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Igetstabby

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Everything posted by Igetstabby

  1. I forgot to update this thread after I figured out the problem, but it turned out to be the brand new (2 week old sealed Moog) end link squeaking like a mofo. It was completely shot, seems like they forgot to grease it. My driver side ball joint was also prettywell toast, but wasn't making any noise.
  2. No sir, it'll just rub a little more without it. I still haven't got the cash together to do my lift, been running the 31"s since January.
  3. Yup! Look at this @!*%. I almost want to write Moog and chew them out for not testing the application. Without going out to get a 90 degree zerk I'd have to slide the axle right out of the hub to grease it.
  4. I got the Moog ball joints because of the lifetime warranty... which I will have to use frequently I'm sure, since the zerk fitting on them is completely useless. There is about 2 mm of clearance to grease them...
  5. Pretty sure you would have to replace the hood as well.
  6. Since you're in BC, I would look into the Goodyear Wrangler Territory from Canadian Tire... Best bang for your buck on a stock R50 imo. They go on sale for like $150 a tire every few weeks. You would need to run on a 16" wheel on an 02 to clear the brake calipers. To make sure the tire clears the strut you may also need either front wheel spacers or a wheel with around 4.0 Backspace... I run a procomp rock crawler 3.75"BS/-19mm offset and it sticks out a bit from the fender flares. I've only got about 6k on mine, but I love them. They're almost an A/T - M/T hybrid. Very similar to the Duratracs, just a lot cheaper. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/1/Tires/LightTruckTires/PRD~0052335P/Goodyear%252BWrangler%252BTerritory.jsp?locale=en&isAutomotivePrd=true&tireSku=0053135&auto_type=tire&icid=AutoSelector_Tires_Size_31X%2F10.50R15+_ViewDetails http://www.procompusa.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=PCW98-5883&catID=11&subCat=209&ptID=100021&plID=100348
  7. Yeah it does if you really put your weight into it, I would have done that already but nobody's really been around to help this weekend and it's raining here today. No garage FTL.
  8. So, ever since replacing my front sway bar end links last week to fix the clunk they were giving me (they were toast and had previously been replaced last summer ) I noticed there was still a bit of a clunk in the front end (drivers side) when going over certain bumps and sometimes just from the downforce of braking/acceleration. Now in the past few days it has progressed to also squeaking from any up/down movement of the front end at all and sometimes when cranking the wheel. I'm thinking my strut is toast, but maybe control arm bushing or rack bushing? Haven't really had a chance to get a buddy to come give me a hand figuring it out. If it's the strut it gives me a reason to start putting my lift together but the timing could definitely be better as far as money is concerned.
  9. Are all of those parts neccesary? I just went to my local dealership and asked for a quote on strut mounts and bearings. They gave me a list of 54057, 54320, 54322, 54325, 54329... Those 5 parts alone came up to $285 plus tax. They didn't say anything about 54034 & 54036 which appear to be spring seats? I can't believe these parts are so expensive...
  10. Or get a $20 obd2 bluetooth interface off ebay and use the app Torque on an android phone. Probably the cheapest scan tool option for those with android... lots of other awesome info with this app too. ( )
  11. I really want to spend obscene amounts of money I don't have on the pathy...

  12. Tirerack agrees, that size is not severe snow rated. 245/70R17 119/116R E Not Rated For Severe Snow (NOTE: While most BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO tires meet the industry's severe snow service requirements (and are branded with the mountain/snowflake symbol), selected tires do not. Specific tires/sizes not meeting the industry's severe snow service requirements are identified with a "Not Rated For Severe Snow" notation on the Sizes & Pricing, as well as on Specs)
  13. Nothing. It rubs the plastic at full lock a tiny bit, nothing a heat gun wont fix...
  14. Closest thing to it would be the GY Wrangler Duratrac.
  15. Manual hubs are in the back of the truck waiting for installation... Been too lazy.
  16. These should work, same spacing and offset as my new rims Mine are 98-5883, Year: 1999 Chilkoot Lift : None, tired coils and dead rear shocks. Wheels : ProComp Xtreme Rock Crawlers (15x8", 3.75" BS, -19mm Offset) Tires : 31x10.5r15 Goodyear Wrangler Territory Notes: Slight rubbing of the plastic at full lock, will be easy to fix.
  17. So I got some new rims and tires yesterday... Rims are pro comp 98 series, 15x8, 3.75" BS Tires are 31x10.5 r15 Goodyear Wrangler Territories (Canadian Tire exclusive) Rubs a bit at full lock without a lift, gonna have a look at what kind of trimming or heat gun work I have to do this weekend.
  18. I had a local shop do it up for me, I just supplied the muffler. Ran just short of 100 bucks more than a stock replacement would have been.
  19. Yep, it sure does. There's a sweet spot when you pull back on the lever (ie flashing people with there high beams on) where the fogs, high beams and normal headlights work all at once. Idunno how you'd rig it up to work with high beams on...
  20. Funny you should say that... I haven't had it at full flex but I've had it under basically full compression. The (now) upper pipe did bottom out on the upper link bracket on the axle first day when I took the video, took it back to the shop to get that problem addressed when they re-opened on the 28th, he bent up a new pipe and it's been good since. My rear suspension is more or less toast, coils are very soft and as you might be able to see from my one shock, they're done too (that's the better one of the two) so I think I'm ok.
  21. Here's a couple pics I snapped real quick after work.
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