radar

What kind of welding set up is best for this sort of thing, starting to get the itch to build my own stuff as well. Not to hi jack this but what is better acetylene or mig tig etc? As far as designs go, I like this one http://www.xplorx4.com/pathfinder/upgrades/ipf

Are you getting an check engine light? Wondering how you know O2 sensor is gone and which one it is.

Ok, got it home, weighs a ton, everything looks really solid, welds are beefy on the mount, not a winch expert but this thing looks like it could pull a tank out of the mud. The only mount that came with it is the quick release 2" receiver type. Rather than mount this permanently, will see what I can get made that will accom the quick release mount. Waiting to hear back from Marcel, at BPA, not sure if he is building bumpers that will fit the need. Going to be impossible to test until I get this figured out. Thks for the link to summit mws, by the time I paid duty and shipped that to Canada, would likely be 600+, at 400.00 Canadian, this looks like a darn good deal, proof will be in the test I suppose. Hey, I'm a regular now, cool

Thks for the feedback folks, I am going to buy one tonight, since I am not a frequent off roader, will use this less frequently than most. Sounds like it should suit my needs. Since this winch has a quick release mount for a 2" receiver, it can be easily attached to my rear hitch, I would like to go this way in the front as well, has anyone heard of a front receiver for a 99 pathfinder?

The thing I am trying to maintain is the clean air the stock filter gives, I have done some reading on the aftermarket filters and have concerns. Agreed they allow more air to flow but they are allowing more dirt to flow with it, the stock filter does a very good job on filtration, just a bit too restrictive. Good point on another airbox, doesn't have to be a nissan one, as long as I can tee them together, I am sure I could find one pretty cheap at the wreckers.

True the opening is 7 Sq in, what I am hoping to achieve is a larger filter surface, by doubling the size of the air box I double the air filter surface, I think this is the area that is most restricting airflow.

I had a thought on increasing airflow without sacrificing air quality, if I could get another stock airbox and tee it into the the exisiting one before the MAF sensor, this should provide twice the air as I am getting now. May be tight to fit it in but likely possible, thoughts? radar

I was in Costco tonight and saw a 9500 lb capacity champion winch, comes with quick release receiver mount, roller fairlead, 100ft cable, mounting plate, all for $400.00. Has anyone used these, seems like a pretty good deal, as well, does a 2" receiver/hitch exist that can be mounted on the front of a 99 path finder? radar

Use 6mm metric bolts, the threads are likely full of rust so they will go in tight, these things don't do well when pried on.

Since the fan belt is also turning the waterpump it is probably the most important one, the biggest pain on my 99 is that it is the rearmost of the three belts and the tensioner is a PITA to turn.

It is probably a good trail setup, as was suggested, why not put a disconnect coupling in so you install it off road and leave it off otherwise. Do you have any pics off the setup under the hood, I would be interested in seeing how that all connects.

Thats the spot, I just scratched mine with a screwdriver, another thing you may want to do while you have her apart is clean out the rad by flushing it with water and clean between the rad fins outside as well, mine was loaded with bugs and dirt outside.

May be an accessory belt, they can get noisey at higher rpms, more so when they are loose, check the tension, if they are good, give them a spray with wd40 and see if it goes away.

Going to try and answer the questions for you here First is How can I tell if the rotor is facing plug wire on cyklinder #1? Follow plug wire one back to the cap from the spark plug on cyl #1, mark the distributor housing and remove the cap, when the elongated end of the rotor with the electrode is facing this mark, you are on compression stroke cyl 1 When you mention the tension on the belt that I should be able to move it 90deg between pulleys,are you saying that if I hold both the pulleys on top that I can move it left to right? When the belt is installed under tension, you should just be able to twist it by hand about 90 degs in the center between the cam pulleys, if you can twist beyond that, it is too loose, less and may be too tight. Feel the old belt first it should give you an idea of how tight it is, as well, loosen the belt tensioner and remove tension before removing the tensioner, take note of the position of the tensioner before you move it. The olkd belt is likely looser than it should be as it has been in use for a while and stretched. On lining up the cam pulleys and crank pulley after determining that Im on TDC, Does it matter where I put that mark or punch in front of the engine as long as its kinda in the center and visible? As long as it lines up with the mark on the crank pulley and you can relocate the crank to that position it is fine, pretty much as in the pics you have posted. After putting that mark in front of the engine Im assuming that Im going to put a mark on the cam pulley and crank pulley lined up with the marks I made in front of the engine? The cam and crank puilley positions are the reference you use to get a mark on the engine, these pulleys are already marked, you will see them when you get the covers off, the crank mark should be about where you see it in the photo, there are marks on the rear cover plates behind and above the cam pulleys already. After I put those mark I can then mark the old timing belt with a line across? Mark the old timing belt exactly where the pulley marks are on the pulleys, the cams will be easy to mark as you are on top of the belt, the crank will be harder, be sure you get enough on the belt so as to be able to find it when removed, to be sure, count the belt teeth a few times between the drivers side cam mark and the crank mark. On the crank pulley, Since you mentioned that the mark is big enough on the engine I still need to make a mark on the sprocket that lines up on the big punch mark right? The pulley mark on the pulley is big enough, you most likely don't have a mark o the engine, if you do, someone has done this job previously. Pulling the sprocket on that crankshat,I was thinking of prying it with a couple of panel puller(pic below) slowly inserting it on both sides just on the very edge of that sprocket making sure that its not going to hit the shaft and knicking it and work it side to side till the sprocket is off of that shaft?[/b] Will probably work, mine was loose, the pulley in front of this one is the bugger, I can't advise more on this as I did not replace my seals when I did my belt, others can offer more advice if needed here. Just be careful around here, all aluminum and other brittle metals especially on the crank pulley that drives the accessory belts. Hope this helps, John.

Is the floor wet? Have a garage do a pressure test on the system, it should help identify the leak fairly easily. If it was head gasket, you would be smelling it out the exhaust and your exhaust would be sending huge plumes of white smoke out.

As far as turning the engine by hand, put the crank bolt back in and use a socket and ratchet. Turn the crank by hand until the cam timing marks line up and the rotor is facing plug wire on cylinder #1. Find TDC by inserting something long enough into the plug hole on cyl one that you can see moving up and down as you very slowly move the crank back and forth slightly, I used a jumbo tiewrap. Move the crank back and forth until you are sure she is at tdc. Once you have it, put a punch mark on the front of the engine as shown,the one on the crank gear is big enough already. As for the old belt, get a white tire marker and mark the belt at the timing mark points on each cam and the crank pulley. Use this to check the number of teeth between the cam and crank sprockets, it should be identical to the number of teeth between the marks on the new belt. If it is, your timing is factory and you simply reisntall the new belt with the marks in line with the pulleys. As far as torqing the bolts, either do this with the old belt or with a belt type wrench over the pulley, try to keep the pulleys in position, line them back up if they do move slightly, as long as all the marks line up on the new belt all will be fine. The tensioner comes off easily, one bolt, take note of the tension of the old belt and the tensioner position before you move it, belt tension is probably one of the things that you could mess up if not careful, by feel you should be able to turn the belt 90 degrees between the cam pulleys by hand. Too tight and it will whine, too loose and it will slip, bad scene. I didn't change my stud, it was like new, it you need to change it, either lock two bolts onto it and use a box end wrench or clamp a vise grip onto it. As far as the crank seal, you won't need to replace the back plate if you use a puller, if you do have to pry on the gear, be very careful. You may want to invest in a seal puller, what ever you do, don't knick the shafts or the seals will leak. Lastly, get a complete set of hose clamps if yours are factory, they will all break on you.

99 maxima 200k, no issues with injectors, replaced one of the coil packs, 99 path, just purchased with 170k, so far so good on the injectors. The coil pack on the max created a hella misfire situation. All of your injectors going bad at once sounds like bad fuel. I heard shell screwed alot of injectors up a few years ago with a bad mix of some ingredient in their winter fuel. They were covering repairs but only if you went after them for it, they didn't make it public as far as I know.

I would not recommened the method he states for the crank pully; 2. Loosen the crank pulley bolt (1 x 27 mm). Make sure to use a real penetrating lubricant beforehand (WD40).An air wrench makes this much easier. Pry the crank sprocket off the crank, it will be very tight, you will probably have to destroy the thin metal guide plate behind the sprocket, but you will replace it with the new one you special ordered from Nissan. Replace the seal, and install the new metal plate, the NEW sprocket key, and the sprocket with anti-sieze compound on the inside of it. Do not, under any circumstances, hammer a prying device behind the sprocket or you may break the oil pump housing, which is bad. Instead, get a harmonic balancer puller and two 6mm metric bolts, will come right off and won't damage the oil pump or the pully. Also, pull the crank bolt with an air gun, much easier, remove plugs to release compression when turningn the engine over, might as well change them while your in there. The water pump can be changed it you have any doubts, do it before the new belt goes on. Using a carboard box to insert the bolts into is a go idea for keeping the correct sizes together. I did my thermostat and outlet hose at the same time, don't wan't coolant leaking onto the timing belt down the road. The only real pita I came across was loosening the alternator tension, the bolt is in a real tight spot next to the frame on my 99. Take your time and good luck.

You could probably punch the cat out yourself, better for the environment if you replace it.

If your worried about getting the electrics wet you could spray the wires with silicone first. I washed mine down when I did the timing belt, started no prob after, try not to fill the spark plug holes with water, may take a while to dry out.

The majority of braking occurs in the front so the back are likely fine, easy to check, wouldn't hurt to knock the dust and rust off the drums. Have to ask, how much to turn the rotors, I bought new here for $40.00 CAD, hardly seemed worth the bother of turning.

I just installed warn hubs on my 99, the truck definitely coasts further and is quieter, no noise coming from the xfer case, not that it was horribly loud but I could hear it through the console. The savings in wear on the driveline alone will pay for these hubs.

Ok, so the new hubs are on, man do those wheels ever spin easy now, this is how the vehicle should have been from the factory! Repacked my wheel bearings and replaced the rotors, pads and bearing seals. I couldn't believe the condition of the rotors and pads, the rotor innner surfaces were almost completely covered in a thick layer of rust with only a thin groove that was clean and acting as a braking surface, the difference in the braking action of this vehicle is incredible. I have a call in to the ministry of transport over this, when I purchased the vehicle a month ago from the Ford dealer here in Kingston, it came with a safety check. In my opinion, these brakes were not safe, the dealer has refused to look at the vehicle let alone warranty it. If you live in Kingston, be very careful buying from Ford, they don't seem to care about the safety of the vehicles they are putting out the door.

I did my wiper arms already, have a fair amount of bubbling under the trim so a bit concerned what I will find when I peel the plastic off.

Would soaking it is carb cleaner help at all?