DarkDragon

at first it was reading it from the battery with my multi-meter. anyways, i did a full charge system check with the help of the fsm. all wire are fine. got voltage where it needs to be. got continuity through all the wires. tried to find the 211m plug for the circuit breaker, but i had no luck. where is it? ------------------------------- just got back from advance auto from testing my 2 day old alternator. it failed. this blows. back to napa for a new one. is there something that i should have changed before i get another and blow it as well? thanks

Hey guys, I just did this swap yesterday. In the morning, my old alternator was running 14.3v and when I gave it load by turning on the head lights on high and the ac on full blast the voltage to drop to 13.3 and the car would stall out. In the afternoon I did the swap with a 94 Max alt. It worked great for about 5 minutes. I started the car and my multi-meter read 19v.wow what a jump. I gave it the load test again, dropped to 18v. Got below and tighten up a few thing, when I look back at my meter is reading 12.3v and dropping. Did I just blow my new alternator, fuse, or the flux capacitor? I can’t figure out what went wrong. Please help; I need this vehicle for tomorrow work. Thanks

it ended up being a bad o2 sensor....

For those that are interested, i have made an easy to read ECU pin out for the Pathfinder. I have verified all pins to my 95 PF, XE, Auto Tans. Yours might different. This is what I look for when I am installing a fuel management controller. For the easy install, an Apex’I SAFC I or II works very well with the small mods like intake headers and exhaust. It works great for turbo applications as well. I have made 430whp and 400wtq on an Apex’I SAFC I, on an eagle talon with a 35r supporting mods and stock fuel line. The car was starting to run lean at 27psi. So this little box will support some power. I will be installing a Greddy E-Manage (blue box) to my PF once I get all the bugs out. This one requires a laptop for fine tuning. I can also change injector sizes to have them run like stock. I was running this on my 87 Conquest Turbo. I tuned to 11.3 AFR at 19psi of boost to make 300whp and 325tq. All I did to that car was changed the MAF and ran a -6an fuel line with MSD Booster Pump and an Aeromotive FPR. I may also be able to play with timing on the PF, but I am unsure of that yet. Have to see how the Honda guys retard their timing using this and their V-tech on their distributor. Enjoy. Tony (how can i upload a PDF file?)

Ok here is the deal. The ECU had no codes. So I did the following: Checked battery voltage, 12.89v off and 14.39v car on. Connected my AEM wide band o2 kit to the exhaust, and started the car. WB- 16.2 AFR open loop / idle WB- 16.6 AFR closed loop / idle 1200 RPM cold, down to 1000 RPM warmed up on all 6 plug wires (multi meter) PF starts to stumble in park. Using my digital multi meter at the ecu: MAF Signal 1.103v / idle MAF Signal 1.7v / light rev O2 heater (-0.514v) (pin 106) O2 signal (-0.262v) (pin 19) O2 signal 0.214v heavy revving (pin 19) Driving in my drive way, which is long enough to test a few things, the car was now smooth. My WB read 13.0 AFR in closed loop at WOT up to 30mph as I had to hit the brakes to slow down. I did notice this odd thing, my WB was a steady 15.8AFR which equal to (-0.333v) at idle, 990-1000 rpm. What is this? Is my o2 going bad? The ECU I have looks to be new. In any case the numbers on it are: H9 MECM-V260 A1 4831, if that means anything: Also one last thing, I did notice a loose plug. It’s a blue with white plug, with female pins on it. Colors are: Orange White / Pink Black / empty Any ideal? Thanks a bunch. Tony

Need help here guys/gals… My 95 PF is acting up again. I just changed the plugs, wires, cap, & rotor not even 2 months ago. I cleaned the MAF and changed the fuel filter about 2 weeks ago. Yesterday, started acting like its misfiring. This is only happening when it warmed up, (want to say closed loop) and mostly under load. Once in a while in park or neutral. You can hear the backfire while trying to drive. Yet when the engine is cold, (open loop) and get the lubes up a few minutes…, it runs smoothly. This happens under load as well. In park it free revs. I unplug the MAF and it free revs up to a certain point (rev limit, then the check engine light come on). So I want to rule the MAF out because the ECU sees it connected / unconnected. I have no check engine light with this misfire. could it be the o2 sensor? And the MIL pick it up. Will be checking for codes here in a minute. Please help. Thanks Tony

ok. thanks for the heads up. i did find it in the manual. it was def a pain to trace all the wires to its location. in any case, i have 2 wires that go to a check engine connector for the MIL light, but no actual location. any help would be appriciated... pin: 23-L= 25-G= tony. will be doing a full pin out sheet this weekend with a how to on engine management.

Ok guys/gals, I have been searching this forum and the z31 forum, vg30 forums and pretty much all of the Nissan forums, Google helped. Anyways, I am trying to do a write up here on piggy back engine managements. So my question is: is the Z31 ecu a direct bolt on to the wd21? I mean no change of wires. I do know that the z31 came boosted so the programming is different, but is a direct swap, or are there a few pins that might need swapping? If so, what are the pins that need swapping; I have a better Idea of what I am looking at. One last thing, I do know our distributor works off of cam timing. Is there a vacuum advance like the old conquest and other vehicles? Or is it computerized where I can get to it? Easier if I can find a ecu pin-out for my 95 pathfinder. Thank you for your time, Tony.

nice bov. there is another one on youtube called turkey bov. the guy drives around with it. it quite funny. sorry about the finger. those band saw can be mean.

back from the dead. looking at summit so i can see the price range, i see that the liste p/n on the forum does not match. so, which would work better for my 95 path xe, v6, auto? 6201: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6201/ 6425: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6425/ or can i go with the cheap "Summit Racing" brand? thanks tony

cleaned MAF cleaned TB flushed brake fluid with Napa DOT3 new fuel filter need to do list. -y-pipe fabricated -rear struts -rear bushings -REAR FRAME.... -passanger front tension rod -rear disk conversion long term, if it last. Turbo

i'd be intrested in this. dual pod for 2 1/16 gauge.

New ngk plugs, Cap and Rotor done today.