Nickj

There's a few of us in AU that have also done this mod with similar fuel mileage figures. I used the Nissan Navara front hubs that had the same spline count as the Pathy. I used a 104mm hole saw to make the hole in the wheel cover. They look sweet, as do yours Oregonian. Some of us have noticed the 4wd lamp flickering sometimes but no pattern to it. Also, I think the US transfer case is different to the AU one so the oil pump issues are eliminated. Nick

I think you could also fit an onboard compressor and cabin mounted up/down controls to make things easier for you. You can adjust from inside the cabin.. :-) Nick

Cyril Does the sq tube sit in the corner of the seam just below the sill? Or are they at the level of the lowest point of the underside? ie. rear trans crossmember? I picked up the steel finally today. I bent up some round tube for the steps but I am not happy with it. Lucky I only bent 1 side. Nick

getting closer..... I got a new liner for my mig last week! Pick up steel this weekend.... Nick

I don't plan on stopping in the middle of river crossings. I know this can happen though due to many reasons. Nick

Quite simple, it isn't. It just helps to keep the water out of the engine bay area and electrics. My model Pathy has a pre-air box under the left fender with a couple of chambers in it. Not sure which other year models also have these. The actual intake height on my model is just under the top of the fender almost level with the bonnet. The air or water has to flow down the pipe to the bottom of the first chamber, then up to the top and into the next chamber, then fill that up before it can get drawn in. Thats the theory anyway. There would be a big air lock under there which would eventually fill up with water if the car was stationary for any length of time. Except for a quick dip in the river! Nick

Hey all I felt the need to add this useful device for all to share as an alternative to fitting a snorkel to your Pathy. Myself, I don't see the value vs cost and trouble to fit a snorkel for the amount of REAL use it will actually get. We don't have many deep water crossings round our way, but there are a couple that I love doing that will get water well over the bonnet when the river is up. So rather than a snorkel (I have never been a fan of them) I set about doing something easy, adaptable and cheap. I bought a poly tarp from the local hardware store, I think it was 6ft x 4ft (180cm x 120cm), some 8mm shock cord and some 2.5mm fencing wire. Laying the tarp across the bonnet, long ways across the bonnet, you can then meaure up your shock cords for the guards. I just hooked one on each guard flare, if you tie them firm but not too tight, you can use the tarp for other vehicles, including bullbar/nudge bar equipped cars. When you do the underside hooks, don't need to use shock cord. Just attach the hooks direct. The tension in the flare hooks will keep them in. Here are some pics. Note** Hook on the lower side, hook and shock cord on the upper side. Tarp fitted before river entry Have fun! Nick

As soon as we pull off the bitumen and on to the dirt tracks, we stop to air down and lock the hubs. This is a great time to screw that cap on if deep rivers are approaching. I leave my cap in the glove box but you could leave it floating around in the air box. It can't go anywhere. Nick

yes it does finish just inside the fender area and yes the cap is screwed on inside the air box. Nick

Hey all Unless you have a snorkel fitted, the Pathy does suffer a little from air intake capacity. I did this simple and cheap mod to help both air flow and be able to plug it up when doing river crossings. Well, after a trip to my LP Gas mechanic for a tune up last year to find they drilled 2 x 25mm holes in the bottom of the air box to allow better air flow, I decided to follow Geoff57 (PCOA) and do a better job than they did. It cost less than $20! Before I used a black poly "riser pipe" and cap of about 60mm diam. The cap is used for water crossings to seal the new air intake up to stop water ingress. The end of the pipe protrudes through the hole into the inner guard. I held the pipe in and sealed up the gaps with Silasek which I bought from the Hardware store. The parts. They are rural water pipe fittings available from your rural pipe parts shop. about 60mm diam. Removed the airbox and mark the direction of the hole with some tape so that I knew which angle to drill it on. I used a 2 5/8 hole saw to cut the hole, it was a litttle bigger than the pipe but I wasn't going to buy the right size. the Silasek takes up the small gap. Finished item, please excuse the sun glare in the pic, the Silasek doesn't really make a mess, just looks that way. :roll: Nick

As others have said, you have 16" wheels. (see side wall of tyre) I have 110mm backspace 15" wheels (ex Mitsubishi NJ Pajero) with 31 x 10.5 x 15 tyres with 2" lift front and rear. They don't rub, except in extreme articulation and full steering lock. No body mods. Nick

I think I have read somewhere that you can add spring pressure to the clutch pack

IMHO, combined with a highly sprung rear LSD, this is the best bang for buck in the performance stakes. I need to highly spring my rear LSD. Nick

Now with pics. My 17yr old daughter driving up a 30cm rockledge Daughter again climbing up some rocks working the Lokka hard! Nick

Back to making holes in the wheel caps to clear the manaul hubs. You can also use a hole saw, I used a 105mm one to fit around my Navara manual hubs, Works well. Nick

There is a correct method for timing our Australian model R50s. Maybe the same for yours. I think you need to remove one of the electrical plugs on the throttle body when you adjust it as the computer will compensate for any changes. Check your correct workshop manual for the correct procedure. Nick

skulptr quite correct. Both bits. Nick

Like a few other Aussies, i have just done a 2 1/2 into single 2 1/2 from the cats back as my OEM system suffered bit from when my Pathy was at stock height! it sounds ok and doesn't drone. Seems a bit better torque but does need a tune. Will report back here after a tune up. Don't forget we run the VG33 here. Nick

What a great topic! 2004 TI 188,567km Nick

Sweet sliders! Nick

WOW that is close to the rear guard lips...... It does look awesome! Were you still going to post a "how to" or will that be in the "how to" section?? Nick

For all you overseas people, here in AUS we just say "BUGGER" ! Bad luck Dan. That's one noise that wont dissappear by turning up the radio! Nick

That's another topic in itself..... Nick

I am just throwing a few things to help. Plug leads or ignition coil? It does sound like a missing spark problem, as it seems to happen under acceleration. Like when you wash the engine and get some moisture under the dist cap. You have eliminated the Cap and rotor button. I guess you can see the $$ starting to mount up, but will be a well tuned up car once fixed. Keep us updated on your progress. Nick

Nice truck, how do the CVs go witht hat much lift? I would tip you would wear out CV boots quickly if you dont have free wheel hubs. Looks good though. Nick