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NissanNismoZ

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Posts posted by NissanNismoZ

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted · Edited by NissanNismoZ

    That's why i've sort of stayed back..im trying to figure this out..OK. so..should i ground the wire coming from the harness as well? coz i just left it sitting there, but i DID ground teh wire coming from the MAF.

    Pin 17..im not sure if its even supposed to be grounded, because when i check for volts, i get the battery voltage... and when B is NOT grounded, it sputters and coughs and tries to stall out..so im ASSUMING B is ground. right?

    So..here's what im thinking, from experience...

    A = Signal

    B = Ground

    C = Reference voltage.

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    (i may not have had it hooked up right) but i hooked it back up to stock..and.. it stumbled HORRIBLY like put..put..put.. i was waiting for it to stall out..so i hooked it back up how i had it, to a ground, and it started up running smoothly..so..maybe it is a ground wire?

    Alarm goes off on it's own ?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I have a '97 Pathfinder, and the alarm goes off on it's own, and I don't have a remote as I don't use the alarm. In the past I was able to shut it off by inserting the key in the doorlock, apparently that tells the alarm it's a good key and not jimmied and is supposed to shut it off ? The dealership is 100Km away and i really don't trust them, they charged $1600 to someone else for the same problem.

    Appreciate any help or tips, so I can start it, then I'll go buy another remote,

    Cheers Bob.

     

     

    Though i;'m not sure if the R50's have it, try looking under the driver seat, or even the passenger seat for a sensitivty switch, and switching it to low. :)

    Hope this helps!

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Pin 17 does connect to the MAF as well, so you should ensure that wire is also good... it might be used to control the amount of current flowing in the wire (wire needs to stay in a certain temperature range). The third wire to the MAF seems to be connected to the positive terminal of the battery through a relay. I don't really understand the MAF grounding situation.

     

     

    Pin 17 seems to decrease on throttle, so it may be just varying to keep the temperature evened out.. so my understanding is this..

    One wire connects for power (all sensors need at least 5v to operate(REFERENCE wire))

    One wire is the output (SIGNAL wire)

    And the other wire is the ground..which, i made my own to the front of the engine.. it could even be my ground i made, but i made two just in case..im wondering if i should just snip the connector off the other pathy and put it on mine.. as long as the other connector is good, i should be able to splice into it.. right?

    Thanks!! :) I feel like we may be getting somewhere..finally!

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Your pin 16 results are bad. See EF+EC page 129 of the 95 FSM. If you pass the other MAF tests in the FSM by measuring resistances in the maf and by probing the maf at the connector when running, which it sounds like you do, then you have a problem with your wiring between the MAF and ECU. I don't know what pin 17 does.

     

    Edit: FYI, if you haven't read this chapter, might be helpful...

    http://www.nicoclub....thfinder/ec.pdf

     

    THANK YOU!!

    So..got some more comments..and was told i should replace what usually goes wrong; the MAF connector..

    Thanks!! Your feedback was very appreciated and i actualyl read a LOT of the link you posted.. (my FSM is missing that..for some reason..) and it helped me understand a lot more, at least..

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Okay..so i did a lot of work and got nowhere..

    Bought a newer ECU, put it in, CEL came on within half a mile.

    Fixed my vacuum leak (the small line at the top of the intake)

    and removed my intake plenum to unpinch the injector wire, foudn ot the plastic piece around it was melted, repaired it and straightened it out

    let the battery stay disconnected for 30 minutes, got in, let ir run, revved it some, turned it off, repeated the process 3 times, no CEL

    put it in reverse to pull out, not far after reversing, CEL comes on, and stays on. All the same codes with both computers.

    I'm at a total LOSS and have no idea what to do.. I've done all the testing, and got results (good or bad, i dont know, they seemed fine.) i dont know what to do!!

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Your ECU is designed by engineers who know what shielding is. While not impossible I find this extremely unlikely. If anything the ECU would cause interference in your speaker signal.

     

    that it did!

    hmm..any other ideas on what i should do? im at a loss..

    thanks!

    Reconnect battery = keyless failure?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Okay, so i have further information..

    Today i got adventurous and thought id take the driver seat out.. so.

    I found out, i reconnect it by the main harness and..tada! it works!!

    I did more testing and came to the conclusion of, the alarm system does NOT like to be connected while the battery is being reconnected.. for some odd reason.. buut, its working and if anyone knows a way around this, just let me know! :D

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    In further news, someone recently told me about my rear speaker wires running beside the ECU could be causing interference and causing a CEL?

    It is odd that after having the radio off for a while, the CEL went off. BUT. im not saying this is the fix until i hit another 1000 miles with no CEL.

    Does anyone else agree this could cause interference? Or is the ECU too shielded for that?

    Thanks!

    Anyone recognize this problem?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hmmm..Try and note the different driving conditions compared to when it does it, and when it runs perfect..

    1.)Fuel pump, fuel pump relay (sticking?)

    2.)When it keeps turning over and over, does it smell like fuel? Also, try and check for spark..if you have a multimeter, check and see that there is little to VERY LOW resistance in your spark plug wires..

    3.)Other than that im thinking a bad ground may be at fault..

    4.)Have you checked your ignition coil?

    5.)Tach jumping..you mean the tach going haywire or just jumping normally when its starting?

    6.)Could always check the plug to the dizzy and the coil..

    7.) If the contacts are dirty, clean the contacts on the inside of the dizzy cap and rotor, it may help as well!

    Hope this gets us closer to something! I figure these would be the easiest to check before getting into it too seriously unless its just your rotor button sticking..

    Reconnect battery = keyless failure?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Some of the LE Pathys had a driver side courtesy lamp above the brake pedal. BTW its an easy install to do, just go to a junk yard, find a hardbody pickup or LE pathy and put it on yours, just plugs right in, the harness is under there unused. You can do the same for a glove box light :)

     

    The hatch sensor might very well be the culprit in this instance, try disconnecting it and see if it will work. The vehicle wont armt with the hood up, thats what I was refering too. Definately check the hood pin for crud and that the wire is good.

    It really sounds to me that the vehicle thinks there is a door open/pin short.

     

    That would be nice!

    But like..do they have the little red light on the dash itself? Like, say.. the light will look like a car with a door open..

    Where is the hatch sensor? I've looked around and cant seem to find it..

    I do know that i tried leaving the pathy's battery disconnected for 3 hours..and no luck.. (with the switch off)

    The hood pin switch is good, i even took a wire brush to clean the contacts

    Thanks :)

    Reconnect battery = keyless failure?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    The flashing light is an error indicator. Does it automatically start flashing as soon as you hook the battery up or when you try to arm the system with the the remote after hooking the battery back up?

     

    Will the system do any of the following:

    1) Obey the remote?

    2) Arm/disarm with the driver door key?

    3) Stop flashing when you change the switch position to auto or impact?

    4) make any audiable sounds from the horn?

     

    I hate to ask but are all the doors closed along with the hood and the pin switches including the one for the hood working properly? Is the hood pin opening and closing properly? (seen this cause problems from rust/gunk buildup as its exposed to the outside)

     

    Yo can try also, change the switch on to off, unplug the battery and re-attach, turn back to auto or impact and then try arming.

     

    The flashing light DOES start flashing as soon as its reconnected..

    1) No, not even flash a light or anything.

    2) No

    3) No

    4) Well..this one is sorta a no and a yes? When i reconnect the battery, it makes a quick beep. When i disco the battery..it takes a few seconds, then beeps

     

    Actually, i had the hood open when i reconnected the battery.. but id assume it would allow this?

    Not a bad idea, i'll try that now! Thanks for the reply!! It's really appreciated. :)

    BTW Do pathys have a door light on the dash? coz i've never seen one.. you'd think if my switches werent working my int. lights wouldnt work as well?

    My hatch sensor is kinda iffy..sometimes when i open it the light immediately comes on.. sometimes i have to open/close it twice or more to get the light to come on automatically..

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Woo! Okay..i did it.. Here's the information i got:

    Pin 16 (Idle) .07v

    Pin 16 (2000 RPM) .10v

    Pin 17 (Idle) 13.17v

    Pin 17 (2000 RPM) 12.75v

     

    What exactly are pin 16 and 17?

    16 seemed to act like the MAF (increases on throttle)

    17 acted..odd. the harder i pushed on the pedal, the voltage went down??

     

    Thanks everyone..i really appreciate the help!!!

    CEL light on...again.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Okay..so after an hour of looking through the FSM..i found out it was in the electrical foldout..and not the electrical section..heh.

    (You know what they say about assuming.....) So i'm supposing ill be pulling the seat tomorrow and checking to see what pins 16 & 17 say

    actually..i remember when i first started fixing the pathy (before i bought it) the ECU was laying there unbolted and unplugged...)

    last i remember there were a lot of extra plugs under there...are those just extras or something? I'll post more specific information on that tomorrow with a picture..

    and im also no longer saying "my CEL is gone" until i get 500 miles of no CEL! it keeps getting my hopes up for no reason...

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