bmcgawain

Removed all seats and carpeting to clean. Soaked carpets in strong degreaser and powerwashed away 24 years of dirt. Then I revealed all the rusted areas under my rear seats.... So sad. My seatbelt bracket was so rusted the whole mount tore off when I tried to unbolt it. Oh, and then I cleaned out my blower motor. It was completly packed full of leaves. Looked like a mouse nest.

Vacuum leaks are checked off the list. Plugs may be a little black from my rich fuel though. I can't get the idle lower that 1200rpm. That's after operating temp. Cold idle is 2200-2300rpm. More smoke in the start up than warmed. Still smokes on hard pull when warmed too. I have heard a clogged injector tip can cause some of these same issues. Especially if the injector is stuck open. Cap rotor and wires new with recent install. Anything else?

So it was my tps. This is confirmed. I replaced it with the one from the donor engine and set it to factory specs. Now I am battling a high idle and smoke during hard revs and start up. Definately fuel smoke, not oil. I'm wondering about that injector. I'm gonna go to the previous post to test it out. If it's not the injector, any other suggestions?

The tps schematic is perfect. Thanks!

Using my ECM diagnostics I have discovered my tps does not pass it's simple red light test. So now I need to test it's voltage outputs. I don't know what the specs are though Anyone have a FSM that could fill me in on the info?

Spark and fuel are there. I'm still suspicious of wiring or shorting. But I really need to check this tps. No where online can I find the specs for that either

Ok, here is the update. After replacing that MAF. So I went back to the trouble codes and pulled that code 12 MAF. So I cleared it and moved on. Code has not came back on since. Next I went through all 5 test modes and I found that in test 4 the tps failed. No red led. So I pulled the connector and found 2 out of 3 pins to have green crusty corrosion. Cleaned and routed wiring in a less binding way than before. Next I went to crank engine and I'm at a crank no start. WTF?! So any guesses now? Maybe someone can look up voltage specks for me? That would rule.

So back to the ECM and I pulled another code 12 MAF. Then I put the ECM in diagnostic mode number 4 and checked the tps. Absolutely nothing happened. No red led. So does anyone have the wiring schematics to test this? I saw a downloadable service manual link, but I am mobile Internet only. Sadly on an iPhone too. Not good for PDF files:( (I know there are apps and all that, but another day) Anyone know the specs on that tps?

A higher octane fuel I don't think would matter. If anything the more pure refined product would burn more complete and burn easier. That's why a forced induction requires it. Lean condition would be the result if it were causing the problem. And lean is mean, right?!

Yeah I'm not going to swap in a used engine and be a retard. Timming is gravy. Like I mentioned before. Ran perfect with old MAF, just wouldn't rev. Timming was and is still set to 12 degrees btdc. I'm suspecting the few input sensors on this engine. O2 is a likely culprit, but I am looking into the cylinder head temp sensor as well. Tps checked good and my MAF is good. Not much left to check.

FYI, auto correct pisses me off. Anyone ever heard of a brodsky brush?! Lol

Well the checkin of the wires sounds plausible. I'm gonna give this another shot since it's free. I have a can of corrosion cleaner that I am gonna blast into every connector. Then I am gonna use a nylon Brodsky brush to clean all the terminals. Inspecting these all before I reconnect. As far as fuel goes I filled the tank with 91 premium and then I added a fuel treatment. I changed te fuel filter at that time too. I guess I did crank on it before the filter change, but I wasn't really that bad. I've seen worse working at the Nissan dealership. Some have gas that's brown like mud when you change them. Either way I am dedicating today for repairs. Appreciate the suggestions. Keep them coming.

Omg. I am getting hacked. So if you have followed any of my post then skip to the next paragraph. For those that need the details, here you go. I replaced my original engine with a used engine from Texas. (supposedly a JDM) whatever. Either way I used the original tb, intake and lower plenum. I didn't trust the used one. Looked full of dirt. So the perfectly working upper end of the vg30i came off the original. Worked when the head gasket blew (no rebuild as the heads cracked and I couldn't buy a head for a 1/87), but it didn't work after I installed it on the replacement. The engine idled and ran great except it would not rev past 3,000 rpm. No matter what. I actually drove it 200 miles this way. Nothing changed. No biggie I thought. I checked the ECM trouble codes and found a 12 and a 43 (I think that is right). Basically MAF and heated O2 sensor. Whatever. So I tested the MAF through the on board diagnostics and it failed. So... Then I bought another MAF from a guy on here and it was a known good sensor. The sensor looked great and when I installed it it changed my issue. Now instead of not being able to rev past 3,000 rpm, it idles like a beast. It also chugged black smoke like crazy. I let it warm up and it started to get a lot better. I thought maybe the ECM just needed a minute to clear up. When it did I took it out for a test drive. It ran beautiful! Full power, redline and all. I could smell that it was running rich, but hardly and black smoke. Only at high rmp. But half way home it all changed. Instantly it went back to not being able to rev past 3,000 rpm and before I knew it the only way I could get it off idle was if the clutch was disengaged. Neutral it would misfire and sputter to 4,500 rpm, but under a load it had zero power. Not even a little. Then it started to die and chug black smoke on start up. Then it was back to the loping idle and black clouds of smoke. A lot of useless details here I'm sure, but I thought it wasweird how it got better and then worse. This all just happened so I haven't checked the ECM for any codes yet. Anyone seen this happen to their rig? Maybe you have some suggestions for a guy tring to drive this ole' 87 home soon? I will post any new findings tomorrow morning. Hopefully this is common enough to pinpoint the issue without me losing my temper and posting the whole thing in the for sale section

Would you be interested in selling that extra? I would like to get this thing running ASAP. Name your price plus shipping and I can paypal it tonight

Oh, and as far as corrosion, I did check the plug on the mass air flow, but nothing. I haven't messed too much with the tps. But, I did literally just connect all these plugs about two weeks ago as the engine was just installed and hooked up. I did make a conscious effort to inspect every plug end prior to plugging it in. Nothing looked bad. As far as testing the harness.... Not really sure where to start. Volt meter and continuity test??

Have you ever had problems with the tps causing the same issue I'm having? I purchased an air flow sensor and the parts house was tring to tell me th air flow meter from a 3.3 was the same for mine. After lots of conversation I convinced him otherwise. Bottom line, they cannot even order the correct part on the 87. Now I'm back to searching. Anyone know where to buy one?

Well I pulled a code 12 MAF and a code 33 O2 sensor. Purchased a MAF from Orielly's today. Gonna cross my fingers that it fixes everything. Thanks for the reminders of how to retrieve those codes. The how to section is great

Have you had the same problem? I have another used one to throw at it, but I cant afford to just buy one arbitrarily. Any info on how to test one?

I am excited that my jdm crate engine is now installed and functional But, I cannot figure out why it only revs to 3,000 rpm. I have replaced the old ass fuel filter and checked for any loss of ignition such as arching of the wires, cap, or rotor. All are good at this point. (I used the misting water bottle trick at night to confirm no arch) Now I am starting to speculate, but nothing concrete. TPS? Coolant Temp Sensor (the one to the ecm, not gauge), Mass air flow? How do I check any of these? Now keep in mind that although i have a used engine that had been sitting in a warehouse for god nows how long,I did swap the entire intake plenum, throttle body and air ducting (timming belt, water pump etc). I wanted to make sure that the used engine wasnt full of debris in the intake system. That being said, the swapped parts worked perfect on the original engine all the way up to the head gasket blowing. So my thoughts were if it worked before, why not now? Maybe im missing something obvious here? Any suggestions would be awesome! Im trying to drive this beast 200 miles south this weekend -peace

no, the turbo z31

I thought the turbo 300zx had the higher flow oil pump. Maybe I am confused. I need to read more about those. Guess I really dont need to mess with it. The stock pump will be fine as it was designed for the engine. Guess I just like the sound of more oil pressure