Timmons
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Posts posted by Timmons
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Well checked the steering rack, tie rode ends, pads and rotors replaceed. Still the same vibration through the steering wheel during a stop.
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I had trouble with the wheel bearing preload. I followed the FSM to a "T" and even still, after about 300k worth of driving, it would have some play.
You should confirm that the wheel bearing preload is right after having driven it awhile.
Goood point, i took a guess. All i had was two screw drivers and made it as tight as i could get.
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I had this happen with the old front diff. Before I changed to 4.6 gears. I think that the shaft inside the diff was bent or twisted but never tore it down to check. I just swapped the whole thing and never had a problem again.It didn't have anything to do with SFD. That is when I swapped diffs when I put SFD on ???
I don't remember bending the diff at all but maybe the angle change of the shaft?? Didn't have the issue until in installed the SFD. Nothing touched the shaft during the install that i can remember.
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Are your cv's in good shape? is your lift 4+2 ? Mine never did that . Did you get it lined up afterwards ?
4+2. The half shafts are in great shape. I have warn hubs and unlocked them so that's not it. Alignment completed.
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So after I had installed the SFD lift, noticed vibrations through the steering wheel during a stop. I have changed the rotors, break pads, alignment, tire balance, bleed the brakes etc. Still have the same problem. I do notice a lot of bump steering. Has anyone had any vibration issues during a stop through the steering wheel after their SFD lift? What am i missing?
Thanks,
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Next time i will post pictures, it was a snap.
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Does anyone have a good link to a DIY on how to replace the rotors on a 1998 R50?
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What about taking a nut and screwing it on the inner tie rod past the outer tie rod that has a bolt welded to it to fasten the stabilizer so it is more secure in one spot and if you ever needed to change tie rods you could just put the nut on your new one....? You could make it a thick nut to be able to withstand the pressures being applied....
And as for the bracket you made, would it need some gusseting for people who do extreme offroading like myself?
Hey Muddfildvaynes,
What model stabilizer are you using and also where can I pick up the link for the inner tie rod? I just got done with my SFD and this has got to be a must for off-roading LOL. I wan't to install this over the weekend for sure.
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Had the same problem on my vehicle. Turned out to be the brackets that have bushings and seat the power steering rack on the sub frame. One of the bushings went bad and the rack started to slip. It also made clanking noises after a turn or over a bump. After they were both replaced, problem solved.
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How much of the spring did you have to cut off to install to the new adapters and to the top perch???? I got a line on some lightly used 4" terra flex WJ Springs that have been cut to fit KFabs original adapters......is there a difference? Pics? I want to make sure before I purchase! Did you ever post pictures of the end result of your SFD'd Rig yet?.... I've been keeping an eye out for it! Did I miss it somewhere?
I cut the top part of the spring to fit in the upper purch. The adapters that Andrew makes fit the WJ springs. I need to take some pics of my lift and post them still.
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I actually started with the custom spring research (towards the bottom of the list I attached). But after a few emails with Andrew at KR Fabs, found that the cost for his adapter plus aftermarket WJ springs was actually a pretty sweet deal. I also found fairly wide selection of spring lengths/spring rates for the WJ. I've purchase 2 sets of rear springs and KR Fabs adapter and I still haven't spent as much money as if I had gone the custom spring route.
So my reasoning was originally to save money but I think I have a pretty sweet setup in the end (pun intended).
Can't wait to see how you figure things out.
I also have Andrews new adapters welded on my purches with a set up new 4" WJ springs
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I took my front sway-bar off. I think my rear sway-bar is keeping my brake lines from tearing, so I'll leave it alone. Did you extend your brake lines in the back?
I removed the old brake lines in the front an rear and purchased extended steel braided brake lines. Works great. I also had to extend the breather hose connected to the rear diff. Maybe i should have welded on removable links for the rear sway bar, opps. I'm just removing the lower link when going out on the trails. Do you have an SFD?
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We are here in Tucson with a 2000 QX4.
Just finished an annual Thanksgiving run last weekend with the FSJ folks up towards the Gila.
2nd trip out in this since we went through the mechanicals, you can pack a ton of crap in one of these.
Looking to get our 2" OME lift done during the next round of holidays.
Welcome Tad!
Actually the OME is really only a 1.5 inch lift. If your looking for a 2 inch lift, I would suggest checking out this website. www.4x4parts.com or if your looking for a 4" lift, check out Andrews website at www.krfabs.com here is the direct link to the lift. http://www.krfabs.com/product_detail.php?productID=2
Have a great turkey day!
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You know I've read about this is but I feel like it's almost like a body lift this wouldn't produce any travel gains from the suspension. I don't know I'd have to research it but that's one of the reasons I never did like a fabtech or packaged lift with the frontier as I would have lost overall ground clearance at the diff as those dropped the diff to gain lift everywhere else. I think I'll end up doing the 2 inc lift and seeing where that takes me. Thanks for the input either way!!
Actually this really isn't a body lift. Your adding a 4" spacer above the strut and in order to accomodate this much lift, you need to bring down the subframe due to the angle of the half shafts. The A/C springs will give you another 2" in front. The combination of the rear purches and WJ 4" springs will give it a 6" lift in the rear. Still replace the rear shocks with longer ones after the lift. Now you will have travel gains and ground clearance.
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I know some of you guys have removed the rear sway bar after the lift but i decided just to modify the links in the rear for more stability on the road.
I cut the links in half, purchases a steel bar the same size and cut it to 6" inches. Inserted two sleeves and each side and welded the steel bar in between the halves.
Here it is.
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Wow, clean install. Very nice.
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Welcome AZ Pathfinder, check out this website if your looking for a serious mod on that Pathfinder.
http://www.krfabs.com/product_detail.php?productID=2
Add the WJ 4" springs in the rear and A/C springs in the front and you will have a 6" lift on that Pathy. I just did mine 2 weeks ago.
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Thanks for posting those pics......did you ever post pics of the rig after the SFD??? I'm still looking.... How much clearance did you end up netting after the lift? What to see how the "Rake" if any with the 4" springs vs. the 6.5" (like Rick 13 had).
EVERYONE LOVES PICTURES!
I have a custom skid plate and some custom rear sway bar links to complete this weekend and then I will take some pics. Stay tuned.
No more Rake when using Krypton Fabrications purch adapters. It sits level.
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Yeah, Andrew makes some quality products. I can see how that new perch adapter will make the spring sit higher and help level the vehicle. Shoot, I still have my 4" WJ springs that are pre-cut to fit the upper perch if anyone is interested (just PM me and I bet we could work something out).
That sure is a nice looking steering linkage. Does the steering linkage allow for some minor length adjustment? Just wondering if you could still rotate the steering rack to better line things up. Just curious.
You can make small adjustments on the steering link. We still had to bend the drivers side bracket attached to the steering rack and add some washers to avoid to much bend in the linkage. After that, worked like a charm. I will take some great pictures this weekend. Not ready to add any yet since i'm welding on a 6" bar to expand both sway bar links in the rear and a custom made skid plate in the front. Stay tuned.
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Did you have to cut off any of the 4" springs???? If so, could you show how much with pics, like Rick13 did, if possible....again we love pictures!
Sure can, need to pull those pics from my friends camera this weekend.
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Still no pics, huh? Wanted to see how the WJ adapters turned out?
We can thank Andrew at Krypton Fabrications for these awesome new purch adapters for the R50 they are making now. This will level out the R50 when using WJ 4" springs in the rear. I purchased them with the bolts but decided to weld the adapters onto the rear purches anyways. Working on new rear swaybar links and front skid plate. Will have pictures for those this weekend.
The new steering links from Krypton Fabrications.
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Anybody else interested in these links? I won't be ordering mine until January.
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I will be interested in purchasing these links after January. Steve is still willing to sell these links if we can get a couple of people interested. I was advised that he will need at least 7 people at the min.
R50 Lower Control Arms $334.95 for the pair.
R50 Upper Control Arms $309.95 for the pair
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Thats literally what I did, took electrical tape and covered up the flashing light lol
HAHAHAAAHA, that is hilarious.
Checked with Nissan: Part Number B5554-5L325 wire assembly Clock Spring new is $339.33
This was an expensive mistake. Need to post that during the SFD install "DO NOT TURN STEERING WHEEL!!!!"
Pictures of my R50 with the SFD 6.5" and a few Trails i drove on with the JK Club.
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by Timmons
I know some of you guys wanted to see the outcome of my R50 SFD so here it is