Tad

Check with these people: http://www.sillaauto.com/home.aspx Although the company we bought our Silla rad from does not list them anymore Silla lists them on their website. We got ours installed last August, our desert temps are not kind to cooling systems and we are quite happy with ours.

The Rancho 44044 front springs us FSJ folks use provide about 2" of lift for us in a SOA setup and about 1" with winch and HD bumpers, they would probably work good for this application as well. Our stock waggy springs don't last long when we go SOA, they just were not designed for those forces.

Besides the 8-lug pattern that's a pretty wide axle, 67" wheel mounting surface. SJ Wagoneer and NT Cherokees come in at about 61" WMS. That's an XJ Wagoneer, same as the smaller Cherokee's. Not your best choice, yes it is a driver drop front axle but it is a 5-lug Dana30.

That's '83-'84 FSJ only. Not a total deal breaker either. You can pull the diff cover, remove the vacuum stuff, slide the engaging collar over and secure it with a hose clamp or a few tack welds. Plug hole in diff cover from vacuum with a large bolt and a oil drain plug washer (it's up top so it will not leak). After that it's like a regular FSJ front D44, we've been doing it for years on full size jeeps. Only issue you get into is that if you break an inner shaft or the collar those parts are '83-'84 specific and getting a bit hard to find, but they are pretty beefy. You can also run the '80-'82 and '85-'91 inner shafts from an FSJ (needs to be same length NT or WT) but the inner oil seal will not make contact on the smaller axle shaft. That gets remedied with this so the gear oil will not leak out on an angle or when making right turns: Not a perfect solution, that would involve pulling the carrier and sourcing the correct size inner oil seal for that side.

We found and installed the radiator listed below. All aluminum, it did great through a nice hot AZ summer.

Thanks for the Turkey wishes. 1.5 would be plenty. The Q is intended to be our long distance rig. Comfortable yet capable with decent MPG (well, decent compared to the 8MPG I get in my jeep). My reasoning (and I could be wrong) with the OME was the use of the HD springs up front for carrying a bit more weight. I'll be replacing my Warn M8000 on the jeep with a Warn VR12000, my intentions are to dump that front plastic on the Q, build a real bumper and use the M8000 for that application. Am I wrong? Will the AC setup handle an extra 125-150lbs out front without sagging too quickly? Sounds doable, I get up that way every 6-8 weeks except for the summer when we do Ouray and the fall when we do Las Cruces. ONAZ have a website? I saw a small forum thing here: http://forums.4wheeloffroad.com/70/6809915/4x4-clubs/offroad-nissans-of-arizona-onaz/index.html Didn't look real active but maybe I am looking in the wrong place. Anyway, sounds like you have a decent build plan, I'll be checking in to watch the progress. On a side note (not trying to tread on anyone's post). I get a bit concerned when I read things like this below, I've come across it several times searching here. I'd love to take some of the strain off the front CV's when traveling but we have the push-button AWD setup. I'm leaning towards not doing the manual hubs, can't afford to trash a t-case. I'm probably confusing things by reading too much but I gather it's ok to do the manual hubs but only unlock them in 2WD? Or is this simply a no-no like it was for many of the FSJ full-time NP cases that had viscous couplers?

We are here in Tucson with a 2000 QX4. Just finished an annual Thanksgiving run last weekend with the FSJ folks up towards the Gila. 2nd trip out in this since we went through the mechanicals, you can pack a ton of crap in one of these. Looking to get our 2" OME lift done during the next round of holidays.

Very nice! Need to do something to both the front and rear of the Q. Way too much plastic.

Don't think there is much difference between 1998 and 2000. Outside to Outside (approx). 41" for the cross bars. 41.5" for the rails. Length (approx). 51" from the back would be at my sun roof. 67" if I didn't care about or have a sunroof. Not sure I would put a lot of weight up there. Whole lot of plastic, doesn't look real sturdy.

Looks good, have the same planned for the Q when it cools off a bit here. Did you take before & after measurements for actual height? Tires are fast becoming a priority here so we are going to have to deal with them pre-suspension.

First post says "waggy D44" Being that it's driver drop that narrows it down to: '80-'82 Wagoneer (avoid '83-'84 as those are vacuum disconnect front axles) '85-'91 Grand Wagoneer '80-'82 Narrow Track Cherokee ('83 was the last year and as above is a vac-disconnect front axle) These are the SJ line, not to be confused with the XJ's that begin in '84 for the Cherokee and '85 for the Wagoneer. You can actually use the vac-disconnect front axles by removing the vacuum switch from the front diff cover, sliding the shift fork over and using a hose clamp to secure it there, common mod for the FSJ group but internal driver side parts for those axles are getting a bit scarce so we typically swap them out when that side breaks. EDIT: Just noticed the trac bar bracket, that makes it from an '86-'91 GW. No trac bars prior to '86 for FSJ's.

How are you going to run it? Linked, SUA, SOA?

I'm curious. 2000 QX4 (Aug 1999 build date). This has what I think would be the "All Mode" transfer Case. I'm pulling up info that says this may not be an option for us. Possible damage to this type of T-Case using manual hubs? Not really interested in better milage, this rig is rather large & heavy anyway. Sure wouldn't mind taking some of the wear & tear off the front driveline components though.

Not trying to be a dick here but I hope you are just kidding with your silly smilie. Finish school, nail down something that will be of value 10 years from now (or more if you can). This is not the economy to fart around with and think your dreams will come true, they won't. I've been there and built many rigs, there will always be another rig. Important stuff come first.

Trans output was the drivers side. Everything went real well. Em's got to travel for a week or two but it's mobile. I'll button up reinstalling the front facia while she is gone and then it's onto the steering rack and suspension.

Not really in a position to do that right now since so much has been removed. I'd really like to get the cooler in place before the weekend so we are not spending time on that and can get things swapped and buttoned up. It's probably a one day job for an experienced mechanic. For us, we hope to have it buttoned up and running in 4 full work days, but we are piddling with other stuff too.

The radiator that arrived is made in China. http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1999+INFINITI+QX4++%2D+3%2E3+liter+V6+RADIATOR+All+Aluminum+Replacement&part_id=6323&aaia_id=1355778 I TIG weld AL reasonably often and the construction looks good. Packaging was decent and the test fit was spot on. The two locations at the top for the shroud are not tapped for the screws that hold the shroud on. Not a big deal, go slow, use lube, just like tapping threads, it would bite to break one off in there. I must say we are really pleased with those 3 spark plug locations It must have taken over an hour to clean all the dirt from around them with a coat hanger and an air gun to just get the socket on. Question: Which of the AT cooler lines is the output from the transmission? Or can I just trace them forward from the tranny?

Parts are here and we made some decent progress over the weekend. We narrowed the TB kits down to 3 and discovered they were all the same company. These folks: http://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-Infiniti-1997-2000/dp/B003BKQJLK http://www.timingbeltkit.com/servlet/the-608/timing-belt,-qx4-timing/Detail So we found them on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timing-Belt-Kit-Infiniti-QX4-1997-1998-1999-2000-3-3L-/360349014955 Not quite that far into it yet to praise or complain since this work only happens on the weekends, Em insists on doing all the work herself, I just point at things. I was able to modify my cheapo HF puller using studs since we couldn't find any bolts long enough on a Sunday. Worked just fine. We are ready to pull the belt, gears and such for this coming Saturday. Seems I am almost at the limit for pic's per post so I'll deal with the radiator that arrived in a separate post.

Anyone use either of the NAPA front axles? https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=NMD+945025&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=NMD+945025&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0 or https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=ATM+0650719&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=ATM+0650719&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0 Price seems really low for new.

Does anyone make an upgraded or HD CV for us? Thought I saw something like that in a build thread but can't seem to find it.

Thank you for the reply 180, Most of the pic's I have been pulling up are "generic" pic's that don't spec out the mounts, I'll go check the VIN later this morning. Anyone have advise on the TB kit above? Or a better purchase option? We'd like to go into it this coming weekend and wind up the TB kit and cooling system by Labor Day.

2nd post here, intro topic is here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30865 We are gearing up to replace the timing belt and cooling system and are looking for a complete TB kit along with replacing the leaky radiator and related hoses/belts. First Question: TB Kit Is this a good deal and are these quality parts? http://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-Infiniti-1997-2000/dp/B003BKQJLK Due to our work schedules we are better off having items mailed in but we sure don't want to go in a year from now a replace some inferior parts. I'm sure there are other kits out there and would really appreciate the direction and guidance of the brain power here. Second Question: Radiator/Cooling System Leaky rad is a plastic cap/Al body version, is that stock? I see radiators online and local with quite a price spread. http://www.completeradiators.com/parts/Infiniti~QX4ZZZZ~2000~V6+3%2E3+Liter+GAS~si=s734065389~CompleteZZRadiators/ (I have had good service from Modine products, have never used Proliance) The RockAuto (link does not work right) goes from around $90 to $130, various manufacturers. I see mention on some rad sites that some are for up to Jan 2000 and after Jan 2000. I can check the VIN for build date but is this a big deal? Looked but maybe I missed it: Do we have a vendor that offers a cooling kit? (rad, upper, lower and bypass hoses)