Slartibartfast

On acceleration, particularly hard acceleration, the engine twists a little on its mounts. Less if the mounts are good, quite a bit if one of the mounts is shot. That could be tugging on a weak connection and making it cut out when you put your foot down. If it was fuel starvation, I'd expect it to bog/cough/sputter instead of dying straight out. And I know the starter doesn't care if there's fuel pressure because I ran my '95 out of gas at least once and it still cranked over like nothing was wrong.

Well, it can't hurt! Hopefully your tractor drive goes well. Which line was it hung up on? I don't remember finding clips on any of the lines when I took the intake off my '93 to excavate the rat crap.

What would the advantage be with an RB25? I'm not sure the VG30DETT would even fit in the engine bay. A few people have mounted turbos to the VG30E and even then it looks like a tight fit.

My 3/93 is square tooth. It should be on the white sticker by the latch on the driver's door. I've been told June of '93 was when they made the change.

Good to hear you got it. And yeah, those clips can be annoying, especially in confined spaces.

Can you make it cut out by wiggling stuff? +1 on checking the battery connections. If they check out, and the fuse links (U shaped wires hanging off the positive terminal) look alright, I would start it and try to make it cut out. Wiggle the key, wiggle the fuse links, whatever might be vibrating or shifting around while you're driving. I suspect something is loose/corroded in there. Low fuel pressure will not stop the motor from cranking. It won't catch or run, but it'll turn over just fine. And running out of gas doesn't stop it dead in its tracks the way no spark does. That's what's got me thinking your issue is electrical rather than fuel delivery.

First off, are you sure you have to evacuate the A/C system? The compressor is hooked up via flexible lines and I would expect it to have enough slack to let you push or twist it out of your way once it's unbolted from the engine. If you do have to evacuate the system, it is best to have it done professionally. Unless your '91 has been converted, it's probably still running R12, which is a greenhouse gas and eats ozone. If it's an R134a system (or it's been converted), then it won't eat ozone but it's still got some greenhouse to it. Oddly enough, though, it's still legal to use as a propellant, like in computer dusters or air horns. If either refrigerant does get out, there are a few immediate risks. It'll decompose into toxic stuff if heated or burned. Releasing any refrigerant sucks in loads of heat (that's how it works) and can give you serious frostbite if you aren't careful about how you release it. The gas is heavier than air, so if it gets in your lungs, it can stay there and asphyxiate you. And finally, your profile says you live in California, so I assume that means Arnold Schwarzenegger will come drop a Prius on you if he finds out what you've done. It doesn't sound like the truck is in any state to drive to an A/C shop. You might try calling around to see if there's a shop with a portable system who'd be willing to come to you. I've read that some places will evacuate R12 and then put it back in for you afterwards.

I don't remember quite how they went when I put mine back together, and it's kinda hard to see now with the intake on. I numbered mine before removing them but IIRC the wiring is tight enough that you'd have a hard time doing them up out of sequence. If you're not sure, you could check the color codes on the injector wires against the diagram in the service manual.

I did the belt on my '93 last summer. It wasn't too bad, but I did have a couple snags. First, while you're in there, plan on doing everything. Bypass hose, crank seal, cam seals, everything. I skipped the crank seal because it didn't look like it was leaking and it started piddling as soon as I had it back together. (It was much easier to take apart the second time, I'll give it that.) I made a seal puller out of a screwdriver but I'm sure there's a proper tool. I also welded a couple pegs to a steel rod to hold the cam sprockets while I removed and reinstalled the cam sprocket bolts (to do the seals). You could probably improvise with vise grips and the old belt, or (again) find a proper tool. I did buy a proper puller for the balancer. The crank bolt might give you a bad time if you've got an auto trans. I got lucky and it came out easily with an electric impact that just barely fit into the available space. I put it back in the same way. IIRC you can pull the starter and jam the flywheel with a crowbar or something to hold the crank in position if it comes to that.

The R50 and WD22 are on very different chassis, so I'd be surprised if it bolted up.

If you are going to keep it, probably best to do that belt sooner rather than later, partially because it's old and partially because the coolant probably isn't doing it any favors. As for whether to keep it, well, I guess that depends on what you'd use it for and how you like it vs the rav4.

The fenders themselves are easy enough to remove, but the inner fender wells/rad support are welded to the cab.

Like Cuong said, make sure you're checking with it warmed up and all. Even then it can be a little finicky about showing up properly on the stick. I overfilled mine too, and drained out some excess with the transmission drain plug. Messy but got the job done. I've read that a significant overfill will make the trans act up, but I have no idea how overfull it has to be to cause problems.

Does sound like a distributor problem.

The hazards of drag racing a Pathfinder?

Big blue tarp and a Hazard Freight moving blanket?

Somebody wired it up to the hood pin?

Same motor. Only differences are the belt sprockets like PATJ said and also the EGR system on the '92 probably won't have a BPT valve like your 95 does. You could put the '95 EGR on the '92 if you want to retain that, but it won't make much a difference either way. For the straight axle question, most people use a Wagoneer axle build the rest, but there are options, depending on what you're looking to spend.

I haven't seen an R50 version unfortunately.

Good way to check--hadn't thought of that. Sorry to hear that's what it is though.

I imagine you could just run the wires that used to go to the park/neutral switch to the clutch switch instead, and then tap into that harness if you want an interlock bypass switch.

Does sound like the fuel system. If you can have someone else turn the ignition on, and listen from under the tank, you should be able to hear the pump from under there. If you want you can also check the pump connections through that cover under the rear carpet. Bad/loose wiring could be heating up as the pump runs and breaking contact. When it is running, does it choke/die under load? If so then yeah, do the fuel filter. If not, well, wouldn't hurt to do the filter, but I doubt it's that. Vac lines, similar story, worth checking but probably not the cause. The pressure regulator vac line was unhooked on my '93 when I got it and it didn't stall randomly at idle. It didn't run very well, either, but that was because the MAF was mostly blocked off by a rat's nest. I've heard of a bad coolant temp sensor making the engine stall out once it warms up, and then start fine again when it's cooled down. I would expect that to take more than a minute or so to cool down before it'll restart though. You might check the temp sensor and its connector if you run out of other ideas. It's the one with two wires on the coolant neck that goes to the top tank on the radiator.

Hacksaw sounds like it would take all week. I got a cheap inverter from Hazard Freight ($40 or so) a while back that will run my 4" angle grinder off a car battery. I wouldn't call it an ideal setup but it beats the hell out of a hacksaw. I cut down a concrete-filled metal post with it a few months ago and it worked much better than the cordless sawzall. If you don't have a grinder, or sparks are a concern, I'll bet a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade would work about as well as a sawzall for what you need it to do here. The other thing I'd look at is how the body repair manual shows that panel being held on. If you can just cut the spot welds with a hole saw or something and then pull the seam sealer away you might save yourself some time there. Looks like some rust under the battery tray in that one.

Disk brakes or drum? Could just be seized caliper pins or something. Agreed on the CRV, but it beats having a wheel lock up.

Index of /FSM/Pathfinder Download the 2002 manual, open the AT section, and go through the troubleshooting.