msavides
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Posts posted by msavides
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I remember that write up. I think I remember it cautioning against tightening it up when the wheels were straight. or was it when the wheels were all the way right or left. There was a specific warning that if over tightened when the wheels were in the wrong position and you then turned the wheel it would fork it up really good.
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I just tested 91 SE. with the engine running (i must have tried this about 50 times) I slowly pressed the brake pedal, it goes down completely smoothly then just firms up and stops. I even tried to push the pedal harder still nothing. I even tried to push my pedal quickly, still no bump.
are there any adjustments on the brake pedal push rod that may have been adjusted?
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On 7/18/2018 at 10:45 PM, Slartibartfast said:
I have replaced all the soft lines! I had braided steel on for a while but the more I researched them, the less I trusted them. They're uncoated and apparently those ones tend to abrade themselves to death under the braid, and I never noticed a difference in braking performance vs the rubber lines anyway. Switching between rubber and braided lines didn't get the rears working, either.
At this point I'll probably end up replacing hard lines.
been running braided SS lines on my 91 for over 10 years now. no issues so far. I did not feel a difference between the rubber and ss either.
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Man, You got some patience. If I were this far into it I would have said F it and replaced all the soft lines on the entire system, Maybe even with braided Stainless steel lines.
I probably will be going through this with my 91. In fact I already have the Braided stainless steel lines. Just got my rebuilt master. The 91 has rear drums and I have already replaced the Wheel cylinders. just need to replace front calipers and I will have everything replaced. That is worst case.
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I would think if the fronts have air in them then the pressure is going to go to the path of least resistance. ( shortest lines first) the air is going to compress easier that the fluid.
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Well then That is where I will start with my 1990 pathfinder. I was hoping your problem did not have anything to do with ABS since my 90 does not have it. I will have to locate a Booster for my 90 and see if that fixes it.
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I reread your post from the beginning trying to determine when you first experienced the soft pedal.
Only thing I can think of is that you may have one or both bad calipers. Since the pedal was fine before replacing those. You also said that when you release the brake pedal the calipers have quite a bit of space between the pads and the pistons. That is not right. The piston should still be resting on the pad with the pedal released. Do both front calipers do this or is it just one?
I have had a leaking master before and besides running out of fluid there was no performance issue with the master.
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Wow ,, I think I am pretty lucky then. I replaced my leaking master on my 1991 se and had just as firm petal as always. It was a discounted Master from Rock auto. I think I paid $39 for it.
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Unplugging the ABS brick (not really a pump, it's just two solenoids and an accumulator in there) would open-circuit both solenoids, which would keep the light on. Wouldn't surprise me if they moved the module around between years. (I don't have an FSM between '89 and '94 to confirm.) If they originally had it in front of the shifters, but relo'd it to clear something, it was probably the ducting for the optional rear passenger footwell vents. I don't think the US-market WD21 ever came with airbags.
I wish I had an update on mine, but I don't.
Miy abs light would come on after about a min after starting, when I unplugged the Modulater, pump, whatever they call it (seen it called a few different names) it would come on immediately. I just took a stab in the dark and replaced it. It took a few tries to get one from a junkyard, but I finally got one and it fixed the problem.
yea your right air bags I don't think were until 97ish. I seem to remember some box just above the floor vents . but I can't remember exactly. I know there is not anything under the passenger seat though.
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I'm a bit late to this thread but wow! I had a similar problem as to what you are describing, but after swapping my MC all my issues seem to be resolved...
Considering I just went down to my local O' Reily's and had them order a new one, I'm glad the one I got was the correct one and not for the drums as you said. My rear brakes definitely don't work near as well as my fronts, I'm assuming the ABS system is at fault for that... now if only I could find that damn computer lol.
I believe it is under the bottom of the center dash cluster under the radio at the very bottom behind the shifters. I have a 1991 SE and mine is not under the seat either.
I believe they moved the abs computer under the seat for newer models with air bags and put the air bag computer in the place of the ABS computer on these later models.
I had a problem with my ABS light being on and it ended up being The ABS pump. Once I replaced it the light went off. Try unplugging the abs pump and see if it changes anything
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ABS pump has a bleeder screw as well. a lot of people miss that after opening up the system and trying to get all the air out.
But I am having this issue with a 1990 without ABS
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I have the same problem with 1990 I just picked up no abs. Replaced the rear shoes, wheel cylinders front shoes, calipers and did a brake fluid change the brakes are still mushy.
Would be interested in what you find out. My 1991 SE brakes with abs are Perfect
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You have to pull the clip from the bottom of the shroud and then it will clear the Fan, pulling the radiator and shroud up together after removing the hoses and the 2 mounting bolts on the top of the radiator.
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Most Napa auto parts stores have the equipment to Make high pressure Hoses
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I put in a manual transmission in my 91 that was meant for a 89 Hardbody I only had to change the linkage arm for the 4WD shifter.
It was a Nissan NOS ( NEW OLD STOCK) Got it for $899 Trans and Tcase.
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here is a pic of the stock bolt and the replacement. The one pictured is longer than the ones I used
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BTW never had 10.9 or stock bolt snap on me and I used to jump my pathfinder lol. I think it was a fluke. What torque are you using?
Stock is 80-108 ft-lb.
I torqued to 110 ft lbs. but To be honest I am not sure what the last alignment guy torqued it to.
I choked it up to a defective bolt. I don't jump my pathfinder so I have no idea why it broke.
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I have never replace my bolts.. but one of mine snapped a long time ago and I took it into a shop (before i started working on it on my own) and they welded a bolt in there somehow. I took it in to get aligned last year and they said they couldn't because there was no way they could get shims in the upper control arm where that bolt was welded. (apparently they just welded the whole thing so there's no adjustment anymore) My alignment is terrible now because of that and I want to fix it and somehow get that welded bolt out of there.
Any recommendations??
When you put new bolts in what did you do?? Did you drill the old one out of the frame and then thread it with a tap?? Or do you go through the frame and put a nut on one side?
I drilled the broken bolt and used a bolt extractor and unthreaded the broken bolt, I replaced it with another 10.9 bolt.
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got the info off a local 4x4 forum. I had never heard of it either. nor have I tried it, but the replys from the people who tried it said it worked really well, in addition It apparently cleans off rusty parts really well.
I have no idea where they got the info either. but since it is not published for profit I trust it a bit more than if PB blaster or WD40 published the specs.
a little googling found where the info came from . apparently If you spray a heavily rusted part with it... you will see smoke/vapor rise from the part. It's pretty scary, but it works really really well.
For all of you that are mechanically inclined..... Penetrating Oils Compared A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best! Here's the summary of the test results:
Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds
The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. -
My bad I guess it was 50/50 ATF and acetone. I hear that Lacquer thinner works too.
for the nerds here are the specs
> No Oil used ……………………516 foot pounds
> WD-40 ………………………238 foot pounds
> PB Blaster ……………………214 foot pounds
> Liquid Wrench …………………127 foot pounds
> Kano Kroil ……………………106 foot pounds
> ATF/Acetone mix…………………53 foot pounds -
the best penetrant is 50/50 mix of ATF and lacquer thinner, and cheap too
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SO.
since the 10.9 bolt snapped. should I go with 8.8 so it does not snap but instead bends, Or should I go with 12.9 where it is harder but will still snap at failure.
Anyone have any experiences with different hardness of bolts in different situations.
I know in this application it is shear load as well so I am not sure where this falls.
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my bolts are 10.9 bolts.( don't know where I got 10.8 from) the longer ones were put in, just to get more threads in the frame. I did not put any more shims in. I have not had it re aligned since i put the bolts in years ago. They had been in for about 8 years
I did not wheel it very hard around the time when the bolt snapped, I don't think it is possible for the bolt to have snapped without knowing it as it would throw my alignment way off.
I am going to have to get it realigned now anyways since I am not sure If I lost any shims when the bolt snapped
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I noticed the other day that my pathfinder is wondering all over the road. I also noticed a clunk when backing out of a parking space.
This morning I decided to jack it up and take a look. I was shocked to find my wheel at a weird angle, when I jacked it up the wheel went straight again. I grabbed the wheel and pulled and then I saw my upper control arm separate from the frame to reveal a snapped off bolt.
So I take the wheel off and get to drilling out that bolt. The bolt had not loosened before it had snapped, it was tight when it snapped.
I had previously replaced them with longer bolts.
After drilling a hole all the way through the bolt I had to go get some bolt extractor to remove it. It came out without much fuss
The replacement bolts where 10.8 bolts. Now I am worried that they are not strong enough and need some advice on what grade bolts I should be using there.
So for now I have put in 2 new 10.8 bolts and am wondering if it was just a fluke or do I need to replace them with stronger bolts
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mark
Mushy brakes
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by msavides
I adjusted mine ages ago. I believe mine was not a screwdriver it was a stud sticking out of the nut to lock it in place, I used a (I think) 4 or 5 mm open end and a 12 mm boxen for the lock nut. I could not tell much difference in adjusting it.