NissanNismoZ
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Posts posted by NissanNismoZ
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Yeah, EF/EC 88 and 89 has the speed sensor troubleshooting. Did you do that procedure?
You sir, deserve a +1
THANK you!!
I understand the cruise not working is a problem. Got to have cruise control!
James
Yeah, that's my view on it!
Otherwise it's a tease.. "haha you have cruise control, but you cant use me! HA!"
So, i've never removed my cluster before..here's to hoping i dont mess something up...
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The only reason I'm concerned with it is it aggravates me having the light and I can't use my cruise control..which is very useful on those nights my feet are killing me after work.. But, I'm still nowhere..I remember seeing something on a site once showing it going into one of the harness' on the passenger side lifter cover.. But I haven't managed to find it again.. Thanks for the info, and if anyone knows anything on this, I'll definitely appreciate it, as it's the last thing I have to fix as far as my ECU is concerned.
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Hmm..spraying hard around the edges, no leaks?
But even then, wouldn't my speedo go wacky?
The 'sensor that senses the sensor' is the ecu..swapping ecu's still gives me the speed sensor code..thanks for the idea though.
Is there anywhere in the engine bay? A fuse? Anything? I've still been scanning the fsm to find nothing on where the speed sensor goes after it goes up by the tranny
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Sorry I'm at work and didn't go as thorough as I should have..
I have a Speed Sensor code causing my CEL to come on, with no warning.. So I'm asking where to check next now that I know my speed sensor functions properly? My speedo has worked flawlessly and showed zero problems..so I'm not sure why it's on?
Thanks
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So, I lifted the Pathy and removed the speed sensor and checked it according to FSM.
Speed sensor checks out OK.
No problems. I figured that as my speedo works fine. It's right on.
So..where do I start?? I can't find anything on where the harness goes beyond the connector..
Thanks!
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Also, in a FWD (i know we all have Pathfinders) but say in my mothers 93 Nissan Quest it wouldnt go up the hill to our road..so either you'd have to walk from the bottom of the hill or salt the roads and hope it makes it..(usually it would park itself in the ditch, no harm done)
So i got the idea of driving it up in reverse and..it works!
Just to let you guys know with any FWD cars.. it works.
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Had it checked out, they seemed concerned how there's play left and righ, but they tried the pry at trick, and the wheel didn't move.. They referred to the proble
Neon possibly upper ball joint/bearings and the pitman arm?
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Okay, while my tranny is still working GREAT i want to attempt cleaning my stock cooler for the tranny.. mainly coz i cant afford one right now. I figure if its lasted this long, replacing the lines and cleaning the cooler, it can last as long twice! So..how would you go at this? is it the cooler clogging or the lines?
Thanks!
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i want to hear how it idles and revs..
I believe you should make videos of it.
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whoa..so..i looked and noticed how dangerous a failed ball joint can be..yeah, im having that checked right away!!!
Actually kinda scary..
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for sure. I always remember this when I'm halfway done with taking stuff out. It always messed me up when putting stuff back together.
"So, I think this screw goes here. Hmm...but it's too small. Look, it goes right through the hole. It doesn't even thread. Huh, that's weird. This is the only screw I have left...hmm, Maybe that one screw that seemed hard to put in was really the screw that went here. Nahhhh, that's not possible, I would have remembered. Well, maybe I'm wrong. Let's check. Now I took everything apart again, and I'm looking that screw dead in the face. Man, it's so hard to get back out since I forced it in. Oh never mind, I'm gettin' it. I'm gettin' it. Awww fskc, I stripped the screw hole :'( now the proper, smaller screw won't fit. ffffffffffffffff-"
TWSS x7 jus' sayin.
Also, if you follow the steps step-by-step I would get several pieces of tape, sticky side out, write the step numbers, and place the screws on each step you marked on the tape..like
| TAPE BEGIN |
|Step 1 |
|. . . o |
The tape will hold the screws so you dont lose them! Duct tape works well for this purpose, as well.
Just an idea, but works for me when im doing something complicated..hope this helps!
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Did you remove the wheel?
nope, i just lifted it to check for looseness in the wheel..it honestly felt like the lugnuts were loose..but they werent.. just to help describe how it felt.
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OK so after i washed it and waxed it..devoting a whole day to IT. I lifted it again..and found out:
The wheel makes a noise when kick it..the same noise i hear when i brake or am going down the road at a low speed!
The wheel does NOT move left to right..
The wheel DOES move a tiny amount up and down (may be in and out, not sure) but, when i do that, it makes that sound im talking about..
So what is this?
Thanks!
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If you think its brake related, I say jack it up, remove wheels, check brakes. I had a bad ball joint on my 2WD Hardbody that did the same thing you are describing though.
Hmm..when i last checked everything was fine..i dont think its a ball joint because my wheel doesnt move up or down when i jack it up and try to move it.. last i checked everything looked fine. but i suppose ill remove it today and see if its just the caliper.. im thinking the caliper could be loose or something..not sure but im worried its going to be the death of me.. It also pulls to that side while driving.. if that helps any..?
Thanks!
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So..since my problem is getting worse, i figured i should be concerned and ask what it could be..
I've noticed pulling out from stop lights or so, i hear a clinking that gets quieter, yet faster as i speed up.. OK no biggie..i just ignore it..
but if i brake really hard, it tends to make a loud pop sound and jerk to the right.. (the side that makes the sound when rolling)
Anyone have any ideas?
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I have a similar surge with my pathfinder, but way more pronounced. I'm not sure what it is, but it only bugs me at lower rpm's. above 3500 and it's a non-issue, but it feels like a dog below that!
hmmmm.. does it change with temperature? try the coolant temp sensor if so! or even the o2
Lol and this right here is a prime example of why it's a bitch to diagnose stuff over the internet...
That is a great point!
Especially it being 8 months into it..
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Haven't been able to check codes but I can say my CEL is off way more than it is on..its actually getting rare for it to be on..
I think this may have gotten us a lot closer to a solution!
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I have to admit, it definitely gives it a LOT more power..I tend to spin tires where I'm used to having to push the pedal down fairly hard..and it downshifts quicker, whereas before it would take even more pedal pushing to get it to.. Cel is stil on, haven't checked codes or erased them yet.
But I can say the cel stayed off until I started rolling around 15mph. Possibly speed sensor but I'll check when I'm home. I hope this did it!!
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There is a little hose on the EGR BPT valve (rubber one) thats about an inch long. Check for cracks in it, mine was broken in half and it gave me an egr code.
WOW
Ok, so the long hose running to some thing under the intake to the EGR valve.. had a big hole in it from dry rotting.. replaced itand other vacuum lines..and tada! idle switch works too!
So i'll see if it does any better..But..definitely a big improvement..
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It sounds to me like you have more than one problem... I would be curious if you still get the MAF code when you have the wiring straight to the ECU (after resetting codes). But maybe it doesn't even run well enough for you to check? If it's just idling at 2000 rpm that is probably ok... If fixing the wiring DOES get rid of the MAF code then I'd move on to solving the next one.
If you don't want the ecu to be able to increase the idle speed unplug the AAC connector. Then your idle will just be based on the mechanical stuff... idle adjust screw, vacuum leaks etc....
You have a point, ill try that Monday..i'm starting my big long troubleshooting deal then..and hoping to get somewhere..
Well...
You need to test every one of these voltages. Print out the pages and write down what you are actually getting. When you know what's out of range you know where to start. Check these wires with the wiring diagram and see what if anything is common to them.
It'll take a lot of time and patience.
I'll do that starting monday, as it looks like its come to that. Thanks!
At least then i can narrow it down to one thing..hopefully.
ANYWAY. I brought it to school shop today and ran a bunch of tests on it.. Here's what i've come to:
When checking my codes, i get
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit
32 EGR System Problem
why i'm getting only getting those two, i have no idea..coz if i check the codes via ECU..i get the codes listed at the first post of this topic..but yet, if i check them with our scan tool..i get the VSS and EGR... which one should i trust?!
So i check the Air/Fuel mixture..it said as long as the air and fuel matched up with the exhaust readings..its within specs.
Both were alternating between Rich and Lean at 2k rpm. (good or bad? (according to the scan tool its within specs because they were reading the same.))
I do the Real Time Fault Monitor..all checked out OK at idle, but as soon as i put it at 2k RPM again, it showed
AIRFLOW CKT (FAULT)
FUEL PUMP (NORMAL)
CRANK ANGLE SENSOR SIGNAL (NORMAL)
IGNITION COIL PRIMARY SIGNAL (NORMAL)
at idle,
AIRFLOW CKT (NORMAL)
FUEL PUMP (NORMAL)
CRANK ANGLE SENSOR SIGNAL (NORMAL)
IGNITION COIL PRIMARY SIGNAL (NORMAL)
so..i figure this may help a LOT
Im going to clean my EGR valve and see if that helps.. Once again..thank you EVERYONE
I really appreciate everyone's input in helping me..along with the patience you're giving.
If cleaning the EGR doesnt help, i will start troubleshooting by the FSM as MrT mentioned.
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Were you driving the truck when you shot that video? I noticed your speedo was reading nearly 40mph (Electronic Speedo) while the tach was reading 2-2500 rpm. If the speedo is acting up at the same time, I'd say you definitly have an electrical issue or like Kingman mentioned above 'a ground' thats screwing things up.
Yeah, i was driving up the highway..why..what's wrong with that?
My speedo works fine compared to the GPS..
I just dont floor my pathy.. i usualyl try to make it shift asap to save on gas..
at the most i let it shift at 3200RPM
i definitely have electrical issues..but..i cant figure it out...
Have you looked inside your ECU at all? If you've got a bad piece of wiring somewhere it could be frying it every time you drive the truck, maybe why multiple computers are giving the same codes. This is what happened to mine and it took A LOT of troubleshooting and time before I opened up the ECU to find the problem right in front of my face.
Honestly now that I think about it, what I'd do is go to the junkyard and pull a good wiring harness from the lowest mileage, cleanest, unmolested rig you can find. That'll more than likely let you know if wiring is your issue or not.
Hmm..the only pathy i know is one that has had a lot of stuff pulled from it..but engine and tranny wise, it ran and parked itself in the junkyard.., it was only junked because of its frame..
How long is the wiring harness? would that be a job one person could tackle in a day, or would it be more of a project..?
I'm very adventurous and desperate to do what it takes...
You had a bad solder in your ECU..or..what? where was your problem at? the actual wires at the connector?
I think your problem lies in the wiring.... it doesn't matter if the truck seems worse when you think you fixed it... if you are measuring different signals at the MAF and ECU when they should be the same then you need to fix that. Once you've done so you can figure out why your truck idles too high with it fixed or whatever.
I don't know if that's actually what's causing your problem, but it's really hard to diagnose stuff like this (especially over the internet) without being methodical about it...
You do have a point.. But thats why i tried to 'fix' the wiring by wiring it straight to the ECU..and when i did that it idled extremely high and everytime i just -tap- the gas pedal it would idle down then back up...
In theory, wiring straight to the ECU should eliminate all electrical problems...right??
I tried mixing my wiring (one wire mine, one wire factory wiring) and it ran at 2RPM (no joke!)
I totally agree, but i really appreciate EVERYONES input on this issue..really, i do..
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Here's the thing...
The CHTS, MAF, and CAS are all grounded together through the ECU at multiple pins and the chassis. Mess one common ground up (mainly to the ECU) and everything on that circuit could start acting screwy. Nissans love grounds.
Did you unplug the temp sensor?
hmmm..so do you happen to know where the common grounds for those are??
I even went as far as adding two extra grounds to the MAF sensor!
I just dont get why when i straight wired it, wiring it the same way its supposed to be, according to the FSM, it would idle extremely high like that..
Not yet, but when i head out for work i will..
Thanks!
Will post back with results when im able!
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Your issue sounds exactly like my issue, which was the CHTS (your style of sensor goes in the coolant neck) even though it's new. Piss poor fuel mileage, hesitating, surging when cold (rich-lean-rich-lean...), slight "miss" at idle (although when cold or warm), no power when it's acting up, (comes from running way too rich), backfiring when slowing down for speed bumps (again running rich), and when it's bogging down it's slow to rev but when it's done with the morning freak out it'll rev freely. I also noticed that if I start the truck and it's not acting up, I can hold the RPMs steadily at 3K for maybe a minute. Then bam something happens and the RPMs will drop down to 2,500-ish and not want to hold there stably until it pops out of it's bogging mode, then all is well again. You can hear it in the engine and exhaust, it sounds like it's being completely restricted. When I unplugged my sensor every issue went away.
Yeah, take a video?
Hmm..actually, that sounds just like my problem, only im fairly sure mine revs freely..no problem at all... But i havent tried revving it cold..
Come to think of it. My 85 300 ZX did the same thing. And I replaced everything from the CAS then the distributor to CTS and O2 sensors. Never figured out what caused it because I traded it for a New Pathy in 87. My 89 is starting to do something similar in that during warm up, once the temp comes up to about just off the 'C' on the temp gauge. The idle will kind of bounce or float between 800 rpm and 1000- 1100 like it's trying to figure out which speed it needs to settle into?
Hmm..i dont have an idling problem, it definitely fast idles like its supposed to, but maybe yours is a MAF issue?
Not gonna be a popular call but I'd say take it to the dealer to at least get a diagnosis. Of course that is if you really need this vehicle to work properly. You seem to have been beating your head against a wall for some time now with very little progress. And this doesn't seem like one of those "one little thing" problems.
To throw my .02 in... You probably have some atrocious wiring issues that you aren't going to be able to figure out for yourself, or a bad ECU.
What you really need to do is go step by step through EF & EC-127 through 132 in the FSM. That's your baseline. Move on from there to individual components. It's going to be a giant pain and unless you are pretty good with wiring it will be next to impossible for you to get anywhere.
Hmmm..honestly, i would, if i had the money..but i have no idea what it would cost..
Yeah, for a whole 8 months, i've been battling these problems..
The ECU is good, i have tried numerous ECU's to come out with the same codes and the same problems...
I'm feeling adventurous, im OK with wiring, but as far as understanding how wiring works, im good to go.
But see, when i tried straight wiring my MAF sensor to the computer, it would idle extremely high (2k rpm) and wouldnt stop doing it!
Anyway, here's the video..
It wasnt as cold out, so it didnt act up like it usually does..but maybe you can get an idea..
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Try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if it runs better.
Actually, my gas mileage has SUCKED recently..im now getting 50-60 miles per qtr tank... :\
Where's the harness for the 02 at? I have been questioning my o2 sensor..and im sure the other night where i let it idle for 2 1/2 hours while i rewired all my speakers didnt help either..though i did drive it hard to drive out any carbon that may have built up...
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Posted · Edited by NissanNismoZ
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