feyded

Thanks Precise for the great website, I will be ordering the gaskets just to replace it for good measure(havent had a project in a while, and its dirt cheap) and secure it with bolts instead.

Thank you everyone for the help, I will take the advice of the thread and try tightening first(it's an import engine with supposedly around 30k miles from Japan). I figured if the gaskets hadn't been replaced already, they are probably comin soon because the age of the engine. This forum is amazing with the mass amounts of informative posts, and helpful people. As far as brands for valve cover gaskets, what would be the best brand to look for?

I ended up finding a picture in one the threads that was linked by Kingman, if it is yours(I have it bookmarked for when the time comes)thank you for it.

I havent driven, or even started my truck for about a week and a half. Well today I decided to drive it, I started it, but then noticed that there was a very noticable oil burning smell. I popped the hood only to see smoke, the smoke looked to be coming from the exhaust manifold, like oil dripped onto it. I checked the oil, it is plenty high still, so it must not be a lot of oil leaking, but I havent yet seen any oil collecting under the truck either while it was parked. The only thing I can think of is the valve cover gasket is shot, it was doing it on both manifolds as well. Its a 1987 Pathy VG30i 4x4. Any help or guidance as to what it might be would be greatly appreciative, I tried searching and couldnt find anything directly related to my issue.

I definitely searched, that is how I found this page.. I guess I just didnt find that one, or didnt type in the right keywords. Thanks so much though for the links, very appreciative.

I would like to get the AC rear coils, but they are extra, and Im trying to pinch every penny I can. As far as the JGC front coils, they will need to be trimmed, or rather the pig tail cut off and then they slip right in like normal? Thanks for all the help thus far.

Do the OEM JGC v8 coil springs(the front ones are what I want?) lift the rear of our trucks 3"? If not what SHOULD I be looking for exactly, thanks for any help, been trying to search the crap out of this before I place my order on my lift parts.

Just want to say thanks again to the contributors of this thread, and how much I love this forum haha.

Sounds good, that was what I thought but its better to be safe than broke. Thank you so much Simon. Doesnt sound like it makes sense to get the WHOLE lift package then.

I have a question regarding the route some are suggesting to be taken, with buying each thing individually as you need. Will the AC HD T-bars make ANY difference for me if I dont replace them, but instead replace the rear springs and UCA+shocks all around(to achieve the 3" lift)?

He is right. Id jack up the truck and see if the front wheel moves up and down freely on both sides(easiest way to check if wheel bearings are shot).

Hah those bushing's still have another 1,000,000 miles left in them! If you're like me though and the slightest squeak annoys you and you HAVE to fix it, I can understand haha. Very easy to replace though if you're going that route.

So the shocks that come with the 3" SL 'shouldnt' limit my flex in the rear any, or am I reading that wrong. Thanks for the reply by the way.

I had a similar problem like this on my Nissan Pickup 1989, I bled the system thinking it'd fix it, but come to find out I made it worse, the Clutch Damper ended up being fully clogged after I tried to bleed it. I had to fully bypass it with a new line straight from the Clutch Master Cylinder to the Clutch Slave Cylinder, worked perfectly. Just a suggestion, if that doesnt work, the only other thing I can offer is that the Throwout bearing isnt/wasnt installed correctly. The clutch system is quite simple, you should be able to troubleshoot is pretty easily once you know where to start. I ended up replacing my Clutch Master Cylinder, Clutch Slave Cylinder, only to find out it was the damper causing my clutch to prematurely engage(ruined my throwout bearing, so I ended up replacing the whole clutch system even though the Clutch plate was perfect..). Good luck, hope that helps guide you a wee bit.

Id love to go, hopefully by the time the date rolls around, I will have quite a few of my mods done. As of right now though, count me in(hopefully Im not on deployment)!

So after reading this very informative thread, Im still having trouble on whether or not when I buy my 3" SL that comes with the RS9000XL shocks, will my rear flex be limited by the shocks that come with the lift(assuming I have a rear sway quick disconnect installed)? Would love any input from someone.

Would it be possible to get any information pertaining to the Tach, wiring diagram, or perhaps where everything is located so I can check it physically. My tach doesnt work, but the previous owner said it did before the new engine was installed.. but Im not sure if he was just full of it. Thanks