvement out of your headlights.