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Smashfinder

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  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

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About Smashfinder

  • Birthday 07/27/1983

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    93 Pathy SE-V6 'Pacific Spirit': 5-Spd, 4x4, Leather, LSD. 3" Calmini Arms, and 3" BL. 33" Interco Traxus M/T. Warn Hubs and Procomp Steering Stab. Pacesetter Headers, custom dual exhaust. Dual Friction Clutch. Custom body dents and scratches.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nanaimo, BC, Canada
  • Country
    Canada
  • Interests
    Wife, Smashfinder, Army... in that order.

Smashfinder's Achievements

NPORA Newbie

NPORA Newbie (1/5)

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Reputation

  1. Back behind a pathy

  2. is selling his Rig

  3. So, I have managed to destroy all four shocks on my 'Trailmastered' Pathy. Deciding on a replacement, I am looking at Pro Comps options (probably the ES3000). Decided not to go with TM shocks, as nobody up here stocks them. ProComps and Ranchos are pretty common though. Ive put my possible decision side by side with the info i was able to get from TM. Wonder what your thoughts are as to fitment. I figure the small differences should account for the OME 3/4" springs and missing rear swaybar, but i am new to custom ordering shocks. Wonder if someone can throw some pointers my way, or tell me if I am way out. [All measurements in Inches (even though Im a Canuck)] Length Part # Make Model F/R Lift Ext Col Travel Diameter Notes 73660 TM SSV Front 4 18.91 11.66 7.25 2 TM kit is 4" front lift 72660 TM SSV Rear 3 25.95 15.42 10.53 2 TM kit is 3" rear lift 319518 ProComp ES3000 Front 4? 19.73 12.03 7.7 2.36 326500 ProComp ES3000 Rear 3.75? 27.07 15.94 11.13 2.36 Link to ProComp Shock Specs (including their sizing and meaning behind their part numbers) (Check last page): Procomp Shock applications pdf File I think if I get this right, I will post the spreadsheet I am making to gather info on the Pinned Shock Options page here in the garage, to help prevent people like me from posting questions that have been probably answered once or twice (I swear I searched the forum this time). Cheers
  4. I threw a set of Old Man Emu Springs in my rig. They are maybe 3/4 of an inch over stock, so you can get away with the shocks you already have. The stiffer ride in the back is nice too. Being designed for the veh, they just pop in. Should be able to source them from local parts store, or spring shop. Not too expensive either. Not as cheap as JGC springs from the wrecker, but...
  5. I dunno if i could buy a 'truck' without a solid rear end... or a manual tranny option for that matter. by the by, i was at the stealership, and they said theyre ordering the 08s already. looked online, and all the 08 trucks are comin out by summer. Also, they had a nismo frontier at the dealer today (king cab, 6 spd). aint goona lie, I was tempted... i bet they'd gimme a few grand for my gurl... no, must stay strong! dont sell.. oh god, i'm so torn up!
  6. Yeah, that sounds pretty sweet, especially since you are on the cold side of the border
  7. From battery is an immediate 15A fuse, then the PIAA relay. a ground wire sprouts from that, as well as 4 other wires. 2 go through the firewall, to the lights in the rear, the other 2 go to the Switch in the cab. From the switch is the slave wire to the 'black' reverse light wire on the Tail light assembly (btw, major PITA to splice into that short a wire, even with the clip). I was sure it called for red/pos wire, but i could've been wrong. It didnt work then either. instead, when i pushed the switch to the slave position, it fired up my stock reverse lights, even when not in reverse, but the piaas didnt come on. Both piaa lights have a ground as well. i dont think there's a problem there, cause as i said, they work fine in 'on' mode. As i am typing to myself, i wonder if there may be a problem where i spliced to get in the firewall. dunno, i can usually make a decent splice, and i use real 88 tape. also the splices are inside the vehicle, not outside... hampsters in my head are crankin the rusty wheel...
  8. Also, anyone know a good PIAA to throw in the front as a Drivin Fog light (OE style) im thinkin maybe a cost effective way would be gettin some OE lights with PIAA bulbs. Or maybe forkin the cash for PIAA lamps. Suggestions? Im pretty sure Im keepin to PIAA, but im easy
  9. PIAA 1500 Backup lights Got these a while back and put em in meself... Did my PIAA 510 FLs w/o too much trouble, though I am no electrician, or mechanic for that matter Anyhow, I mounted em on my back bumper without too much trouble. The lights have a 3 stage switch: On, Off, and Slaved to the stock reverse lights. Unit draws power direct from the battery through a 15A fuse. Switch has a wire leading to the reverse light on the passenger side (for the 3rd stage of operation). Heres where the problem lies. I have connected the PIAA 'slave wire' to both wires leading into the reverse light. In both cases, the 'on' stage worked fine, as well as 'off.' 'slave mode' is no good. connected to the first wire on slave mode: Stock lights are c/onstantly on, even if im not in reverse. The PIAAs dont come on at all. Connected to the other wire: on and off still work, but when in slave, as soon as I put her in R, I burn out the 15A fuse. input? Kinda nervous about usin a bigger fuse. Bloody lights were $$
  10. Hi Slick. My Name is Smashfinder, and I have come here to tell everyone that I too am a Pathaholic. I've been about ten minutes without a joy ride. I think I'm going to have a regression soon... Also, I'm a lurker
  11. WB, Boss. Good to hear from the guy who had the genius idea of starting this place up. Thanks for that, by the way. I wish you good luck in your personal, and pathfinding adventures
  12. here's the other one: Rust was the culprit, in my case. The long trip through the rockis just finished the job. I would suggest either PROCOMP or RANCHO replacements. I've used em both, and they were both really nice. Probable cheaper than OEM, too.
  13. Hey, I've done that one. My First Pathy was an 89XE, and BOTH of the shocks snapped at the mounts, although they did it while i was driving from Calgary to Vancouver. It's an interesting thing, having your vehicle turn into a slinky at 150Km/H. Doesn't corner so good, though. I got pics still, here
  14. wasnt the distributor rotor. Was hopin it might be. I did get a good price on the injectors though, so im goona put those in when i get em. i couldnt get any codes from the dealership, cause every time the truck getrs near there, she starts runnin fine i will clean the MAF sensor before i buy the parts, but im really leanin toward the injectors. Ill do the O2 sensor for good measure I lean toward the injector, because when i swapped the plugs a few weeks ago, one was covered in soot
  15. XE, just try to get the Spare Carrier (aka Noisemaker), and the LSD Gaawd I wish I had an LSD. Theres some really nice aftermarket ones out there, and theyre made to fit the open-Diff case. Those cost a great deal of cashola though. I Voted XE, because the SE has way too much crap that doesnt work anymore, as soon as you use it... with passion. My 92 XE has one option: A/C, and it works. My old 89 XE had all the shiny stuff, but they broke, like the Automatic Transmission. Stupid Automajiks! XE, because manual stuff is harder to break. Just put an LSD in Could call the properly modded pathies: S-XE, SE-XE(cute...), XXE, XE-X or just go out and call it GT-R, another fine Nissan Trim
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