Northernpathy
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Posts posted by Northernpathy
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If possible, I would try and either buy a quick connect/disconnect kit, or get one fabbed. Would save you a lot of time and effort. But if not, then just do what nunya said and use zip ties. I have a huge pack in the truck at all times and they always come in useful for things like this. Plus they are cheap at like 1-5 cents each, so it isn't going to break the bank
Then there is always duct-tape. But that might be too getto for your rig
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There are two pumps on the reservoir. One by the other inside the front passenger wheel well. You have to pull out the front splash guard to get to it.
You might have a pinched line going to the back. I had the same problem for the front a while ago. Could be that. Could also be a dead fuse or relay.
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Well the only thing you can do is replace the pathy with a hardbody and they will fit!
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I have the 3.5 so I don't think a pic will help since you have the 3.3 and it is connected up different. I looked on the net but couldn't find a good picture for you
This is the best I can find, but it doesn't give an close up details on vacuum line connections.
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Looks good.
Gotta see what I can do about the one in my hardbody. I find the orange lettering hard to see on a bright day while driving. Would be so much better to have it in white like that.
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Yup OEM Nissan hubs.
Looks like they might be a later model, as the ones I have on my 88 hardbody has "4x2" and "4x4" written on them instead of "Free" and "Locked". Unless that is just a thing they did for the pathys.
Edit: Never mind. Looked at the HB and it does say free and locked. The newer Warn ones on the Pathy are the ones that say 4x2 and 4x4
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Standard exterior silicon sealant from the hardware store (same stuff you use to seal around windows). You can buy it many different colors (my hardware store has like 30-40 colors) and is easy to apply. Is also easy to remove later on if you want to professionally fix the hole.
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is it me or this setup (maxima) will create a huge mess when he changes his filter.....? !
Yes and no. Unless he gets an anti-drain back oil filter, the oil will just drain back into the engine when the engine is off. So if he wants to change his oil he will have to let the car sit with the engine off for 30mins or so.
It is not uncommon to have oil filters like that. The two oil filters on my deuce army truck are inverted by design.
But the only reason he installed the oil filter bracket like that was due to space. He couldn't fit it the other way around or else he wouldn't have enough space to remove the filter. You can install the filter bracket in the kit the other way around if you wanted.
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Did a quick search on "oil filter relocation kit VQ35". This guy bought a pre made kit for his Nissan with the VQ35DE:
http://forums.maxima.org/general-maxima-discussion/357337-oil-filter-relocation-success.html
Link to the kit: http://tinyurl.com/24h2f2t
You have to search for SKU# HY291 for a 2002 Maxima for it to show up in the search for some reason.
Kit is $58.
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I was just watching Jims video, he seems to have used the exact same kit I linked to. THey really must be universal, I was wonderring why it had 2 o rings to seal against the engine
Yeah but his isn't an R50 with the 3.5L. No guarantee it will fit/work on your engine.
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Sounds good. I look forward to your review on it!
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Is common as hell on the Nissans. I have the problem in both my 01 Pathy and my 88 Hardbody.
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God damn that skid plate is nice I cant stop looking at it!!
Why not buy one from fleury then and save the hassle on your remote oil filter setup and have a heavy duty skid plate?
He sells them for the R50's: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22475
I got one on my pathy. It replaced my home made one and is much nicer.
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This is the only promising link I have found. OPn ebay ofcourse.
Do you guys see any reason why that wouldnt fit and thread onto the stock location?? Assuming the thread pitch it the same. The one end just spins on like a filter, then mount the other end where I want it with new filter (im unsure what filter this thing uses but that shouldnt be to hard)
Then I can get 2 -8an lines made up and poof...
Any reason that wont work? Prones to warped flanges? Leaks?
The orientation of the lines looks to be correct for placement on our engine and would have the lines facing down and foward where I dont believe there is anything in its way...
Eh. Hard to say.
The ebay system seems to be messed up and won't let me check if it is compatible with the pathy. I would send the seller a message and ask him to start off with.
Not sure about quality. Looks like some cheap chinese/japanese performance part that they import by the thousands for only a couple bucks each. Not sure if I would trust something so important to keep your truck running that only costs $38.
Like a lot of things, you might have to be the guinea pig and buy one to see if it works. Most people thought the relocation kit from the xterra would fit as it looked and measured up good, but once installed it was nothing but problems.
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Looks good. Nice and clean. I am not a fan of the off center tires, but do what works for you!
When you building a new front bumper?
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There is no relocation kit for the 3.5
Many people have tried many different setups and nothing has worked.
There is a kit for the xterra people have tried to fit on the pathy, but it has never worked out either and leaked like hell.
Only way right now is to get a machine shop design/machine an adapter for you. But that would mean big bucks.
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Good to have you!
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It is a reasonable price for the time/labor involved in developing the patterns, buying of metal to have in stock, then someone to make them, etc, etc.
Glad to see another company offering parts for our trucks.
See, but even with their plate, you'd still have to modify it (does it look THIN to anyone else?)
I think that is just due to the way the picture is laid out. They likely had to erase the background in the picture to put in that technical looking one, and that probably caused the edges of the metal in the picture to get screwed up. But I would check with them first on the thickness of the metal before ordering just to be sure.
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Nothing new really. I read that a lot of big companies like Apple, Microsoft, IBM, Ford, GMC, etc all have at least a few lawyers sitting on a computer all day just to look for things like this. They also send out hundreds of "cease and desist" orders every year for things like this and 75% of them are really stupid. Was something in the news 1-2 years ago about a school or something that had an apple in the logo and Apple Inc (the computer company) was going to sue them unless they changed it, even though it looked nothing like the Apple Inc logo.
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There are TONS of people who have posted info here on their lifts. Looks around in the R50 section or in the members rides sections.
Next thing is what do you want to do with your truck? Do you just want it to look lifted or are you actually going to go wheeling with it? How much do you want to spend? How much of the work can you do yourself?
Very hard to give you an exact answer without more info. Is like asking "I want to buy a house. Which house should I buy?" without saying anything else. There are many choices out there and more info is needed so what we can give you suggestions.
I put in the 4x4parts.com 2" lift and am very happy with it and would do it again.
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Snapped one on the R50 and never got around to fixing it. No problems so far, even 4 months later. Even after wheeling with it twice. Though I blew the CV on the other side this weekend, so it looks like I will finally get around to changing it during the holiday break. While I have one side apart, I might as well fix that side.
You should be fine running around with one snapped one, but I would recommend changing it as soon as you can just to be sure.
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Go to an auto body supply place and get some seam sealer. You can get it in tubes (that go in a caulking gun) or in a can that you can brush on. It's meant to finish off welded floors but it should keep you dry until spring. Put some on the inside and outside of the truck.
Yup do that then after it is somewhat dry, go to Canadian Tire and get a can of Rocker Guard and spray it. That will seal it good and protect the sealant and metal.
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$100-120 from NAPA here in Canada.
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If you buy a hardbody with the king cab, it has the jump seats in the extended cab for kids to sit on.
Also, if the truck is going to be off-road only, you can likely pick up a hardbody that won't pass a safety check for cheap. I can buy tons of them up here for less than $1k.
If you still want to go with modifying a pathy with a flat-bed on it, you will just have to be the guinea pig and be the first one to do it. Someone has to do it, might as well be you. I converted an M109A3 deuce truck into a camper before most people had really done it. I learned a lot, and it was a lot of fun. Now everyone asks me how I did it
For instance, I really like what this guy has done to his hardbody with the flat-bed box he built for it. Looking at doing something the same with my truck in the future. Someone has to be the first to do it.
alternative front and rear bumper mods
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I have to agree 132% here.
Back in the day they use to make "real" bumpers out of metal. Now-a-days they are all made out of either plastic or very thin sheet metal, which won't even survive a hit by the neighbors poodle!