feyded

Well I woke up this morning and figured Id check everything. The oil is fine, seems kind of high, the coolant is fine as well. I started her up, she ran fine till she started warming up, then she started putting I guess would be a way to describe it, but the oil light never managed to come on again. Im thinking that the coolant I changed out had Bar's Head Gasket stuff in it which was what I figured but denying at the same time, as she has never done this till I changed the coolant. Im going to replace the fluid with some head gasket filler again(anyone have any preferences?) and see if that fixes her. Other than that shes a champ, just love the fact that the engine is a fresh install(from Japan) and the guys mechanic before me didnt replace any gasket or check the heads before installing the engine, and just used some Bar's instead. Oil Pressure is good on the truck, sitting high until she starts to warm up then the engine starts actin up.. Thank you all so far for the input, if this 'simple' fix doesnt show any results then Ill head into the suggestions provided.

I was driving home tonight from work, the truck I noticed was acting a little funny(figured I was just imagining things as I hadnt driven her in a bit) with very little power going up a hill I never struggle on. Anyways, Im 4 miles from home(30 mile drive home) and my Oil light comes on while Im losing power, I instantly turn the engine off as soon as I saw the light, and coast to the side. I have not attempted to start her again and decided its safest to just tow her home, as Im afraid of permanent damage from the lack of oil pressure.. I have plenty oil on the dipstick after reading it a good 15 times while waiting for the tow, and Im not leaking anything either. The engine bay smelled like burning oil as soon as I pulled over though.. I also did not see any signs of oil anywhere on the manifolds or throughout the engine bay. What Im wondering now though, what would be a good way to check if this was a sign, and something is ABOUT to go out for good.. Rather, where should I start looking for the cause of this. Any help would be amazing =) Thanks again. 1987 Nissan Pathfinder, V6 5SP 4x4

Id go with what Nunya linked, I just had to use those, you hammer them on, and impact them off, work great. I replaced the security nuts with some regular lugs, as mine were all stripped, and no key of any sort would work with em(and because I think security nuts are worthless, if someone wants what you have bad enough they wont stop till they find a way, given enough time).

Im sure its already crossed your mind, but if at all possible Id get a coil compressor(rent one, or harbor freight), it will definitely give you that last amount of space ya need to seat it properly. I just had htis same issue as well, sway bar disconnected completely and all, the stock springs came right out, but the aftermarket ones I could not get in at all without a compressor.. Just figured Id throw it out there, but Im sure its already crossed your mind. Otherwise, BE CAREFUL, thats a dangerous setup in my opinion.

I paid $3,000 for mine, and its that EXACT vehicle, same specs and everything. Difference is mine had a new engine in it.. I feel it was worth it, mine was in very good condition out of all the others Ive seen. Id pay 3k for that thing as well though. For the condition of that though, Id say it might even be worth the 3250, depends on the maintenance done(ball joints, bearings, etc).. If ya get it, can I have the tach? =p

Got the new 500? How is it if ya dont mind me asking(and how much did ya get her for?), really hope they bring the Abarth here, very cool little cars with alot of character, definitely reminds me of Nissans(the juke, murano, leaf, etc..). On topic: I fixed my wipers because one of my co-workers thought it'd be fun to take em off and put them on backwards, then drove away in my Fusion watching her asking myself why I didnt drive her home.

Im assuming you're referring to the multi-link suspension setup. As far as I know, you do not need to buy any parts to increase their length, Ive not had any problems, and Ive also not had to do anything about the Panhard rod. I could be wrong, but Ive not had any problems with my lift without modifying those items.

I have a friend that goes to Walker like every other weekend, Ill ask him, but last week he went and didnt tell me of anything out of the ordinary.. he rides the same set trails every time for the most part which are scattered throughout Walker so Im sure if he'd seen anything he'd of told me. Although when I went like 3 weeks ago, a couple trails were closed for reconstruction, nothing excessive though. As far as knowledge of the trails, Ive got nothing.. =/

Sounds like ya need to crank/re-index those torsion bars or get new ones if those are completely shot(like mine ALMOST are).. As far as UCA's/suspension lift I just installed Rough Country's UCA's(Superlift UCA's painted black). As far as ball joint correction they do what they are advertised to do when you crank the torsion bars, also these things have grease zerks so that was a plus. You would probably learn more from searching around here(unless you already have) and making your own opinions. As long as you change your rear coils and shocks, and crank your stock torsion bars up then you can achieve the 3" they advertise for the aftermarket UCA's. Im not able to cause my torsion bars are about shot, so I need to get some new ones from 4x4parts.com as even after re-indexing them I still have a rake. Check out 4x4parts.com like Mauitrailguy stated, you can buy their kit(s), or you can try to piece together one for cheaper. Ive got no information on BL I can provide as I havent installed mine yet, just waiting! Hope that helps, everyone here is willing to help you when you have questions or concerns(Im sure as you've already seen).

Guess I am missing this infamous drain tube, assuming the reason why is because the radiator is aftermarket as it was replaced when the engine(under the suspicion that it caused the last engine to overheat and seize as the last owner put it) was replaced with a JDM VG30i. By the way thanks for the info on plugs Silverton and Nunya.

Do these vehicles have a tendency to prefer a certain brand of plug over another? I ask cause my F-150 had a problem with anything other than Motorcraft. Also, I replaced the coolant in the truck, the drain plug couldnt be in a better spot for making messes! I refilled it and added Amsoil Dominator Coolant Boost, figured Id give a try.. Anyone use it before, so far so good though Im definitely running cooler than before, but that could be from having fresh fluid as well.

The Xterra is hands down the better vehicle for off roading, atleast more so than an FJ IMO.. Have 2 friends that own an FJ(2007 & 2006), constant problems for one of em, 4WD wont engage, and the tranny is slipping. My dad has an Xterra(2006), that is truly a tank, the only complaint he has is the rear wheels dont like to keep traction without bags of sand over the rear axle. It has a ton of power, and they are the same type of 'rugged' nice that FJ's are. Every single recall(which to be honest have been a few) that HAS happened to his vehicle was handled by Nissan with no questions asked even when he was over the stated mileage it should be covered. As for a nicer vehicle Id also suggest to get the newer pathy that others have been suggesting, although 4Runners look pretty nice as well.. If I wanted a vehicle like you are stating though, Id go Xterra and not think twice, they can be equipped with more creature comforts.

Got my gloves, pretty nice, but Id of preferred the glasses. Although, the gloves are great for handling solvents/grease since they are coated. Cant complain about free stuff, they worked great when I used them to swap out/clean my hubs.

Does anyone know anything about the brand 'SKF' for wheel bearings, Ive never heard of them but I looked on their website and they seem to be a pretty big company. Rockauto is limited for brands it seems for front wheel bearings. Thanks

Thanks for the heads up, will definitely keep checking em.

Installed my MM hubs, was also going to install my new valve cover gaskets, but it seems after tightening the screws as I was told by some members on the forum. The leak is gone, amazing! The MM hubs are quite nice actually when I started looking more at them, for 80$ they are a steal, even came with all the needed hardware AND a allen key! I love this vehicle so much, you drive one and its just incredibly clear why you own one, SMOOTH ride offroad(after installing my new RS9000xl's that is), and on road..

Amsoil is what I run in all my vehicles. The fluid I like to claim saved my tranny in my F150, as it was slipping very badly before I swapped in Amsoil. I run it in the pathy as well, but regardless of what you choose to run, as others have stated make sure its ONLY GL4 compatible.

MM hubs came in, they definitely dont feel even remotely as solid as the stock manual locking hubs on the Pickup's.. Guess they will work though, goin to throw them on tomorrow =)

Do you know if that gauge is more responsive than the stock ones? The 87-89's(might be other years as well, but those years are what Im knowledgeable in) gauges respond slow to oil pressure, as well as the fuel gauge, not sure if you've seen what Im talking about.. just curious though if an aftermarket gauge is much more responsive.. Thanks.

Once you add them to cart, they are 81$, but then you need to pay for tax, regardless I havent found cheaper. Hope some have benefited from the sale!

Any suggestions on what brand of belt to buy as well as tensioner? I can order them from Factorynissanparts.com, but they are cheaper on rockauto.com, just curious if anyone has used anything aside from factory parts for this job.

4wheelparts.com is having a sale that is going to end in about 9 hrs, MM hubs are 81$ with free shipping.. just a heads up, as well as some other things. Figured Id let everyone know as I jumped on the sale instantly. Go check and see if they have something you are on the fence about, anything over 75$ is free shipping... Hope this is beneficial to some. This is for 87-89's.

Actually just installed my Raybestos Professional Grade Ball joints, these things are much thicker(heavier duty) than the stock ball joints I pulled off. To be honest though, 2/4 of the ball joints I pulled off were still good(24 year old ball joints), and I replaced all the stock ones that HAD zerks on them with sealed units.. which to me seems incredibly dumb, but I have faith I suppose in the Raybestos holding up(as well as being able to grease them with a needle).. Just thought Id share my experience with the Raybestos.

No I agree, facts and evidence on your statements only supports your claims, as far as I can say though my experiences are strictly personal and I cant really prove any facts except what Ive experienced. I will one day own a Jag after seeing the pure luxury they are as well as the reliability that comes with it.. I just hope mine lives up to the ones my parents have owned. Take that for whats it worth I suppose on me having faith in their reliability.

Ah I see your post of links of Jag's, it almost makes me want to buy one cause they are so cheap.. I agree about Rangers as well, they definitely do NOT get the credit they deserve, and there are oodles of parts out there for them as well, but they are a great truck that is very cheap. We use Rangers at work, the way people drive them(because they arent paying for them, its the governments problem if they break right?) just reassures me that Rangers are definitely a cheap work horse that can get most any job done and still take more beatings long after. Its just a shame the Ranger is scheduled to be phased out as they are not selling hardly any compared to the Tacomas.. I just really hope that Frontiers arent next as they are consistently rated/reviewed to be the better truck at EVERYTHING than a Tacoma(and because I love those little trucks), too bad the general consumer doesnt care about the intricacies of the pickup, just the word of mouth of Toyota's 'reliability' from 20-30 years ago that isnt relevant to the current market..