moto-m

I cursed at it......then apologized

Just an update. I am flashing 6 codes now! P0325, P0505, P1490, P1105, P0446, P1400. Not sure what the hell is going on. I have been having slow starting issues, replaced the starter yesterday but doesn't seem to have completely fixed it. I have a quest alternator that I will be installing soon so we will see if that helps. Battery is not very old and has good voltage. Anyone know if it is possible to have some kind of electrical problem that would be sending bad readings to all these sensors and flashing the codes?

I have a 98 and apparently I need to wire the MSD inside of the distributor cap. Anyone know how to do this or have a diagram?

Is there no HD rear spring? I don't care about ride quality and also tow a lot. Just want height and even stance.

Thanks, but checked all that already. When I extended the IAT sensor wires I soldered them and they are solid. I am thinking it isn't a problem at all with the IAT. I cleaned and reoiled my filter when I installed the intake and am starting to think I went overkill on the oil and it has fouled the IAC sensor. Will try and clean throttle body and run some sea foam through it today. Hopefully it will clean up and isn't permanently damaged. Truck is running damn good though besides the idle. More power and hopefully gas mileage improvement. Love the sound of the intake and can't wait to hear it after the exhaust. I also cut a hole in the front bumper near the foglight and ran some flex tube to the opening where the old resonator ran. If anyone is thinking about doing this go to the section at autozone where they sell all the universal intake stuff and get two 3" flanges and a flex tube (all made by spectre). The flex tube comes with two rubber couplers (you can only see one in the package but there is another inside the tube). You get everything you need except two hose clamps which you'll need for the connection to the flanges. Screw one flange on the backside of the bumper where you want your hole (I did this first then cut out hole with exacto knife following lines of flange), drill holes and screw the other flange under the hood, then connect. Works great. Yes I know you can do this for cheaper but I wanted to keep it simple and a nice clean install.

I lied, light is back on. Try again tomorrow....bed time

Well I think I fixed it. Seems like it was just a vacuum leak. I went over everything and noticed the tubing was larger than the vacuum ports. Even though they were tightened down with hose clamps i decided to get larger ports that fit the hoses tighter. I drilled larger holes and sealed the rubber grommets to the intake tube with silicone. I also sealed the ports when they were inserted in the grommets. Then I wrapped some electric tape around the IAT sensor body to give it a snugger fit when it was inserted into the rubber grommet. While I was in there I cleaned the MAF and IAT sensors. Code hasn't come back on yet.

Now I am starting to wonder if my truck has a california version ECU. Anyone know if they are different or if the differences are strictly mechanical?

California is really starting to piss me off

That's what I thought. Are the pipes a direct fit if I swap them out? I am thinking about doing that then cutting the exhaust at the muffler and going performance from there back. Seems like the most economical way.

So I am looking into swapping out the extra resonators after the cats with straight pipes and this is what I was told from a seller on ebay: "This pipe will not work for you. You have a converter in your system, Ca emissions, and this is for Fed emissions only. If you replaced your converter with this pipe, you will trip the computer and run the risk of ruining all your converters. If you send us your make, model, year, engine size, and side you need, we will look for the right replacement for you." Aren't the pipes just extra resonators? There is no oxygen sensor after them so I don't see how it would do anything.

Even if relocating it is causing an out of range reading, shouldn't it be a different code? I don't think the problem should have to do with the IAT sensor. I will check for any kind of vacuum leaks, run some sea foam spray cleaner through the throttle body, and reset the ecm. We'll see what happens. I wonder if during the new intake build the IAC got dirty or something. I have noticed that the idle is less than it used to be (between 500-750 rpms now).

Also, I have the california emissions versions which has extra resonators after the cats. Do you have the straight pipes after the cats?

IAC sensor?

I was checking my fuse panel (troubleshooting my earlier post about code P0505) when I noticed that fuse #16 was blank and fuse #21 had a fuse but the diagram shows it should be the opposite?

Would it be a bad idea to remove the cats and install an oxygen sensor simulator? Would I lose substantial torque?

Yeah, I am trying to figure out exactly what the IAT does on my truck. Even if relocating wasn't necessary, it was easy and it's a nice clean install in the intake tube. I'm just not sure why I'm getting the idle air control valve code. Is it possible the computer needs time to adjust?

Here are some pics. It was at night so not the best quality. You can see in the second one on the right where I located the IAT (had to extend the wires).

I built a custom intake for my 98 R50. I relocated the IAT sensor (from the air resonator behind the front driver fog light) into the new intake tube just behind the MAF sensor. So now it goes filter, MAF, tube with vacuum ports and IAT sensor, throttle body, engine. Running great and idling smoother than ever but now I am getting engine codes P0505 and P0325. Anyone know what would cause this and how to fix it? Does the IAT need to be back outside the filter? I didn't think it would have this affect from relocating it.

Yeah, that's what I was going to do. But now I saw those California emissions pipes under my truck and am so tempted to chop them off.

Also, can I get rid of the mess of heat shields? Now I am thinking about what Kingman said, trashing everything from the cats back and doing a Y-pipe to a single system.

Looked under my truck and looks like I have the California emissions exhaust version. See parts 20010 and 20020 from the diagram below. Can I delete these and put straight pipes? Will this improve performance?

I noticed the D34 and D34-78 seem to be the same except the D34-78 has top and side terminals. Also, the D34-78 has 800 cranking amps and the D34 has 720. Weird thing is that the D34-78 is less money? Where do you get the adapter plate?

Anybody know which yellow top optima battery is the best size/fit for the R50? I was thinking the D34-78.