moto-m

All the alternators I see for Nissan Quests fit models from 1993-1998 or 1999-2002, not 2000-2003? Is the 99-02 one the correct alternator? Thanks.

Also, would it be better to repipe from the cats back or leave the stock piping to the muffler?

Not sure yet but I was thinking magnaflow. Should I get a single in/out or a dual in/single out?

I have read through other topics about exhaust for the R50 but am still unclear as to the best way to go. I am looking at deleting the resonator and installing a performance muffler with a single outlet. I am thinking about using as much of the stock tubing from the cats so I don't lose torque. Would it make sense to just cut off the exhaust from righ before the muffler, put in the performance one, then run it to the back? What size inlet/outlet should I use?

On average, how many miles does the manual transmission on the r50s last before needing a rebuild?

Found a kit that says it is OEM. Exedy is the brand. Are they the OEM manufacturer for the clutches?

I bought this truck with 95k miles on it and it supposedly just had a new clutch installed. I trust the guy I bought it from and he gave me the receipt (will look at it when I get home to see how much it cost), but I wonder if he got jacked because I'm at 145k now and the bearing won't shut up and sometimes it's hard to get it in gear. The bearing has made some noise before, but I just recently started towing a boat and now I hear it all the time. So the stock clutch is better than a Centerforce Stage II? I just thought it would make more sense with the boat and offroading and stuff.

My clutch needs replacement so I just called the local Meineke and they wanted $816 for the labor (going to order a Centerforce clutch and have someone install it). Said it was 10 hours of labor. All sounds ridiculous to me. Anyone have an idea of a fair price to do the install? Also, he said it is good idea while you are in there to replace the flywheel and the rear engine seal. Is this a bunch of bull? Thanks.

He is a miniature pinscher and chihuahua mix. Be careful what you say, he is a part-time ninja.

Yes, the economy has gotten so bad I have to put the dog to work. Ok, maybe I just want some new wheels. Just vote for Hunter if you think he is cute enough. Thanks. http://www.cutestpetcontest.com/bigpic.php?enum=100346537

Turned out to be the fan clutch. Just replaced it. Thanks!

Yeah, I'm going to do that this weekend. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks.

Fluid level is fine.

For the last few days now I have a whirring noise coming from my engine. It is fairly loud and easy to notice that something isn't right. It gets louder as the engine revs hire and seems to have been getting worse since I first noticed it. I would describe it as sounding like something that is out of balance spinning fast or like a bad bearing. I let my father (engineer) listen to it and at first he seemed to think of it as a bad idler pulley, but then he was leaning toward the timing belt or water pump. I hope this is not the case since I paid for a full timing belt/water pump service at 105,000 miles (now have 125,000 miles). I am questioning if I really got what I paid for. Anybody have any ideas what the noise could be? Thanks.

I am going with a 2" ac lift, but I am still a little confused about if I should get strut spacers and what size? Anyone have any pics with/without spacers? Does it make a big difference in leveling out the truck? Will the front sag after awhile without the spacers? Thanks for the help.

In the end, everything worked out fine and I am actually glad that the stock studs stripped because I feel much more confident with the Warn studs. And no, I didn't just now finish. I just forgot to update everyone. I would recommend that everyone install the studs, washers, and locking nuts provided by Warn. They are much stronger than stock. The JB weld idea only worked on one or two studs and I felt pretty stupid when I discovered a stud remover at Harbor Freight. Worked great. I know that you can install the hubs without removing the wheels, but I would recommend that you don't try this as it is much easier to work without the wheels on. Just calculated my gas mileage and went from about 16 to 18.7! Very happy!

Yea, that's what I was thinking. I used to have a Dodge Dakota sport truck that was pretty modded. The guy who did most of the work didn't recommend the cats because you lose back pressure, thus lose torque. He preached of torque multiplication for trucks and suvs where towing was a concern.

Getting ready to get an exhaust system installed and was just wondering if you guys recommend just going with a cat back or installing some hi-flow cats? I am concerned about losing torque with the hi-flow cats. Thanks.

XPLOR, Can you give some more info on the camera setup? That is bad ass. I want it. Thanks.

Well, I finally got them off after prying them off the seat with several different screwdrivers then using the backs of two hammers. What was supposed to be a simple installation has turned into a nightmare. I left the stock studs and the first hub seemed to go on fine. Then I started on the second and 2 bolts stripped. One of the studs unscrewed out and I spent probably an hour drilling off the nut on the other stripped bolt. I finally got the hub off and decided I'd better take off the other one and install the studs provided. So, I stand tonight with no hubs on and nuts JB welded to the old studs so that I can screw them out easily tomorrow. I guess that is why they provide new studs. Any tips on installing these? Should I just put some permanent lock-tite on and screw them in? Also, I'm not going to but I was just curious if you could drive the truck without the hubs? I don't see why not except for the fact that you would get dirt and brake dust up in everything.

I am trying to install manual hubs, and I can't even get one of the frickin dust caps off! I'm going to freak out! Any tricks?

98 Pathfinder SE Thinking about these wheels, 15x8: http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/detai...amp;section=ORT My only concern is the offset of -19 and the backspacing of 3.75". Will these stick out past the fender flares with 31's? I want them to be even. Thanks.

Got it

My power antenna was broke by the car wash and I want to replace it with a euro-style short antenna. How do I get access to the power antenna motor in the fender to remove it? Thanks.