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The_Magicians_Eye

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Posts posted by The_Magicians_Eye

  1. Hello, sorry to get back so late! I've been out of the country for three months. Yes the NM-20 is what you want. Wait until you test the solenoids and temp sensors as per the book before you buy them. They aren't cheap and they may be just fine. Go by the book and perform all the troubleshooting and testing matrices before and after the rebuild, it will help you to understand what exactly is wrong. Our trucks have a built in test system for the tranny, the procedure is there in the book and you can find out if an electronic problem exists or not.

     

    Where do I get this book?

  2. They will be fine. Just be ready to have an exhaust shot help with the install. They are not bolt on even thought they look like it. The flange that bolts to the tail pipe isn't the same size. The cross over pipe is a pain in the ass to connect too. I have the pacesetter painted version. I'm happy with them but all of the above mentioned is something to think about. Don't be mad if you run into those problems. You where warned lol.

  3. I'm trying to get rid of the stock fuel injection setup. This will be for my 95 project "A Tail of Two Sisters" in the hard core fab area. She's going to be a rock buggy type rig and I want to keep things as simple as possible. If something goes wrong on the trail I don't want to be hunting out a possible EFI effecting sensor or something stupid like that. The simpler the better but as you all know carbs suck when dealing with changes in elevation and extreme angles. Yes I know they now have 4x4 carbs but in my opinion they aren't worth the risk. I'd rather just run a simple propane setup from "Got Propane". They have a setup that works with a standard two barrel intake manifold.

     

    So now that I know where to get the intake. I just need info on the ignition system. I see that some of those 510 guys have found some VG30S distributors that work with carbs in the middle east but that was years and years ago from what I'm finding in my searches. And back then it was very hard to find them. I'm wanting to know what my options are now in 2013 and if there are any good options. I guess the issue if the stock VG30E or I is advanced via the ECU. The carb distributor has a vacuum advance on it.

  4. Anyone hear of someone changing their VG30 to run off propane? I'm very interested in this but I need info on a mechanical ignition system and who sells a manifold setup to run a 2 barrel carb?

    I've seen it done when searching but haven't found any solid leads to getting a manifold and the ignition system. I have a VG30E but I'd like to get rid of anything complicated as far electronics go.

    ​Does anyone make an adapter for the VG30I manifold? Even if it's a weld on adapter.

  5. So you're the one that ended out with this awesome rig! I thought this was gone... Saw the build pics but read it was sold or parted out or something. Don't put the jeep grill on it. I'm pretty sure the tube work in the front \ / was put there as a subtle indication that this is a Nissan.

    nissan_titan-crew-cab_2010_photos_truck_

  6. Didn't get much done today so I won't bother with pics or video. I did want to say this though. Anyone needing pics or information on how something is mounted or whatever please do ask before it's to late. This whole truck is going to be taken apart. Top to bottom, front to back.

     

    Also I climbed under the truck tonight and the frame from along the doors us rusted but is very much salvageable. Still unsure what the plan will be. I'm sure once I get this completely torn down to nothing but the metal I'll spend a few hours staring at it trying to come up with a plan. The front part of the frame (fire wall forward will for sure be cut off and rebuilt It's a mess up there. The frame from the upper link mount back will be removed as well.

    Here is the problem I'm having. The debate in my head. Maybe some of you with experience can chime in.

    • Do I want it to be street legal? If so I need DOT windshield and need to choose is I want to register it as a Pathfinder or a homemade vehicle here in NY. I plan on beating the hell out of it once it's done so I'm not sure street legal really matters because I'll more than likely want to tow it if I plan on beating it up like that. However It will be branded with my business name and I'd like to drive it around town just because. What's more important? This can get really damn expesive! Advice?
    • Do I want it sealed from the weather? It rains and snows up here plus it can get real damn cold when the wind is hitting you. Do I want a warm weather sun shine only rig?
    • Do I want to use any of the stock body at all? If so how much? Axle width and tire size is an issue. I plan on finding a matching pair of D44 or D60 axles or something equally as good. I'd rather not have to worry about cutting the axles to shorten them if I don't have to. The problem with that would be the tires looking really damn stupid sticking way out from the stock body. As a result I'm leaning toward building my own body over a tube chassis. My issue is that I really would like this to have signs of actually looking like it use to be a Nissan Pathfinder at one point in time.
    • Here is my last issue. Do I use the VG30 + auto trans + stock transfer case with a doubler or put a small block Chevy engine in running of propane + Turbo400 auto trans + and I'm unsure about the transfer case in that setup? I have the VG30 setup in hand other than the doubler. However I may have a 305 Chevy in my hands shortly. Even if I don't 350s are dirt cheap. The perks of a small block Chevy would be: I can get parts for it anywhere. I can replace it easily for little money if it take a @!*% on me. I can get a ton of power out of it with little money or effort. Far more power than I'll ever be able to get out of that VG30 for the price. But then again do I really want that power? That could lead to a bunch of broken parts.

      ADVICE PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

      lmao Any and all ideas are open. How often do you have an opinion with someone else's build? Idea's followed up with photos would be awesome!!!

      And if anyone knows how to use that damn link calculator floating around pirate4x4 please PM me. We need to talk. I need to figure out what link setup I'm going to go with. I've made up my mind. I'm going to build it all myself. If I fskc it up I'll just cut it off and try it again lol.
  7. Hey ME where did you get your roof rack, I like very much. :aok:

     

    Thank you I built it out of scrap metal. I like the design but it's sloppy. I plan on making a new one. This one will be for sale soon but only to people that want to come pick it up. My new one I'm hoping to design it where I can box it up and ship it. We'll see though. I have allot of work to do before I get to that point.

  8. It's a central NY car. That can happen out here. They put so much salt on these roads out here. You might as well drive in the ocean lol. Shockingly enough the body don't seem to be in that bad of shape. Not sure about the floor just yet but the doors are all ok and the main part of the body seems like it has very little rust. The frame might not be worth trying to save. If that's the case expect a tube frame buggy with pathfinder parts. But again, we'll see how things go as I keep taking this apart. The tow truck I was expecting to work on today might not be showing up until later tonight or tomorrow. So looks like I'll start tearing off anything attached to the engine itself. I need to get a good look at that block and see how much rust is on that. I'm a little worried right now Need to climb under it and look at that trans too.

    I'm not going to loose any money off of it regardless. I only paid $500 for her and I'm going to get way more than that in parts. I've got a plan b, c, d, e and f already in the back of my mind depending on how much of this I can actually use. This just shows me that I need to do everything possible to protect my 91 from rust. And my Saab for that matter. Looks like I'll be buying a ton of Chassis Saver while living in this state lol.

  9. Depending on how much of the body you plan on cutting out think about it this way, If you remove the whole body section from the B pillar back it will make cutting out the rust and welding in new metal a whole lot easier. You could even cut out the rear section of the frame and make a custom rear section like in the photo below.

     

    31736372344207341_F7MLaSbl_222.jpg

    If you click on the photo you will get a high res version.

     

    The rear will absolutely be cut off. I need to keep it a 4 seater though but I need to come up with a plan. Maybe winging this isn't the best approach but it's what I plan on doing. My only issue is that it rains up here so I need to make sure it's sealed from the outside elements. I'm not a fan of being cold and wet while wheeling lol.

     

    Any and all ideas are very much welcome. Just bring pics like you did so I can see what you're talking about ;)

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