Mauitrailguy

Kingman...Glad you saw the sarcasm in my rust comment... I am very lucky to have a vehicle that spent all its life in places they don't use salt(washington) and now in Nor Cal...For now I am in Fort Bragg...I've been to Eureka a couple times to go salmon fishing because there are no fish in this area.... An yeah I definitely need to get different hubs I have heard the Auto hubs on the Pathy's are notorious for issues. This was the first time I had an issue. Anyone know where to get a good deal on a winch bumper for my rig????

Andy I don't know if it would work for an auto. The shift cable might change in tension giving you some trouble(I emphasize might)...Not sure though. Here are some more pics of some flex so you guys have an idea of limits that can be reached.

I feel your pain...Best suggestion. Put all nuts and bolts in a old coffee can...

BFG has a nice 32x11.5 tire. It is the KM2 M/T. I have the 33 inch version, but i think you would be hard pressed to get that on your rig unless you have a lift of some sort. Not sure though you could always try if not I wouldn't go wider than 11.5. I have 10.5 wide 33's. You really don't need much more especially on the small axles we have. Your just losing power on those big wide tires...power that could be transferred to forward motion if you catch my drift.

Front isn't over cranked...it sits level. I do not have the steering package yet but is definitely the next upgrade. I think the reason the hardbody looks like it has more wheel clearance is that i still have my mud flaps on. I have since taken them off since they were stopping my rear tires from flexing up into the well and tucking up nicely...like they do now. Also it is a 5 speed manual....just a little FYI for you guys with rust issues....this was my solution. Go get a case of 88cent cans of spray paint and a wire wheel attachment for your drill. Clean the frame as best you can and do two coats of paint. I did this and it looks awesome and is helping to keep my frame in good shape. Also my tires are only 33x10.5. This as I have recently found out is to much for the free running automatic hubs. I will be getting either WARN or MILE MARKER manual locking hub. Any other questions I am willing to answer......Thank you all for the compliment. P.S I have checked all hardware after the install.Thanks

Dont know if this should go in How to's or not but Injust wanted let everyone know I have installed my BL, suspension lift and put it all on 33x10.5 BFG KM2's with rock crawler steel wheels. This is a heads up to anyone who buys the Calmini kit. Some of the parts do not fit as they are supposed to and the instructions are not very detailed. Same as the AC BL from 4x4parts.com I had to make modifications to the rear track basr bracket to accept the new one. The BL kit was supposed to come with all the hoses and it came with the wrong sizes. Other than those issues they ae simple to install. It has been about a month since i installed this and i havent got around to posting. If you have questions about how I made this work please let me know and I will gladly answer them. Here are some pics. Please post your questions...

I dont know what your budget is but there is always the option to have exhaust made for you by a local shop or if you know how to weld. This will also allow you to use whatever size tubing you want. I have found it hard to find a complete exhaust system that isnt stock. I am in the process of fabricating exhaust right now myself. I am thinking of running dual pipes, no cats, and possible just some glasspacks instead of mufflers...all three inch tubing, This i just a thought. Also I have heard good things about the doug thorley headers sold on rugged rucks. although like i said a little pricy.

Have you tried to contact the a nissan dealer. some times they are able to get things like that due to overproduction.

I just completed my 3" Calmini Suspension lift and a 3" AC body lift. I the proceeded to put 33x10.5 BFG MT KM2 on some rock crawler rims. Awesome amount of clearance. I have an 88 but dont see why it would do any less for a 94. I still am gonna do away with the auto hubs and get lockers but after that theres not much to do to have a very capable rig. I went out on one of our local trails in Nor Cal and went all the places jeeps get stuck even out did my friends silverado on 35x12.5s. so thers my input if you need help let me know i am more than willing if you want pics i got those too.

Trans is a pain PITA... Get it jacked up and level. This will help to align the input shaft into the pilot bushing. Make sure you have the appropriate clearance to get the trans underneath. If I were you id rent a trans jack if you havent already. Get the trans under there then lower the truck some so its not a big jump up to the block...makes things easier...

Check the grounds maybe.....Could be draining

Im not exactly sure whats going on. No noise at slow speeds either. I just changed the rear diff. fluid not to long ago and that didn't help the noise like I thought it would. Does anyone think that the shield around the trans output to driveshaft could be rubbing...It came off in the process of doing the clutch job???? Just a thought. Im gonna squash this topic soon if I can't figure it out. Its not causing performance problems so I guess nothing to worry bout till it goes. Also Im not leaking any fluids anywhere(supprisingly)

The noise is only there when Im accelerating... not cruising or downshifting. It was suggested to me that it may be my driveshaft...or u joints...heres a pic of the axle i pulled it apart to take a look didnt seem abnormal.

So heres the low down....about 3 months ago I swamped my Pathy to the point the ECU was underwater and when I got it running the clutch was rusted to the flywheel from sitting.... So I fixed all that... Recently(about a month ago) A humming noise started in the rear end. I changed the gear oil thinking maybe it was emulsified, but not the case... think its coming from the tire. Any one have any ideas. I was just gonna pull the wheels and check the bearings.

Okay...I got a D30 for free I figured if i did the gears right like 5.37 in the rear and 5.38 in the front it would work out well. If not to serious of a crawler and if i got my hands on a D44 i could do the swap from the D30 To the D44 prety easy...just my thinking....Thanks for the advice ill keep it in mind

Does anyone have a legitimate rwason why a D30 with leafs or a 3 link wouldn't work