- Sign In Changes: You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password. Using your display name and password is no longer supported.
- If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.
BenStoked
Members-
Posts
51 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by BenStoked
-
regardless, with all the problems, i am starting to suspect bad wiring somewhere, or really bad luck
-
93 has 245K on the odometer.
-
did you break it off so the fluid would leak? if so, try and find a way to plug it. I know it's late, but it'll save you alot of hastle, as every single ounce of fluid in your system will start destroying other stuff in the system from water absorption (seen it happen before...)
-
but almost on topic. anyone have the size of the starter bolts? both mine were missing when I got the truck (PO took the starter out, and I got nuttin' )
-
gonna ditto B's post. Recently worked on my brother's prelude that was exhibiting the same behavior. The nipple to the reservoir tank was clogged, so it couldn't draw in the coolant when it cooled off. a few minutes with a paperclip took care of that (had to be careful not to get it in the radiator).
-
hey, B, what kind of washers did you use on there; anything special? also, you see any problems running these bolts on stock manifolds? (I agree, $5+ for hardware:omg:)
-
I highlighted and quoted this part, because the z32 has a DOHC vg30de or vg30dett, completely different block, heads, etc. etc. some parts may interchange, but most won't; this list doesn't apply to our trucks.
-
Headlights BOTH randomly go off, and turn back on?
BenStoked replied to zeppelindrummer's topic in The Garage
if they are anything like the ones on my Maxima, an emery board, or fine grit sand paper should be all you need. you are basically cleaning off the carbon, and getting the contacts to touch, again. you don't want to scuff it up too much, tho, just until they are shiny. if the switch is anything like the maxima, tho, each head light has a separate contact inside the switch. not sure how much difference there is between the two (and I am away from any FSMs to compare), but if they are similar, I have concerns about it being the switch. if I am wrong, carry on.... -
it's gonna get replaced, right? sure that should be fine. if you get one from a junk yard, I would recommend reverse drill bits to save that housing. just backs 'em out. you could go ahead and get them for this, too, to get some extra practice.
-
if it's cranking but not firing, and you are sure they added oil, check to make sure they didn't screw with the ignition (cap, rotor, crossed wires, etc) when they dumped it. also, it wouldn't hurt to check for blown fuses. compression/leak down test wouldn't hurt, either, if you smell gas, and he "said" bad valve (of course could have been a busted exhaust component, they did treat her rough)
-
a bit of info from the 2nd/3rd gen maxima guys (also a vg30e). Bosch spark plugs are crap for jap cars. NGK only (after that is all preference and mods) Bosch plug wires/cap/rotor are fine. I have put about 30,000 on my bosch wires (on my maxima), and I think the cap/rotor are too. (sorry if I seem to talk about the Max too much, it seems I have mentioned it in half my posts so far. if I ever get the dang pathfinder runnin'(), I'll be more than glad to talk about it, too.)
-
I would imagine pretty much any lock smith should be able to do it, since it should be part of the training they get. it will more than likely cost more to have the mobile locksmith do it, than taking them out and to a locksmith shop. while you are taking out/installing, would you mind taking a couple of pics for me? for some reason mine is missing the clip that holds it in place, and the part that connects it to the to the actual lock mechanism, and the FSM pic i found is worthless....
-
What length bolts did you use? think a split washer would prevent backing out? I have also heard of people buying allthread, cutting it down, and using that. not sure how well it would work, since it seems pretty soft compared to a hardened bolt/stud.
-
I have found Brian, who owns and runs internetautosupply.com, to have really good prices. he doesn't have many pathfinder parts listed, but if you go to his contact page, and let him know what you are looking for, he will usually add it. heck, he got the stuff for the 93 pathy added just for me. He is known on Maxima.org (username is inernetautomar, if anyone has a maxima), and has been around for a while. Since I am rebuilding the motor I am putting in my pathy, I ordered a few things from him; IM gaskets, water pump, t-belt kit, totaled $173, shipped. without the gaskets ($50), it would have been less than half of the courtesy kit, plus buying all the other stuff (do you really need a new spring stud?)
-
In the past, I have heard of people using a long screw driver in the #1 cyl to find tdc. remove the spark plug, gently slide the long screw driver in until it touches the piston. rotate the crank, until the screw driver stops going up (piston is at/near tdc.) I recommend electric tape wrapped around the shaft and head to prevent damage to the piston and spark plug threads, if you try this. looking at the engine I am taking apart, you may be able to tell a damaged valve; if the valve should be closed, it should have a certain height. if a valve is bent, it will not raise up as far as it should. the damage may be nearly invisible to the naked eye, so complete disassembly would be required to inspect everything. I wouldn't bother, you will either need a new engine, or won't. the time/energy to remove everything to check, and then the time/energy to reassemble + gaskets, if everything checks out okay, you will find out just as easily by slapping a new belt on, and cranking it up (if it won't start, it's toast, anyway). (edit: this is all presuming the t-belt is actually the problem. until you actually see a broken belt, it's all speculation, right?)
-
Single Over [each] Head Cam relatively common misunderstanding. edit: z32 300zx was a vg30De, meaning dohc. was a twin cam engine (too bad it won't fit my maxima, or the pathy, without major work. that'd be fun.
-
I would recommend getting OEM head gaskets, as I have read the cheap ones have a tendency to blow
-
Since the link is dead, here is one that currently works: Factory Service Manuals
-
i think he may mean the antenna's two prong. i that case, need this adapter: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390115526793&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=%3F*F%3F&GUID=669d17ba1230a0b587173167fffe6bca&itemid=390115526793&ff4=263602_263622
