jj big shoe

Nah, no before pics. I didn't want to post one until I got her looking a little more worthy. Rocker panel rust holes, rusty spare tire carrier, saggy stock suspension, clearcoat peeling off the rims, bald tires, scraped / dented bumpers, ... I'll post an after pic in my profile sometime soon though because I've repaired / replaced everything but the tires and rims, which I'm getting put on in about three hours. Merry Christmas to me! **big cheesy grin**

The rear window spoiler is more for diverting air across the rear glass to help shed rain water while you drive, not for NASCAR-type aerodynamics. A spoiler on a Pathy would be about as useful as the silly looking one's people slap on the trunk of their civics. Neither goes fast enough to really have one come into play.

I was installing my Superlift A-arms this weekend and like everyone has said, removing the bushings was probably the hardest part of the project. I started to burn them out with an acetylene torch and scrape at them with a screwdriver as suggested by some folks, but that seemed like it would take forever. What I did was use a drill bit roughly the same diameter as the bushing wall and drilled several holes through the bushings between the UCA and bushing sleeve. That relieved the pressure and gave room for the bushing to collapse into itself. Then I spun the spindle nut halfway onto the threads to protect them and whacked the end of the spindle. Two good hits and it popped right out. I cleaned the rest of the old bushings off with a razor knife, torch and wire wheel. There's probably less chance of deforming something by doing it this way rather than holding a torch on it for a long time, too. I got the whole truck lifted in about five hours.

I think they just re-labeled it and are marketing it as a spray-on hair care fix for bald spots.

Use a razor blade to clean everything off the glass. Any little piece of dirt will cause an air pocket that might get bigger over time. Also use a good quality tint. A lot of the lesser ones come out kinda purple instead of smoked. Take your time and it will look schweet.

This is what I did... JCG console in an '87

...naughty girl...

Sounds like you know what you're doing. I don't plan on doing a body lift, but when I put a 3" one on my old YJ, the shifters were too low. I ended up using a couple rod couplings and some all-thread to raise 'em back up to a useable height. Once the PHRM project is complete, maybe the current and future body lift fellers could benefit from transfer case/trans. shifter extension kits designed to thread on the existing shifters for 2" and 3" lifts.

Smith, I had the same problem until I took the column switch out and fixed it. Inside the switch there are thin metal reed-like tabs that either get dirty or bent a little with use and don't make a solid connection. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the reason you get both low beam and only one high is because they are independent of one another (your low beams turn off when you turn on the high beams). I've seen this topic on this board a lot and it's usually a problem at the switch.

Check the heat shiels on your exhaust to see if they are loose or close to rubbing on something. Sometimes they won't rub in neutral, but when torque is applied as you accelerate your engine twists a little on the motor mounts and they can knock around and rattle.

Start pumpin' them out, man. I'll need one before the new year as well.

Is that an estimate for shipping each shirt to each person or is it for shipping the entire order to one location? Either way I like the idea of increasing the cost and giving Mr. Jim the overage. The info and sense of community we all benefit from as a result of what he created is invaluable, so why not thank him in this small way? I say sell all the sizes for $15 each plus shipping (if needed). When it comes down to it, we've all saved time and money repairing and/or building up our rigs thanks to the NPORA board so let's show our appreciation to the founder.

Dude, you're kidding me. That does sound crazy, but I've got to give it a shot. I'm almost afraid to because if it works, I'll be trying to figure out why for weeks!

Headers will improve your engine's performance and you'll get better gas mileage. I have Thorley headers on my '87 v6 and I can tell a big difference over the restrictive stock exhaust manifolds. if I remember correctly, Thorley claims they give you an extra 15% horsepower, which ends up being around 20 more ponies on my truck.

Mine's doing the same thing. I have a squeak that seems to be coming from the passenger side dash or A-pillar. I haven't gotten around to hunting it down, though. If I find out what it is, I'll be sure to post it in the "Pathfinder Common Problems/Fixes" forum. Looks like it's bugging a few of us.

Those are sweet looking, but my buddy's '02 is already having squeaks, rattles and rear brake issues and he doesn't go off road. Kinda concerning considering it's a $20,000+ truck.

I'd start by pulling fuses under the dash until you find the drain, then check that circuit's wiring. My buddy's '95 Pathy had electrical troubles w/ the stock fog lights and aftermarket trailer wiring grounding out but those popped fuses. Another friend's Camaro had a pinched power lead after a stereo install that drained his battery but never popped a fuse. Maybe one day they will make tianium wiring with kevlar insulation. Good luck.

Is it condensation on all your windows? If so, you could be getting moisture from anywhere. If the back carpet is wet, check under the seats for rust holes. Another common place to check for body pan rust is under the gas pedal. There's an exhaust flange under there that tends to make it rot.

Prolly just "satellite ready". A lot of stereo recievers have that feature, meaning that it can control a satellite reciever. Instead of having to buy a controller separately for satellite radio, your stereo reciever will display info and change the stations and such just like regular radio. Look on your roof for a satellite antenna. It looks like one of those Olympic-style bicyclist helmets. If you don't see one, unfortunately, you probably don't have the satellite equipment installed. You also need to subscribe to satellite radio, about $10/month. (I bet you haven't seen the word "satellite" writen down so many times outside NASA or a Dave Matthews CD.)

I was originally going to use the bed rail caps fix but the repair wouldn't be completely covered, so I'm going to use spray on bedliner. Mine's blue and I saw another blue Pathy with it and it looked pretty good.

Sorry, I should have said 3" rust holes. Looks like there's a seam where a couple panels meet behind the wheel well where standing water and salt collected and rusted a hole through.

I'm finally getting around to fixing the rust on my rocker. It's rusted through on the passenger side just before the rear wheel. As I was going through the local junkyards I noticed all five Pathys I saw had the same rust holes as I did. ( I wanted to cut a piece from a junker for a direct weld-in piece instead of having to form one like I did.) The culprit? A three inch hole inside the rear wheel wells. I'm not sure if it's been discussed here before but apparently it's a common problem. The passenger side of mine has the rocker rust but both wheel wells have the holes. I have access to a welder so I'm fixing everything this weekend before the driver's side rots out as well.

The Thorleys bolt up to the stock flange right before the catalytic converter. I also replaced the entire exhaust with a 2.25" high flow cat and Flowmaster 50 series muffler. The piping from the stock flange to the cat is 2.25" dia., so I just cut it to length and welded the new cat to it. I used adapters and clamps back to the muffler and a reducer to fit a new stock size (2") tail pipe. One day I'll fab up a new 2.25" tailpipe and maybe weld everything in. If you're going to do the work yourself, be sure to wear eye protection when you're under the truck messing around with rusty exhaust. We've all had crap fall into our eyes at one time or another, but a friend of mine got a little sliver of metal actually stuck in the white part of his eye. After a few days the metal in his eyeball started to rust and he ended up going to the hospital to get the affected part of his eye scooped out. He healed up and made a full recovery, but just thinking about it makes my spine itch.

I have a set of chrome Thorleys on my '87 V6 5-sp. They look good, sound great and let the exhaust flow out like a fat man on chili night. I had a shop install them, so I couldn't expand on the dificulty. I think they are CARB legal, though. Since there's not as high a demand on them as say, for a Chevy 350, Thorley doesn't make a lot of 'em at a time, so call Thorley directly for availability. Some folks have waited two or three months for theirs. Thorley says they are for manual trans only, but a few discussions here have said that a competent shop could adapt them for use in an auto without much work. Thorley headers - Nissan Also, you don't need to buy manifolds as well as headers. Headers bolt directly to the engine block and actually replace the existing restrictive manifolds allowing the exhaust gasses to flow better giving you more power and torque. They are pricey, but you get what you pay for.

I put Thorleys on my '87 5-sp. They really wake the motor up. I highly recommend headers.