msavides
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Posts posted by msavides
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AJ503
I thought anything older than 20 years was DEQ exempt in Oregon.
I just moved to the Medford area and I still have not registered my 91 pathfinder here yet. Wondering what I am going to have to go through to get it registered.
Any input would be helpful.
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After having HID tilting lights (I hated them) I tried Led bulbs. (Cheap set off ebay), They do not have the hot spots and weird spread like the HIDs. They were quite bright.
However.
They only lasted about 4 months. The led actually cracked and failed.
They are not ready for prime time.
If you are going to get them. Get them from lifetime led, then at least you can get them replaced for free when they fail
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I have the same exact gauge issues as the OP.
I think this is more to do with defective gauges, not the sending units. I recently swapped out my entire fuel pump,/ gauge assembly for out of a junkyard 95 year model.
No change in gauge operation.
and now I don't think my low fuel light is working. I put 19.8 gals of gas in this morning and my light never came on. I have been driving to work in back for a week with my fuel gauge as low as it can go. I got tired worrying if my light was working or not so I filled up.
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I am in process of relocating to the Medford area. In fact My pathfinder is already there. anybody around the medford area that knows of some wheeling places let me know.
I don't know where there is any place to wheel around here. I don't want to go off in a strange new place on my own and get lost
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r50's only huh... haters..LOL
I am in Oregon anyways this weekend. Looks like my pathfinder is staying here too.
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did you upgrade the steering components?
make sure each component moves freely on its own.
I had a similar issue with my Calmini idler arm , the bushings were installed too tight and it was completely immovable, by hand. I replaced the bushings with ones from bandit bushings and everything has been great since.
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Mine is still working great. Never does it slip even a little bit. there has been a few times in the wrong gear downshifting and a few time romping on it, Yes it grabs, yes it will bring the car to a halt and jerk you around.
The clutch stopped all chattering after a good break in at hollister doing the jungle trail. was still not used to the clutch so I stalled it about a half dozen times.
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finished my passenger side upper and lower ball joints today. pumped them full of synthetic chassis grease, also lubed the rear tire carrier hinges.
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K9sar you do realize you did the same thing 2 days in a row.
lol
I just got done replacing my upper and lower ball joints on the drivers side.(finally with zerk fittings) will do the passenger side monday.
oh also while I was at it I replaced the front say bushings.
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I actually took 2 of those skid plates and welded them together. They will support the vehicle now.. LOL
I actually drilled holes every 2 sq inches and plug welded the holes. This thing is solid. I posted up here a couple of years ago.
The thing weighs about 50 lbs
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Thanks guys! I replaced both of my auto locking hubs with mile parkers and the pulling went away! 3 years of dealing with that issue and its finally over....I think. I guess the true test will come when the snow starts to fall. unfortunately though, now that that wheel locks in it exposes another issue that wasn't noticeable before... my upper control arm bushings are totally shot so there is a ton of play in my wheel...It isn't noticeable in two wheel drive, but as soon as its in four wheel it feels like im driving on a washboard road. At least it drives straight though lol. now I guess I better replace the UCA with after market ones.... Also, the CV boot is torn, so I will be replacing that soon as well. This vehicle is going to nickel and dime me to death.
wow I missed this post before I posted my last one. lol
I had an issue where one of my auto locking hubs would lock and unlock constantly. when I would drive normally it would pull to one side then come back to center over and over. If I gave it some gas it would stay straight for a bit then I would hear a loud bang.(like a shotgun). I replaced my hubs and that all went away. getting some UCA that correct the angles from a lift will help ball joints and Half shafts last longer by running them a better angles. Depending on how much you lift your pathfinder they may help a little or a lot.
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did the problem go away when they lowered the ride height?
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I imagine it is the same as on my wd21 or did they go serpentine in the r50? you have to loosen the nut in the center of the adjuster pully, then loosen the tensioner and the belt should loosen. BTW that bearing tends to go bad often. I have been through 3 of them so far.
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do you have auto-locking hubs. perhaps something is wrong one side or the other either locking or not locking. I would consider getting some manual hubs. warns or mile markers.
I guess something could be wrong with your front diff as well, maybe something came loose and jammed to lock just one side.
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Ok. went to PNP today. I got a fuel pump assembly out of a 1995.
There seemed to be a slight difference between mine and the one I got out of the 1995.
Mine seemd to have an auto adjuster for the height. when installed there is a little foot that presses on the bottom of the tank and pushes this spring assembly up. I can see where it has been rubbing and where it sits when removed from the tank.
At first glance when I was comparing them I freaked out cause the mine was longer. But then I realized that is shrinks down when installed.
I notices a slight build up on sentiment on the screen of mine. the one from PNP was totally clean. I also noticed that the sensor for the fuel light was longer on mine. I think it still activates at the same level just the sensor was a different size. My fuel tank was clean I saw no particles or anything in the tank. so that rules out something clogging the pickup and then moving around.
I also did some more research and I read that a clogged air filter could cause this as well. I had installed a foam air filter a couple of years ago, so I picked up a new fram paper one at the auto parts store. also picked up a new fuel filter.
After installing the PNP pump assembly I noticed that my fuel gauge moved really slowly when i turned on the ignition. It took about a min to finally come to rest at just above E. I am not sure if this is normal or not but I know my old one never showed anything under 1/4 tank. and it was always 1/4 off except when the tank was full it indicated it was full. so the fact that it is showing anything under 1/4 makes me happy. other happiness is it started up after a few seconds of fuel priming cranks. so no doa pump.
Now I will have to take a few trips.
It never acts up on the first trip. it is always on the way back from a trip. It acted up on the way back from PNP. Then again after I stopped at the auto parts store. When it acts up. If I press on the gas it does nothing. If I pump the gas it will sputter then nothing. If I keep pumping the gas it will keep doing this. The only thing to make it drive normal again is to let off the gas for about 15 to 20 secs then it will drive normal again. I sure hope it is the fuel pump. But something is telling me that it is not.
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today it did it again.
it only seems to do this after a decent trip and then parking for a bit. then on the next trip it starts to act up. it is getting so bad now that I have to pull over on the side of the road. It does not die but it will not accelerate. If I floor it when it is acting up it will start to rev but then just make low thumping noises from the engine bay.
I am starting to think it may be fuel related. It seems to be ok after turn off the ignition and then start it back up after about 30 secs. Perhaps something in the tank getting picked up and stopping flow.
I may go to pick n Pull and grab a fuel pump assembly and swap it out to see if that remedies the problem.
Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Well it looks like it was not the distributor. after doing great for a few 150 mile trips, yesterday it acted up on my again. just going straight no turns or anything. I am going to try and swap out the ECU now.
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Yea good old harbor freight. I have yet to buy something like this from harbor freight that I did not have to strengthen, Yes Invest in that welder. I am sure it will work for a little while but sooner or later it will show it's weakness. That is where the welder will come in.
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You could probably weld something up using the tow hook bolts, Like B said The steel stock would eat up the $50 and if you had to have someone weld it up for you it would add much more money to the project.
Cables going from the front of the truck to the back would probably cost as much as just putting a 2nd battery in the trunk for the winch. However I would definitely want a non-spillable battery back there if I did that.
Also the rear hitch winch mount is going to cost something as well unless you can weld one up yourself. assuming you already have a tow hitch. If not you will have that cost too.
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I drove it about 50 miles yesterday and everything was fine, However it acted up so intermittently that i am still not going to pronounce it fixed. It had a lot more get up when accelerating, so either it was a bad distributor or the timing was off, I am not sure cause I did not check the timing before I swapped the distributor,.
I also noticed a miss. it is very slight , I only noticed it because the timing light would miss a flash every so often (could have been the timing light also) . So that being said if it is a miss it might be on cylinder 1 or on all of them. I left the rotor that came with the pick n pull distributor on it, so it could be that also. I will probably swap that out this week.
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I actually put my pulley on wrong after a timing belt change. for some reason I thought that one of the bolt hole was offset enough that would only allow it to fit one way. I was wrong, and now that I think about it if they did that it would not be very balanced.
anyways it was not that hard to re-index. I actually did not have to remove anything, I just loosened all the belts and took the bolts out and spun it and put the bolts back in.
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You will probably have to reindex your pulley. The lower pulley if removed and put back on in the wrong orientation will cause this.
I think there was a thread on this in the garage a few years ago.
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Ok,
I went to pick n pull and got a distributor off the newest compatible vehicle I could find. I ended up pulling it off a 1997 Nissan Quest.
I did a little searching on this forum and found that the pulley that is marked with 7 lines goes like this -5 0 5 10 15 20 25.
I set the timing to just the left side of the 5th line. Strange that now I was able to change the timing and before I could not. I think it is because I was unable to get my idle low enough due to my MAF being faulty.
I think I am now all set. I hope this fixes the problem, since it was intermittent I will have to drive it more to see if it is actually fixed. I took the cover off the old distributor and looked at the CAS wheel and it looked like there was some corrosion or something on one of the square notches on the edge of the wheel. I don't know how you are suppose to replace just the CAS it looks to be sealed in there and it looks pretty fragile.
The distributor I pulled out of mine had a genuine Nissan re-manufactured sticker on it. I am not sure whether to keep it or turn it in for a core for $5
Thanks for all the help guys I will be sure to report back as to the result of the repair attempt. I know that adds value to this thread. So many threads someone has a problem and they never come back in to say what the actual problem was.
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Goood thing checking that vacuum hose first thing!
My line of thinking on this is that it may be distributor related. The camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor of the VG30e engine. When there is a big change in engine RPMs under load the ECU is not recieveing signal correctly and the engine will cut off if the ECU doenst recieve an expected signal because the ECU freaks out.
Check to make sure it is correct if it is off it could cause your issue. Even if it isnt the issue it would not hurt to check and adjust if needed!
You can adjust timing on the trucks. Loosen the retaining bolt that holds the distributor to the block slightly and rotate it right or left to advance or retard the engine timing.
The harmonic balancer has 4 slash marks on it. They are usually hard to see on the vehicles as the paint marks have usually worn off a long tim ago. I like to take white out or white paint and fill in the four slash marks and the indicator on the block so I can see them clearly.
The timing should be at 15 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees. For AT vehicles make sure the vehicle in in Neutral with the parking brake on.
Facing the vehicle and engine bay looking down at the harmonic balancer, the four timing slash marks on the balancer are right from left:
TDC (0 degrees)
10 degrees
20 degrees
30 degrees
So ideally you want to be in the middle of the four timing marks.
Ok, on mine the marks on on the pulley and there is a pointer coming out to point to the marks on the pulley. There are seven marks. Am I to assume that the first mark on the left hand side is O degrees. and each mark is 10 degrees.
I put it between the 2nd and third mark from the left. ( standing in front of the vehicle looking in over the radiator)
let me know if this is correct.
thanks
High idle after valve cover gasket change
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I did the same thing when I did my Timing belt/waterpump.