pathfounder

Mud on the inner side of the rim and tire balance are my guesses. All it takes is a bit of mud to stick on, or a wheel weight to come off.

The Pathfinder is missing a wheel cap. DO NOT BUY

I wouldn't waste the time on wheels like that. Just replace them with ones you actually like.

If you remove the drive shaft, tow it all you want. Damage comes from the fact that the transmission isn't lubricated properly when the output shaft is turning, and nothing else.

It would be a lot of work to swap in power windows. If it was me, I'd just find doors with power windows already and put them on. I have 31s on factory 6-spoke alloys on my 97.

Were all of the pics in this thread taken at ride height or full droop? The angles in 557562_3566713420723_1912955342_n.jpg look extreme, especially if at ride height. It also looks like a 3-4" lift which I would guess means you need an SFD.

It wasn't a matter of "if" but "when". Some fun was had, and now it's time to get a great big axle on it and carry on with the 37s.

Any good name brand that says LIMITED SLIP right on the bottle and is 75w90 will do the job.

I thought the load sensing valve was ditched after a few years.

The wheel stopping is probably more likely just the brakes. You'd have to take the caliper/pads off and try again to be sure. As for testing the MAF, I don't know a way to do this. You'd need a scope or a new one to compare the difference with. You can narrow down the noise a bit more by taking off the drive flange on the suspect wheel. If the noise goes away, it is not your wheel bearings, and instead is either a cv joint or part of the differential.

I would check the throttle linkage for sticking. You might have a bad MAF. The ecu will pretty much take the MAF's output as the word of God and not throw codes for it.

37s should have been a no-cost factory option!

Maybe this was already tried, but any time I can't turn the key, I just turn the steering wheel and it frees. I've done this in tons of cars over the years.

http://car-part.com/

If you look at the brake lines, they all head all the way across the firewall and then make their way to the wheels, because then they can use more common parts with the right hand drive models.

The wheel wells are structural on an R50.

I don't think it will be enough.

Small nut on the back of each caliper or brake drum assembly. You have to do this 4 times, once per corner.

Saw one mounted vertically on top of the rear bumper once.

Just to join in on this old thread grave dig, EGR is good for the engine and good for your wallet.

I bet it's the water pump.

You also need to be sure it's the belt(s) themselves that are squeaking.

One thing you could do it pop off the drive flanges and see if the noise goes away. They may still make a noise during suspension travel, but it would be much quieter and sound a fair bit different. You could do one side at a time to narrow down which side it is.

Sounds like it's one of the CV joints.

Replace all the belts AFTER you find the real problem. No sense doing it all now, just to find that it was an accessory riding on the innermost belt.