Nice186

is there a how to on how to build your own relay? i did it before on my other pathy but i cant seem to find it anymore...

how much? lol im in the market for a bumper (front and back)

when you guys did the lift did you guys needed to extend any hoses or drop the radiator?

i think that might be a terrano.... i know they call it a pathfinder in the video but you and i both know that there are alot of different stuff they make for our trucks outside the US ... cough cough flares haha

:jig:

Also im gonna add this http://performance.ourdealsrock.net/02product/converters/displaydirectfit.asp?directfit=22760 A direct fit cat for our truck only cost $108 free shipping... pretty much the same price everywhere... Thought it would leave a dent in my wallet but this doesn't seem like a bad price... for a straight bolt on

i think i may have just answered my own question!!!! lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONVERTER-TEST-PIPE-90-94-NISSAN-PICKUP-PATHFINDER-ALTIMA-MAXIMA-TESTPIPE-/390409780124?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item5ae63c7b9c&vxp=mtr now they say this is 2.25 piping and the stock is 1 7/8th will this still work? or do i need and adapter? if i do need an adapter, wouldnt it shift everything off alil? would buying that gibson cat back still work? (as in just bolt right up?) link to the cat back http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LG1OH6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

how would you by pass the cat? my cat smells like eggs and its really bad and if i can just bypass it vs. buying a new cat it might be cheaper... i heard they make test pipes in place of the cat... do they make one for the pathy? i dont have a welder so i cant make one and going to the shop would cost more then buying a cat, (magaflow cat = $60-$80) Im saying this cause i want to buy the Gibson cat back exhaust and just bolt it in, and if there is a test pipe(or whatever its called) in place of the cat i can do this!!!! :lmao: :lmao:

Nismo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! holy fskc i got soooo many questions for you about that rail!!! now to switch from lets say gear 1 to 2, do you need to put in on neutral? or just leave it on drive the whole time? i really wanna do this to my rig, is there an step by step to install this?

does it matter that my truck came stock with 235/75/15?

i am running 31x10.5 tires on 15x8 with 3.75 backspacing and when i take full turns the front tires rub on the inner plastic of the wheel wells, how do i fix this without taking the plastic off.. stock height also

thanks for that, well i finally did it! it took about 5 hours to just take the old stater out! BUT TI WAS ALL WORTH IT! the shield is the trick! once you take it off its simple to pull it from the front then just slide the new one in... now the new one didnt have screw holes for the shield so i just tapes the sides so it wont more.. is this a problem if the shield falls off? i mean the wire is attached to the shield itself so its not going anywhere but the screws would have made it more secured..

i am doing this tomorrow as of now my truck is sitting outside with the starter unbolted but stuck inbetween the pipes and everything else... the heat shield is the only thing stopping it from coming out!. i got one out of 3 screws off of it, cant get the other too as its cramp as F$%K!! any tips on this?! also i did buy a prostart (pepboys brand) remanufacture starter.... was this a good idea? or should i just go back and buy a new one? Cause i dont wanna replace my starter again!

i installed this in my truck... works great!

True that brotha!!!! haha And yes the front is pretty heavy but the thing you guys can't see nor could even tell is that I replaced the two( now three, third is on the bottom can't see in my photo) pipes from the stock heavy metal it was, to aluminum pipes... now I know someone is gonna say "well whats the point of that? Now its weaker!" My answer to that is... well, Im not gonna go drive into a car just for the fun of it lol. I dont plan on crashing anytime soon but if I do and it happens to be a car, first thing that would happen is i would probably run over it! haha

wow idk what to say to that guys haha i feel like i been smacked multi times. first off i dont see deer by me, second yes i got it for looks, third i would love a full armor but that cost $$$ and im a full time student so thats not gonna happen anytime soon and lastly i got this "brush guard" for $20... couldnt say no to that! and now back on topic from me going to the sand pit they didnt flicker or turn off but this was pretty light offroading

the two on the bull guard are the hids

I got a set of HIDs KC's floods lights on my brush guard and they are hella bright!!! Retail they go for over $1k but I got them on eBay on bid(lucky me) for $150. I was going crazy when I won! Haha best $150 I ever spend!!!

I'm sorry I didn't read the whole article on that page the h.o.ds I got didn't have a pigtail it was just a direct plug in http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=330674820312&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=40771382555 This is the one I got.... Yes I know it's made by china or whatever but I wanted to try it out... At the end it's better then my stock, may not be the best but at least I have pure white vs. piss yellow headlights haha

I just installed some H.O.D bulbs and they are amazing!! Yes you read that right H.O.D not HIDs http://oraclelights.com/automotive-lighting-products/ORACLE-HOD-Bulbs Can be found cheaper on eBay... I bought mine for $18.99 and I'm loving them, much brighter then stock

LMAFO!!!!

Yeah mine is 94 so round it is and thanks for the code!!!

ok so i am about to buy the parts off of rockauto and i see there are two different types of timing belts, one is square tooth and the other is round, whats the differents and which is better?

Ok so the sprocket on the top left should point 45 degrees to the left and the right sprocket should point 45 degrees to the right. And the bottom sprocket should be lined up with the belt line right? Ok I'm still confused on the tightness part, I read over the manual and I still don't get it. Once you line up the lines to the new belt and all, you then tighten the tenser wheel till the belt is tight that you can flip it more the 90 degrees? Can I just used a wrench to tighten the tenser? Or do I need a special tool that shows how much pounds I put onto it?

Surgery went well, I can't do anything till tomorrow afternoon. But when it comes around I will try to find the weep hose and check that out, Also so when the balancer pulley (which is the bottom one right?) lines up with the mark on the belt and I check the rotor is on first gear, that means it tdc? Cause that's much easier then taking the first spark plug and sticking something in there to see if it compressed or not I will read about the tension on the belt when I get home Once again thanks all for the help