jgt

thanks for your input. Stick a flat tip in where? In that blue "T"?

nope, I thought of that one...but wouldn't it kinda sputter then die? This just cuts off like someone pulled the plug. I guess it wouldn't hurt to change it out though!

I bought a new ignition switch cuz my truck died yesterday as I was driving down the road. It's been needing to be replaced. Got it started again and got it home, but it'll intermittently die or have trouble starting. So when I got my new switch, this blue part was not situated the right direction for installation, I compared it to the original. So I took a screwdriver, stuck it in the blue "t" part and 'turned' it the right way so I could install it. It incrementally clicks as you turn this. There's no way it could fit if I didn't turn it. Anyhow, I got it installed, but it still dies. Could it be that me turning this blue part did damage, didn't feel wierd when it clicked. And why wasn't it correctly oriented when I bought it? Is this normal? Thanks, hope this makes sense. I'm quite sure this is my problem, the only other thing I did to the truck this week is buy a new battery. I'll double check the battery connection tomorrow, but my feeling is that it's this switch.

Hi, does anyone know exactly which part of the auto locking hubs is the usually suspect for not engaging/disengaging when it should? Which parts need lubed/cleaned specifically? Thanks, I always suspected a spring or something.

not yet! still on auto hubs. Good thought though.

My cv boots have been torn for some time and the grease is all out. I'm getting new axles this month, but wanted to ask a question. I'm getting a steering wheel shimmy (feels like a rt/lt shimmy as I'm driving straight) and was wondering two things: 1) is this most likey caused by the bad cv joints? 2) Is this shimmy causing wear on my other steering parts? (cuz i just had new ball joints/ tierod ends and centerlink installed recently) wondering if I should do it asap in case I'm doing damage to my new parts. The boots have been torn for about 3-4k miles. thanks, julie

aloha! Julie here from wailuku. Found this forum when my friend helped me fix up a '92 pathy for my surfmobile. The forum has been SUPER helpful ever since to keep her running. I'm no 4x4'er, just a maui cruzer. anyhow, CHOKE surf this week. wahoo. That's a crazy surf picture there (going left at jaws?) and a BEAUTIFUL sunset fueler. Another sh*%ty day in paradise!

same shimmy here. Had the centerlink replaced, upper and lower BJoints, and 1 tierod end. Then 4w alignment. Cost alot, and the thing still shimmys.

Hi Izguthrie- Here's a link to mine if you haven't read it already. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry341406 I haven't replaced mine yet, but it needs to be replaced but I keep tapping the plastic end tight when it acts up, bad design. The last time it was replaced, only the switch was replaced, not the entire thing w/ the cylinder lock and keys. I'm thinking of doing this so I won't have to have 2 keys and it's $70 vs. $200. Also the old assembly needs to be drilled out for the new one to be installed. Let me know how your install goes, I'm waiting to decide whether to spend $$ on this or cv axles.

yep, the manual calls for dextron ATF for the power steering. My local napa and autozone didn't carry it, finally found it at walmart. It was the dextron III/mercon ATF.

hi mike-if it's the high pressure hose, yes, it's recommended to replace the entire hose. I just did it a few weeks back on my 1992 pathy. Here's what I did: -drained the p/s tank -remove fan shroud (I had to take the fan clutch out, but others say you can finesse it out) -remove the hose clamps -loosen the bolt to the p/s switch, then remove the banjo bolts, they are 15/16" size Then I reattached the line, but not too tight first so I could get the clamps lined up first and tightened. I was pretty easy. Bleeding it was a breeze too. - julie

I had the same thing happen to me. Does you truck have auto locking hubs? I believe that was my problem, the auto hubs weren't engaging and disengaging properly. Took it apart and reassembled it and all seems fine now. I'm sure the gurus here will have the answer to what and why. btw, are you thai or do you just have a screenname that sounds like tasty dish I've had in bangkok?

yep was a piece of plastic in the blower motor. No mo' noisy rattle at 3 and 4.

thanks for the post! it really was that easy. I will add a few pix. 1) the plastic hinges holding the lower part of the glove box 2) the metal piece, 4 10mm bolts and 2 screws to remove 3) suck out the debris

thanks guys, that link was very helpful. Hope my 92 is the easy year. update: did the heat resistor cleaning thing, added pix to that link, thanks. So after I assembled everything, I realized that I wasn't having burnt smell issues. Duh, should have cleaned the intake unit for junk and pulled out the blower motor. So it's still making the noise, I'll do it this weekend! Either way it's good to know it's clean and I won't be starting a fire should I EVER have to use the heater here in hawaii

I'm having an issue with my fan turned up to 4, it makes alot of noise and sounds bad. In low and med, the fan sounds fine, no noise. So it sounds like there's stuff in my blower motor fan. Has anyone cleaned this and how do I get to it? Do I remove the glove box to get to it. that's where the sound is coming from. thanks-julie

sorry...newbie not sure what FSM is. Is it like a WMD?

really?? I will have to look closer, cuz it sure seems like I have to take the fan clutch out. I've taken the lower strip off, what year is your truck?

no problem taking the lower shroud piece off. On either side of the lower shroud, press in the plastic notches on the side w/ your thumbs and it'll slide right out.

do I have to take off the fan clutch to pull the fan shroud out of the way? Tried to pull the HP p/s hose from the bottom, not working even with the lower radiator hose undone. thanks, julie

thanks precise, that's it, go it.

okay, this leaky hose is getting to be a mess, so I'm finally changing it out. I can't figure how to get this bracket off. Im sure it's simple...but I can't seem to figure it. The bracket is on the pass side. Any suggestions?

sc88-try lightly tapping it flush w/ a screwdriver like this.

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry341406 is the link. click on the picture and you'll see where mine was faulty. It'll take 10 minutes to pop off the plastic covers and peek at the ignition switch. Check to see if the black plastic piece on the switch is flush.

hi sc88-I'm sure you may have already seen my iginition switch post earlier. But that was my exact symptoms. I thought it was a bad ground, then a fuel pump or relay, or a fusible link....it was the iginition switch on mine.