msavides
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Posts posted by msavides
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so you have to pull the distributor to remove the sensor. ok then swapping it would be easier.
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I would think that my timing is correct as it just passed smog. It would have failed if the timing was off too much.
I will still need to check it after I swap out he distributor
Question
should I swap out the entire distributor or should I just swap out the Crank angle sensor?
what would be easier?
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I think I will head down to the local pick n pull and grab a distributor. They have about 8 compatible vehicles that I can pull it from.
Local auto zone wants $277.00 and does not offer the Crank angle sensor separately.
At least then I am only out $40 if it is not the problem.
Thanks Guys
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is the checking the timing to determine if the crank angle sensor is working?
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Goood thing checking that vacuum hose first thing!
My line of thinking on this is that it may be distributor related. The camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor of the VG30e engine. When there is a big change in engine RPMs under load the ECU is not recieveing signal correctly and the engine will cut off if the ECU doenst recieve an expected signal because the ECU freaks out.
Check to make sure it is correct if it is off it could cause your issue. Even if it isnt the issue it would not hurt to check and adjust if needed!
You can adjust timing on the trucks. Loosen the retaining bolt that holds the distributor to the block slightly and rotate it right or left to advance or retard the engine timing.
The harmonic balancer has 4 slash marks on it. They are usually hard to see on the vehicles as the paint marks have usually worn off a long tim ago. I like to take white out or white paint and fill in the four slash marks and the indicator on the block so I can see them clearly.
The timing should be at 15 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees. For AT vehicles make sure the vehicle in in Neutral with the parking brake on.
Facing the vehicle and engine bay looking down at the harmonic balancer, the four timing slash marks on the balancer are right from left:
TDC (0 degrees)
10 degrees
20 degrees
30 degrees
So ideally you want to be in the middle of the four timing marks.
when i have tried adjusting it in the past. when i move the distributor. the timing changes for a couple of seconds then it goes right back to the previous setting(14 deg). I assumed the computer was correcting it. no matter how much I moved the distributor. If I remember correctly it was stuck on 14 degrees.
The previous owner had the distributor replace before I got it, but that was over 7 years ago. I am not opposed to replacing it, I am well on my way to have replaced everything.
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Get a timing light and check your timing.
Also, check and make sure the small hose that goes from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel pressure regulator is not loose/missing/has cracked ends. this hose is at the back of the engine near #6 cylinder.
I checked that vacuum line first thing. no cracks and it fits pretty tight. It was replaced 3 years ago along with the fuel pressure regulator.
I did not think you could adjust the timing on this engine, in the past every time I tried to adjust it it would go back to where it was. Or are you just saying to check to make sure it is correct?
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Very possible only does it when I punch it. I guess it could also be fuel starvation. the fuel filter only has about 3000 miles on it but it was replaced 4 years ago, so It May need to be changed again.
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only turning or under a load. accelerating after a turn or after a stop sign going straight. I don't think turning has anything to do with it actually, It is a manual transmission so no park. and it will not do it in the driveway in neutral.
has only acted up at normal operating temp, after driving it for a while, never when cold
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LOL I ran the AC the last two days which means it was hot here; that means it is hellish in the central valley! No AC in the garage?
B
I would get a lot more done If I did.
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I will check that stuff out this weekend it is not 108 degrees outside like it was yesterday.
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It just recovers after about 30 secs. yea just feathering the throttle. But it never dies. I don't have to start the engine. again.
I adjusted the TPS per factory service manual. That was the most pain in the but to adjust. Very touchy.
I will check the temp sensor wire for corrosion. again.
I checked the wires to the fuel pump all nice and clean. (the connector that is)
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Ok I am posting this for 2 reasons . 1 to organize my troubleshooting thoughts. 2 to get some feedback on what to try.
My pathfinder has been plagued by this issue for about 3 years now. It has just recently got worse.
3 years ago (aprox) I has having the high idle issue where my pathfinder would idle at about 1500-2000 rpm. I replaced TPS, IIAC,AAV, Mass Air flow wiring (nissan kit), Spark plugs and wires, Cap and rotor, Fuel filter, Fuel pressure regulator, both coolant sensors, all fuel injectors.
What finally fixed the high idle was a replacement MAF sensor. However the stalling out is still there. it does not die. It seems like it dies but my engine is still running when it stalls and I pull over. It intermittently seems to stall on acceleration. The other day it did it after a left turn and acceleration.
I have checked my battery and connections I though it may be a broken battery mount disconnecting wires. But all is good there.
I also have a brand new CAT and O2 sensor. (just got it to pass smog) And before anyone says to asks for codes there are none just 55. This used to happen maybe once a month, it recently went to about once a week and yesterday it did it twice on me.
I am thinking fuel. perhaps my fuel pump, Maybe a chunk of something clogging the sock. I have checked my fuel pressure with a gauge and it was fine. (can't remember the pressure reading) But this seems to be intermittent.
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I've had those looks before as well. I just tell them that I do my own work and know my shiet...
Nice! I'm glad you squeaked by, that still isn't bad by a long shot.
I'd bet that if you had fresh oil and ran it down the freeway 20 miles before you took it in for the test (assuming good ignition components) , it would only register 1/2 that.
I don't know it all, but have been dealing with NorCal smog tests for 30 years (and worked at a test garage a dog life ago) so take that for what it is worth.
B
I also noted before the smog test that my cooling fans were not coming on. I let the smog guy know this, so the smog guy turned on the heater and ac. ( he had to turn the ac off while it was on the dyno) I am sure that cooled it down before the dyno test and could have something to do with it. I guess I gotta chase down the fan controller gremlin now.
I hate not being able to drive my truck that much, Hopefully once I get the fans fixed I can take it on a few trips per week.
I had not changed the oil since the smog 2 years ago. I use mobile one synthetic and like I said there was only few hundred miles on it from the last smog. The oil did not look dirty. I still should have changed the oil before the smog regardless.
2 more year reprieve on my pathfinder
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Well. i just barely passed. my 15mph HC was at 87, max was 88.
This was with my 2 year old cat that was used for about 30 miles and then stored for 2 years, same with the o2 sensor.
I have driven it less than 2000 miles in the past 2 years. I actually did not change the oil before the smog, and I put mid grade fuel (my mistake)
Well hopefully in 2 years I will pass again my correcting with an oil change and low grade fuel. Perhaps some denatured alcohol in the tank as well
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AWESOME!. I hope mine goes as well as yours this weekend. Fingers crossed
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Precise,
I am sure it was the o2 sensor. But like you said smog checks are not cheap. It takes 10 min for me to swap my o2 sensor and cat. Existing o2 sensor was new as well as the cat. I ditched my punched out cat when I lost my low end torque. I am just taking away the chances of wasted money from failing a smog check. I have replaced all of my sensors when I was chasing an eratic idle so both temp sensors were new 3 years ago.
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WOW. smog problems.
Been there and may be going back again. I am in Manteca. The last time I had issues with a smog my numbers did not change at all from the previous 2 years. But California lowered the max emissions 20% so I failed my 2nd year.
That was 2 years ago, My solution then was to buy a new cat and new O2 sensor and use it just for smog. I installed them and got it smogged, then I took them off and put them in a box. Now it is time to re install them and go back. I am due in April so I am going to have to do this in the next couple of weeks. SIgh.
I hope California did not lower them any more. I Got tired of the stock Cat flanges and welded some ball flanges on my exhaust. That way I don't have to mess with gaskets and loosening stock flanges when I swap it out every 2 years.
Let me see if I still have those numbers handy for 2 years ago. I am curious if they changed again.
Here are my numbers before the new cat and new o2 sensor 2 years ago. where is says 2 years ago is now actually 4 years ago and where is says this time or today that was 2 years ago
Uploaded at ImageFra.me -
I just got the rear ones. I paid $99.00US total out the door with shipping.
The seller had them in his garage for a while and sold his pathfinder ages ago. Only had one set
I will post pictures after I mount them, Whenever I get around to mounting them.
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I have been watching ebay for the past 3 years I have only seen them come up twice. 1st one I missed, 2nd one I grabbed.
They are hard to find.
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Wow this thread lost all its traction. (Pun Intended)
To help push this thread along.
I have access to private property up Near long barn (above Sonora)
We could get a trip together to go up there. Actually Lets go anywhere.
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Welcome! Trying to get these California WebWheelers out on trips is like Pulling Teeth (JK) I am guilty too
I am located in Manteca, Ca and I commute to San Carlos 5 days a week. (not in my Pathfinder)
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I have a spare ecm for my 91 I took the board out of the case and dipped it in electronic coating. I still have not tested it to see if it is water tight. I was planning on making a video of starting the pathfinder and then dropping the board into a bucket of water to see is it worked I never got around to doing it.
One of these days I will test to see if it is waterproof. I know that is still works after doing the coating, So the coating did not damage it.
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if your egr temp sensor is there. It may not be defective. What tends to happen is the passage that routes the exhaust gas to the sensor gets gummed up with carbon and does not heat the sensor. That is what happened to mine, All I needed to do was clean out that passage of the carbon build up and then the light went off.
BTW if they did not swap the sensor when you got the replacement engine in and you still have the California ECU then your light would have came on as soon as the replacement engine was installed.
More info.
the egr is controlled by a little electric vacuum switch. Make sure that the vacuum lines did not come disconnected or cracked. this will also cause your Egr not to engage. Egr valve will generally seize and not move if they are bad, I have seen the diaphragm crack as well this could also be the issue.
Hope this helps
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here is what i was sent.
Came with a drill bit and aluminum rivets. The fuel door does not even come close to the notch. the notch does not need to be there at all. WOW!
I assume you remove the stock flares. even though it looks like these things will go right over the stock ones.
91 pathfinder intermittent stalling under acceleration (Not dieing)
in The Garage
Posted
Does that include the sensors that come in the aftermarket distributors? If so I better make sure I am getting a genuine Nissan distributor at the junk yard.