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Timmons

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Posts posted by Timmons

  1. A member who used to come here, Alex (nissandoms47) had straps on his R50. Go to a local 4x4 shop and they can help you further.

     

     

     

    This would be awesome. I've replaced my bushings like 3 times (mainly because the oil deteriating it, and I get used ones - doh!). It would be nice for me to be able to steer correctly (and nbot have to tun the wheel a 1/4 turn before my wheels even think about turning). Keep us posted!

     

    Jose

     

     

    That would be great!! I'll try replacing the bushings with the polyurethane ones to see if it will help since mine are stock and never been replaced. Nice to see a fix that will help clean up the steering.

     

    Thanks for the recommendation on the straps, I'll check it out at our local "JEEP 4x4 shop LOL" since that's all we have here in El Paso.

  2. none. Do you have an auto or manual pathy?

    Auto has 4.6 gears

    manuals have 4.3 gears.

     

    Jose

     

     

    I have a Manual pathy Jose. Heard you can change out ring and pinon grears after an upgrade to the rims and tires that will correct your transmition timing, torque and speedometer. Any thoughts?

  3. I had the 2" AC lift installed mounted on 265/70R/17s BFG AT's KO's which I noticed that I get vibrations in the steering of the vehicle that are not related to wheel balance but more like the lift kit or tire size. Understanding that the vehicle now drives like a truck and not your mothers station wagon, is there some dampening that can be installed to lessen the noise through the steering? Only noticed this when going from stock to lift. Also, have any of you used straps to counter act the topping off of the strut when going over speed bumps?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Timmons

  4. pathlesstaken, CAE = cold air extension. the K&N FIPK is a simple WAI (warm air intake), in that the cone filter is in the engine bay sucking up warm air. a true cold air intake has a full tube that drops into the fender/bumper and sucks up the lower and denser, cold air. there are many intakes that have the ability to switch from a WAI or connect to a CAE that drops the filter into the bumper.

     

    at most, i've seen a K&N FIPK put 10 crank hp, which would essentially equate to about 5 or less WHP. with all the POPs that i've seen on the dyno, my NA Z put down about 7RWHP, i've seen TT Zs consistently put down at least 12RWHP, seen several SRs put down ~10RWHP, and the list goes on. the POPs are legit. the idea behind plastic tubing is there, however, one would also have to think about the loss of actual air through said tubing. the metal tubing is a much more solid material where less air escapes compared to the plastic tubing. the differences at our particular levels of performance are next to nothing. ultimately, the best solution would be to thermowrap a metal intake pipe, but like i said, we're not tuning our engines the way someone with a Z or what not would be. the only other thing that a plastic tube could do at our level compared to a metal tube would be to very slightly decrease overall engine bay temperatures, but again, pretty minimal.

     

    timmons, i would also agree with making your own tubing. i, honestly, wouldn't bother with a heat shield because they would essentially block a portion of the intake rendering part of the cone filter mildly useless and unable to suck as well as it could (that's what she said, ;)). the heat shield won't do anything in terms of bringing in any cooler air than normal. the only way to get a true cooler charge of air is to have a real CAI.

     

     

    I'm going to purchase this JWT POP charger and try it with the stock tube and then have a friend of mine use is dyno to see what the results are before and after. Then I'll try a different tube and then put it on the dyno again. I'll have the results at the end of this month and post it. I need to find a way to funnel cold air into this pop charger from the front of the pathy so I'll be looking for ways to pipe it in. Anyone has pictures of this mod, please feel free to post if you have had any successes on this. No sense in re-inventing the wheel so to speak. Thanks for everyones input.

  5. not sure of how much power the K&N FIPK makes since those are all relatively new compared to the POP chargers that have been out since the dawn of time.

     

    the difference between the two are mainly the MAF adapters. the POP charger MAF adapter is the patented venturi, that's what's drawing most of the air into the engine and increasing power. the other difference is that the K&N FIPK is a full intake (not a cold air, that i've seen some places say, unless it's not showing a CAE along with the part list), with larger diameter tubing, etc, however the problem with the K&N FIPK is that it's made of plastic, IIRC, and it's not the smoothest and best material for a free flowing intake.

     

     

    Sounds like I could make my own tube and attach the JWT POP charger on it for more free flow. Guess the next thing to do is also make a shroud to allow only cool air to enter the filter.

  6. Has anyone purchased the super chips to adjust for fuel injection and transmission points after a lift and over sized tires are put on? I heard you can improve your gas mileage, change the speedometer and also increase more HP and torgue using this method. It's a computer you hook up and you can choose fuel economy, power or for off-road conditions. I have a 1998 Pathy which I lifted and put on some 265/70/17R BF T/A KO tires and wanted to see if the super chips really make a difference as advertised.

     

    Thx

     

    Tim

  7. I installed the 2" AC All Rancho shocks and struts lift kit and I must say it just rocks!! Be sure to purchase to strut mounts and camber kits as well. This weeked I went I bought some new Pro Comp black 17x8 4.00 back spacing - rims and 4 new BF 265/70/17R AT KO tires. Didn't loose much power but the gas mileage did go down a bit. The fit is great and they look really tough on my 1998 Pathy. Decided to remove the step bars and mud flaps for some clearance and style. Looks very lifted now. With the white pathfinder and black Pro Comp rims, the vehicle looks very tough.

     

    Anyone had any luck with the armor undercariage plating from www.4x4parts.com? This is my next purchase along with some Warn lockers.

    Also looking for a great intake if anyone has any suggestions.

     

    THX!!

     

    Tim

  8. I dont know man, you may run into issues with rubbing on the inside of the fender well in the rear. And up front they will def NOT fit with a 5 bs. You will need wheel spacers no matter what you do. They are only like 85 bucks shipped. Cheaper than buying a set of wheels. You could even go and get some steel spare wheels and those would work. You can do like I did and paint your wheels if you dont like them. Thats going to set you back a day of work and about 50 bucks.

     

    Do you have the 3.5 liter engine? Wondering if I put these rims and tires on, how much it will change on my take off speed. Did you notice a big change on torque?

  9. Looks Awesome!! My 2" AC lift is going on tomorrow. Was looking for new Rims and Tires and this really inspired me to go with the 285/75/R16's now. You said the backspacing must be 4.25. So if I could get a rim that has a neg 5 back spacing, think that will work instead of the spacers? I would like the rims to work instead of buying the spacers if I'm going with the 33's.

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