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DarkDragon

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Everything posted by DarkDragon

  1. at first it was reading it from the battery with my multi-meter. anyways, i did a full charge system check with the help of the fsm. all wire are fine. got voltage where it needs to be. got continuity through all the wires. tried to find the 211m plug for the circuit breaker, but i had no luck. where is it? ------------------------------- just got back from advance auto from testing my 2 day old alternator. it failed. this blows. back to napa for a new one. is there something that i should have changed before i get another and blow it as well? thanks
  2. Hey guys, I just did this swap yesterday. In the morning, my old alternator was running 14.3v and when I gave it load by turning on the head lights on high and the ac on full blast the voltage to drop to 13.3 and the car would stall out. In the afternoon I did the swap with a 94 Max alt. It worked great for about 5 minutes. I started the car and my multi-meter read 19v.wow what a jump. I gave it the load test again, dropped to 18v. Got below and tighten up a few thing, when I look back at my meter is reading 12.3v and dropping. Did I just blow my new alternator, fuse, or the flux capacitor? I can’t figure out what went wrong. Please help; I need this vehicle for tomorrow work. Thanks
  3. For those that are interested, i have made an easy to read ECU pin out for the Pathfinder. I have verified all pins to my 95 PF, XE, Auto Tans. Yours might different. This is what I look for when I am installing a fuel management controller. For the easy install, an Apex’I SAFC I or II works very well with the small mods like intake headers and exhaust. It works great for turbo applications as well. I have made 430whp and 400wtq on an Apex’I SAFC I, on an eagle talon with a 35r supporting mods and stock fuel line. The car was starting to run lean at 27psi. So this little box will support some power. I will be installing a Greddy E-Manage (blue box) to my PF once I get all the bugs out. This one requires a laptop for fine tuning. I can also change injector sizes to have them run like stock. I was running this on my 87 Conquest Turbo. I tuned to 11.3 AFR at 19psi of boost to make 300whp and 325tq. All I did to that car was changed the MAF and ran a -6an fuel line with MSD Booster Pump and an Aeromotive FPR. I may also be able to play with timing on the PF, but I am unsure of that yet. Have to see how the Honda guys retard their timing using this and their V-tech on their distributor. Enjoy. Tony (how can i upload a PDF file?)
  4. Ok here is the deal. The ECU had no codes. So I did the following: Checked battery voltage, 12.89v off and 14.39v car on. Connected my AEM wide band o2 kit to the exhaust, and started the car. WB- 16.2 AFR open loop / idle WB- 16.6 AFR closed loop / idle 1200 RPM cold, down to 1000 RPM warmed up on all 6 plug wires (multi meter) PF starts to stumble in park. Using my digital multi meter at the ecu: MAF Signal 1.103v / idle MAF Signal 1.7v / light rev O2 heater (-0.514v) (pin 106) O2 signal (-0.262v) (pin 19) O2 signal 0.214v heavy revving (pin 19) Driving in my drive way, which is long enough to test a few things, the car was now smooth. My WB read 13.0 AFR in closed loop at WOT up to 30mph as I had to hit the brakes to slow down. I did notice this odd thing, my WB was a steady 15.8AFR which equal to (-0.333v) at idle, 990-1000 rpm. What is this? Is my o2 going bad? The ECU I have looks to be new. In any case the numbers on it are: H9 MECM-V260 A1 4831, if that means anything: Also one last thing, I did notice a loose plug. It’s a blue with white plug, with female pins on it. Colors are: Orange White / Pink Black / empty Any ideal? Thanks a bunch. Tony
  5. Need help here guys/gals… My 95 PF is acting up again. I just changed the plugs, wires, cap, & rotor not even 2 months ago. I cleaned the MAF and changed the fuel filter about 2 weeks ago. Yesterday, started acting like its misfiring. This is only happening when it warmed up, (want to say closed loop) and mostly under load. Once in a while in park or neutral. You can hear the backfire while trying to drive. Yet when the engine is cold, (open loop) and get the lubes up a few minutes…, it runs smoothly. This happens under load as well. In park it free revs. I unplug the MAF and it free revs up to a certain point (rev limit, then the check engine light come on). So I want to rule the MAF out because the ECU sees it connected / unconnected. I have no check engine light with this misfire. could it be the o2 sensor? And the MIL pick it up. Will be checking for codes here in a minute. Please help. Thanks Tony
  6. fuel rail fit a 95? if so, how much, with no injectors. thanks.

  7. ok. thanks for the heads up. i did find it in the manual. it was def a pain to trace all the wires to its location. in any case, i have 2 wires that go to a check engine connector for the MIL light, but no actual location. any help would be appriciated... pin: 23-L= 25-G= tony. will be doing a full pin out sheet this weekend with a how to on engine management.
  8. Ok guys/gals, I have been searching this forum and the z31 forum, vg30 forums and pretty much all of the Nissan forums, Google helped. Anyways, I am trying to do a write up here on piggy back engine managements. So my question is: is the Z31 ecu a direct bolt on to the wd21? I mean no change of wires. I do know that the z31 came boosted so the programming is different, but is a direct swap, or are there a few pins that might need swapping? If so, what are the pins that need swapping; I have a better Idea of what I am looking at. One last thing, I do know our distributor works off of cam timing. Is there a vacuum advance like the old conquest and other vehicles? Or is it computerized where I can get to it? Easier if I can find a ecu pin-out for my 95 pathfinder. Thank you for your time, Tony.
  9. nice bov. there is another one on youtube called turkey bov. the guy drives around with it. it quite funny. sorry about the finger. those band saw can be mean.
  10. back from the dead. looking at summit so i can see the price range, i see that the liste p/n on the forum does not match. so, which would work better for my 95 path xe, v6, auto? 6201: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6201/ 6425: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6425/ or can i go with the cheap "Summit Racing" brand? thanks tony
  11. cleaned MAF cleaned TB flushed brake fluid with Napa DOT3 new fuel filter need to do list. -y-pipe fabricated -rear struts -rear bushings -REAR FRAME.... -passanger front tension rod -rear disk conversion long term, if it last. Turbo
  12. here was my problem to the horrible front end shake and wobble at 50 MPH. the new vs. old more pics here. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3934107/1995-nissan-pathfinder-xe-sport-utility-4d/page-3 Tony
  13. i'd be intrested in this. dual pod for 2 1/16 gauge.
  14. found the problem as it started pouring cats and dogs... busted tension rod. missing the backhalf that bolts to the truck. will post pictures later. now to the dealer to get them. thanks for the info as well. that helped out in looking.
  15. On Wednesday, my girl told me that the she heard and felt something pop and hit under the truck. Then it started that wobble with the scary shake as she was coming up to speed at 50mph. driving local will still give it the wobble but not the shakes. I jacked it up and noticed that the front sway bar links bushings were blown. I could wiggle them by hand with the pressure on them. I also noticed the tension rod bushings destroyed, but were there. Yesterday, I was able to replace the front sway bar bushings and links. After a test drive in my local area, bumpy roads, the path was a smooth drive. I even drove it into the drive way like she does, and stiff as a rock coming in. so I thought it was fixed (no license, so no test drive at 50mph). This morning on her way to work, she told me that the truck started to shake and wobble uncontrollably again at the 50mph. so I told her to come back home so I can take a look at it. Only other thing that I noticed that needs replacing are the outer tie rods, tension rod bushings, upper ball joint on both sides. I have read the entire page and have done a forum search and a google search. Yet I cannot comprehend the front of the truck shacking with the steering wheel and yet have to do with the pathfinder trailing arm bushings. Going to look at the rear end of the truck today and see what else. In the mean time, any help from you guys would be very greatful. Thanks Tony
  16. thanks for the welcome. yes i have seen what looks like the vg33 on twin turbo w/ twin intercoolers. i have also seen the relocated turbo after the cat as well. have to look into engine management as well. i was thinking mega squirt, or just a cheap safc . i'll do my search here shortly to see what is more cost effective... once again, thanks for the welcome. hope i can gain some knowledge from all of you (suspension ).
  17. here the pics to the path, and side link to the 2 dsm's i use to own. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3934107/1995-nissan-pathfinder-xe-sport-utility-4d/page-1 enjoy!
  18. wasnt me that signed up earlier, yet i have been on the site before looking for stuff, but i have officially signed up today. as for the pics, as soon as i take some, i will post them.
  19. Hi all, name is Tony and I have a 95 XE v6. In other words it my girls daily. It is an automatic. It has been in the guard rail as well. I got it in a trade for my 95 GSX-r 750. It could use some work, in which I have been trying to do lately. It has 207k miles on it and still ticking. Yet on its second tranny. Lately I’ve been obsessed with turbo’n it to about 5psi. I come from a dsm turbo background. So I have been around boost for a while. So fabricating parts comes easy for me. Another project that I am working will be an awd custom built gt42r beast. And not the pathfinder…
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