pathlesstaken

Does the fluctuation in the RPM's start when you're around oh, say 2200-2400 rpm?

It's the only code coming up. Also, that solenoid controls the swirl valve specifically between 2400 and 2800 rpm's. That's exactly when the tach starts jumping and I start losing power.

It's not the MAF, it's the swirl valve control solonoid. P1130. fffffffffffff.....

Having some problems with the 03' 3.5 R50, and wondering if anyone else has had similar issues. First, the vehicle will stall when the engine is warm. This has been happening for 6-7 months, and was worse before I cleaned the MAF. I haven't had any problems since last year/ earlier this year but last night I watched the tachometer jump up and down after I hit the gas. There was a corrosponding power loss, but no stall or light. Today, I tried revving the engine when it was cold, while driving, same thing happened, now with the Service Engine Soon light on solid. The Pathy does this when cold or warm, up or down hill, I'll be getting the codes later today. Any thoughts?

When the engine is cool, the truck starts ok, when the engine is warm, it starts, then dies. When I unlplug the MAF with a cool engine, it idles rough(er) than with the MAF plugged in, when I unplug the MAF with a warm engine it dies, and when I unplugged the MAF it triggered the SES light.

yes they're clean. I have a feeling it's going to be a bad MAF. I'm going to try other stuff first, new plugs, fuel filter, cleaning throttle body, etc, before I go drop cash on a new MAF though. Anybody have any other suggestions?

So I installed a new steel bumper and as per procedure, disconnected the battery and front driver and passenger airbags prior to installation. Everything went fine, the new bumper is on, and all connections and parts were properly installed. Upon start up the pathy is now idling between 500 and 700 rpm, stalling with every start. I had a service engine soon light, so I reset the ECU (because I had the same issues immdiately after installing a K&N intake) and did the relearning procedures. However, they're not working this time. last time after I reset everything the pathy went back to normal. Now it won't, but it also hasn't lit the SES light again. I also had a problem with the moonroof, but a quick read through the owners manual helped me out there.

For those of us who just plan on doing the 2" or so suspension lift and not messing with a SFD, are there any good options to avoid topping out, other than straps?

I'm going to be adding stuff anyway, so it would be prudent for me to make the switch.

It seems as if doing the alternator upgrade at the same time as the fan switch would eliminate all but user error. question 1: Were you running other aftermarket electrical accessories (CB, Navigation, stereo, lights, etc) immediately before alty failure? question 2: After you switched to the dual fan set up and went offroading, did you notice any increase in the operating tempature of the engine that can be directly attributed to the conversion of an electric fan vs the stock fan?

I was looking at turbos and superchargers online today and got a serious case of sticker shock, I really didn't realize how much they were. I would be willing to spend up to $2000 for a supercharger but I won't drop $5000

then you'll have to stand on one leg on pole over a pit full of aligators while reciting the alphabet backwards in Hungarian and calculating pi to zero... Trying to find stuff for the R50 is a pain in the arse! Why must all the hoops be on fire?

It looks like the Jet V force performance plus, part # 67028 fits all 6 cylinder Nissans from 96-08, so I guess that includes my 03 pathy. Unless I find something better I might go with this. I didn't see any part availability for the VQ35 from superchips.

does anyone make turbo chargers or superchargers for the VQ35? I've seen stuff posted about using 350Z parts but google is totally &^%*ing useless, and Im having trouble with the search from my mobile...

Where did you find a chip at? I didn't think anyone was making chips for the R50's.

what about mounting a larger radiator?

On K&N's website, they show dyno sheets that claim 14.46 hp increase for their intakes (edit to add; for the 3.5 liter R50), this info is somewhat dubious because it originates from the manufacturer and not an objective source. If you look at K&N's other offerings, it seems that their metal intakes add less power and that the plastic ones add more, again that's according to their data. The way I understand it is that the plastic piping dissapates heat faster and/or retain less heat therefore providing cooler air than a metal intake. What is CAE?

What's the difference between this and K&N's intake kit? If this provides more horse power than the K&N can it be used instead of the K&N cone but in conjunction with the K&N intake tube and heat shield?

I was more worried about the loss of torque/hp due to changing the back pressure.

haha, that's why I came here first. I would run a straight pipe, but the gub'ment man says I has to have me some cats.

Yeah Im going all stainless, my stock exhaust is pretty rusted up, to the point where the rear resonator broke off when I hit a major pot hole. Anyone have part numbers for the magnaflow and flowmaster? also I need some high flow cats...

full custom, hmmmm. What about piecing together various performance parts from different manufacturers? does anyone make anything for the second gen R50's? I don't even know where to start for a custom job...

So after getting the K&N CAI installed and everything (seemingly) working correctly, I'm going to work on the exhaust. My problem is that when I called my mechanic about an exhaust, stainless steel, high flow cats, etc. he told me that no one makes a dedicated system that he could locate.I have an inspection due in a couple of days and am willing to put down some serious coin for a good performance exhaust, I just can't find one and didn't see any suggestions in the R50 forum, what do you guys reccomend?

Haha, no, didn't install it backwards, that would take a lot of work as it can only go on in one direction. The only thing that plugs in is the sensor plug. I reset the ECU and did the learning procedures, the SES is off and the truck is idling steady at 750 rpm. However I don't know if I did the idle air learning correctly as I couldn't get the SES to blink during the procedure.