NissanNismoZ
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Posts posted by NissanNismoZ
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Didn't you already determine that your MAF wiring was busted?
Well i thoght so..but it runs better off stock wiring, than if i wire it directly...
Clean or replace your MAF and air filter.
I have two MAF's both clean along with a new air filter
Does it backfire a lot when you're slowing down? The "it acts like im pushing and letting off the pedal repeatedly" kind of feel like suddenly you're towing something or being held back then it's gone?
Try something real quick, unplug the Coolant Temp Sensor from the upper housing and see if the slight miss goes away. I'm curious...
Hmmm..suddenly like im towing something..like something is pushing in front of the truck, then letting go.. The RPMS will go up faster, then not go up as fast, then go up faster..i want to say like a surging? I can video it, if you want..
I'll try that! Thanks!
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Ok, so im starting a clean slate as a few things have changed.
My (i think it's hesitation?) For example, if i were to EVER pull out as soon as it stop idling high to warm up (usually around 30 secs to a min, depends) it acts like it doesnt have much power, and as you accelerate to get to speed, it acts like im pushing and letting off the pedal repeatedly, but gently..and it does this until its warmed up (usually around 2-3 miles, but the colder it is, the worse it is..
So i'm wondering, what could this be? I'm trying to figure it out before winter and it just..stops all together..
Ok so if i start it up and let it idle cold, if i listen closely, i can hear what sounds like a slight miss/stumble (i can video it if needed, but its slight..)
My CEL no longer goes off, and my codes are:
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
45 Injector Leak.
34 Knock Sensor.
23 Idle Switch.
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It's all because it has a half-tank of gas. If it were near empty, like most, it would be 2k.
Gotta know how the system works, people!
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VSS == vehicle speed sensor. It provides the electrical signal to the speedometer/odometer. It attaches to the transfer case. Any issues with the speedometer/odometer reading properly? The sensors have plastic gears on them that can be replaced. The plastic pieces are known to fail from time-to-time, causing issues even if the sensor itself is still good.
hmm..nope actually the speedo is right on with the GPS..havent had any problems so far.. that's why im not sure what it is..
Now the CEL is doing it again to where it wont even go off..
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and i'm also looking in the EC section, i have no EF/FC section..not in any of the ones i can find..?
Nevermind..okay, i found it..it says it uses the VSS for it, as well..and i have a VSS code...?
i just have no idea on where to start for the VSS...
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Here are the results..
12.3v/600RPM Everything ON, in drive (heater on full blast, headlights on, defrost on)
12.6v/650RPM Everything ON, in neutral
13.0v/750RPM Everything OFF, in neutral
seems like the alty cant keep up with the voltages needed...
BUT as Kingman said, my voltages are fine at 750rpm or higher...
and everything i turned on, made the idle lower and lower..
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I'm trying to see if anyone can come up with what i can do to pathy to help the idle..such as, at night with heater blowing on 3, headlights on, radio going, when stopped at a stop sign it idles at 550-600 rpm (in drive) any ideas? it didnt do it since messing with my MAF wiring and trying to run the new wires, which i restored to stock wiring coz it was trying to run at 2RPM (no joke)
Thanks!
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So..today..i was cruising to the redlight (radio was off for some unknown reason) i hear the clank (metal sound) as soon as i hit the brakes (as usual)
the light turns green..i let off the brakes to accelerate..and notice..this same clanking sound..ticks faster and faster..still staying at a quiet volume..it just gets faster and faster...any ideas what this could be?
Thanks!
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Thanks for the suggestions guys! it's appreciated
ill keep the cardboard idea for the winter, thanks!
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Oh really?? Do you know which side or the whereabouts I would find this gremlin?
it does seem to play with the CEL more after/around when it's rained... -
So ive noticed in 35F or lower, it sounds like the starter turns slower than normal, and it surges on acceleration, until its warmed up some..it usually doesnt take long for it to stop, but..is this a problem, considering it goes away after its warmed up? Thanks!
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CEL went off as soon as i pulled into work..and came back on as soon as i pulled into my drive way.. hmm..i noticed (ECU never game ME the code) the scan tool i used on it only showed MAF and speed sensor (ECU never read the code for that to me, only the scan tool... so could it be related to the speed sensor? cruise control lioght always quits, starts flickering, then the CEL comes on.. so..could it be that?
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Ok, so it runs worse, but what are the voltages? Try to give it gas to get it up to 2000 rpm or something, measure terminal C at the MAF, check to make sure the voltage is good, measure pin 16 at ECU, check to make sure voltage is good etc.
Did that, and it wasnt showing any voltage..
MAF wasnt sending anything out with my wiring..i was thinking..ok..since pin B is a ground, should i ground it while it runs to the ECU from the MAF or..what?
I'll try the alty thing when i get time
Thanks guys!!
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it's definitely worse..at first i bought bigger wire than needed, then bought 18 gauge and..still nothing.
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After wiring it up straight to teh ECU, i get the proper voltage IN (Pin A is left alone, it reads battery voltage)
but..its not sending anything out, which makes me suspicious about pin B
so i tried replacing one wire at a time..so.. i left pin C stock and B new wiring..no change.
i leave pin B stock and pin C with new wiring..and..pathy runs at 200-300rpm, shuddering horribly? O.o
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Okay..so..i gave up (until i can get an idea from someone) and rewired it to stock wiring..
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reference..you mean the power to the MAF?
i left that wire alone, i only ran new wires to B and C on the MAF..which are pins 16 and 17 on the ECU
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OK so i know that im wiring it correctly..but.. im wiring B to 17 and C to 16..straight from the MAF and..its running kinda bad now, i cant get any voltage signal from the maf at all, but its still getting the power supply..whats going on?? i dont understand what im doing wrong...
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okay, so my shop teacher told me to run new wires to the ECU from the maf and see if that helps..just done it and will reply when i can test it.
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Are you getting the correct voltage at pin 16 on the ECU now?
Nope, MAF is sending out 2.15v and the computer is receiving .59v
..could that be a prblem ir is there some sort of step-down somewhere?
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So..i've exhausted all possibilities.. FSM is of no help in this situation..does anyone else have any other ideas? Most of what i've done is...:
Replaced MAF harness and connector.
Replaced MAF Sensor
Replaced ECU
Added several grounds
Tested in every single way we could think possible.
Any more ideas? I'm the stubborn type and its really aggravating to me that i cant figure out something..
So of course, i'm about to take it to a shop and have them fix it.. i'm completely lost now.
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I pulled all my fuses individually and nothing changed..hmm..
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So! Today i was told to check for a electrical leak..so i did by checking for volts.
-.44v = Top of my radiator
+.18v = Top radiator hose clam +.18v
+.20v = Other side of radiator hose clamp (closest to engine)
+.21v = Fuel line clamp under the intake, under the two grounds, (refer to previous posts to see picture)
I'm out of places to probe.. any ideas??
BTW when i check for ohms on the intake, it goes into the negatives, -.19 ohms resistance...?
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If you are reading 0.7v at the ECU pin 16 and 1.58v at the sensor on pin C then there is your problem.
Admittedly I did not notice the words "check ground circuit" before, heh.
It still seems to me that if you measure voltage between pin 17 on the ecu and ground with the ignition on that you should get 0V or very close to it. The fact that he is reading a voltage there which is significantly above (or below) zero seems to be bad to me. Unless the FSM has referenced their ground to -12V or whatever, which would be confusing. Anyway, as we have both mentioned, he is clearly not getting the correct signal at terminal 16 on the ecu, so that needs to be fixed.
both correct!
So i'm going to try and remedy this problem by changing harnesses completely.
Thanks guys!! its appreciated!
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