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jgt

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Everything posted by jgt

  1. I had noise and it was a simple fix. The lower portion of the fan shroud wasn't seated properly and was 'barely' touching pulley wheels/belt during vibration. Doubt that's your problem, but doesn't hurt to check.
  2. I have an extra headlight/turn switch if your cleaning doesn't work. Just take a pix of the pins to make sure it's the same. good luck. -julie
  3. <rephrase> even a noob can do it! :tonguefinger:
  4. And if you take it out AND start the engine...YES oil will come gushing out....fast. Mine was replaced w/ a sending unit w/ a gauge (not just a dummy light) and the nylon wire got too close to the exhaust manifold. BRAAP oil all over. I replaced it w/ a copper one and all is good. Just get a new sending unit and do it yourself. Takes 10 minutes and even a girl can do it!
  5. jgt

    ground issue?

    The black end of the switch has a spring mechanism and it was slightly sticking out and needed to be flush for maintaining accessory/run positions. I could push it in and out and feel the spring return. I may have pulled it out a little when I removed the covers. The blower and turn signals would work intermittently depending on how the key was engaged. And when Mark looked down and saw that black plastic piece not flush, he knew that was the problem. He just tapped the end to make the contact tight so there was no spring release. Since I've been through 3 ignition switches, I bet that has been the issue everytime. Here's a guy w/ a 92 rangerover that had the same issue http://www.jpurnell.com/rr/repairs/IgnitionSwitch.htm
  6. jgt

    ground issue?

    figured it!! Was the spring on the ignition switch. Friend helped me trouble shoot it and tapped the end back in place with a hammer and screwdriver, voila.
  7. Mine was a missing spring. Didn't want to open, but if I pulled the hood release, someone else could wriggle it open. Check to see if the spring is missing. Cost $3 for the spring at napa, didn't need to replace the whole latch. hope it works.
  8. jgt

    ground issue?

    okay, folks help me out here. I think I may have shorted something when I changed the ground cable. I checked the fuel pump fuse and it looks good. My mechanic friend doubts its the fuel pump relay but thinks I shorted a fuse or something. any ideas?
  9. so are you saying, if my title says it's a 1992, then it's pre 7/92 production date? and if it were produced after, the title would say 1993? Thanks, the vin and emblem no. has no clues.
  10. When we repainted the truck, we sanded the sticker on the door w/ the production date. I need a part and some fit pre-7/92 and then another part after that date. Is there another way to tell? The truck was bought new in 10/92 so it could be either. thanks
  11. jgt

    ground issue?

    yep, was the battery ground strap! did the trick.
  12. where's the best place to buy them? Ebay is like $175 for warn, is that the best deal around? thanks
  13. hi soccerstud-I have a wiper switch for sale, email me if you are interested. My switch also is bad, but it didn't fit my '92 pathy. Came off a '94 or'95-julie
  14. jgt

    ground issue?

    hi all, I disconnected the (-) terminal on the battery so I could clean my wiper switch assembly. When I went back to reconnect to the battery, I snapped the old terminal. I cut/stripped the old wire and bought a heavy duty terminal replacement at walmart. Now the engine dies immediately after I start it up. Could it be the ground strap that connects onto the negative terminal? It's corroded very badly and btw, what is the purpose of this ground strap? I cleaned everything up and retightened it but it still dies asap. What do you think is my issue? I could buy a new ground cable, but thought I'd save a few bucks as the cable wasn't horrible. thanks guys . -julie
  15. jgt

    ps hose leak

    yep, thanks redpath. It certainly is the hp hose. Is install difficult? Will I have to remove the fan to get to it? thanks
  16. jgt

    ps hose leak

    hi all. I just found the leaking p/s culprit. Looks like the high pressure hose, the one that goes from the pump. When I look it up on checkers, it listes return or p/s hose. Is the return hose the low pressure one? Will I need to get the entire p/s hose? Anybody done this and can give me advice on replacement? thanks, any info appreciated. -julie
  17. hi guys-i did a search and found this old post,it's exactly what I needed to know. Where can I find this missing spring? can anyone tell me what the length/size is? thanks, julie
  18. uhmm, update, ima stupid noob. So I finally get a day off and get a pair of gloves on to better inspect my boots. They are not ripped. There was tons of green grease all along the creases of the cv boots, so I assumed that's where they were oozing from. When I wiped it off, there was no tear. I'm not talking a little grease, like someone took a huge handful of grease and splattered it under my truck. anyhow, like I had mentioned the tie rod end and upper/lower ball joints were replaced as was the centerlink. So I have no idea where that grease came from, it look just like the green goop that came in the package when we replaced the boot last year. Anyhow, I'll just keep an eye out for where that's coming from, but can't find a tear when I run my finger across the boots. The ball joints/centerlink doesn't use that type of grease does it? Thanks for the input. -julie
  19. thanks a ton guys. I will certainly look under the truck in the am and see if the clamps were cut or it something is hanging down on it. I suppose I should have the torsion bars checked also when I get these boot changed. Oh well, so much for saving a few bucks and having students at the CC do it.
  20. I never put a lift on it, but I'm wondering if the torsion bars were cranked up a bit by the previous owner. That's a good one to bring up to the mechanic. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing happening? Thanks
  21. Just had 3 of my 4 boots rip. So I had brand new axles installed. Hasn't been 1 tank of gas, now 2 of these have ripped. They replaced the axles, ball joints (upper and lower) 1 tie rod end and the centerlink at the same time. I used the 4wd in sand the other day for like 1 minute max. I think that's doing something. Any ideas? It was done at the college shop, so it was students doing it. Could they have done anything to cause this? My last cv's only last 10k and that's not 4 wheelin' like you guys. Thanks, julie
  22. rusted hood latch and has trouble opening and shutting. Tried lubing it but still a bugger. I found one on ebay, it's a 1992 2wd pickup. I assume it's the same? Does anyone know before I buy it now? thanks, julie
  23. yeah casey, we replaced 2 studs that were broke. But left in the ones that were in there, I had already asked too much from my friend and he didn't want to replace the 'good' ones even though I knew they were weak. Just one busted one and a tap that won't go away, I'm okay w/ it. On a good note, I've got NEW cv axles (r/l) and new tie rod ends, upper/lower ball joints and a new centerlink. Finally getting a proper alignment now and the front end will be solid. Can't wait til next monday when all will be finished!
  24. i've heard $500 labor from a mechanic recently. I've decided to live w/ the tapping.
  25. jgt

    split cv boot?

    okay, reman half shaft it is. Thanks guys.-julie
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