jj big shoe

Check this out. Pimped spare tire carrier thread. He did a really nice job.

This is an electric linear acuator. They also make pneumatic ones. The one I'm looking at is rated for 500lbs. Even at half power It'll do what I need it to do. I'm still kicking the whole idea around anyway so I'm not sure if I'll be using one or not yet.

I was worried about someone swiping my spare off the carrier, especially after I put a 32" BFG A/T and spankin' new rim on it. Trouble was, I couldn't find any lug locks that would fit the spare wheel studs. For some reason they're smaller than the ones the wheels mount on, plus they don't sell locking lug nuts in a five-pack anyway. Luckily, mine has a post with a hole through it that you can put a master lock on. If yours doesn't have the post maybe you could drill a hole that lines up with one of the lug holes on the rim, run a 3" long bolt through it and spin a nut down tight. Then grind a bit of a flat spot on the excess threads and drill a hole through the bolt for a lock.

Since we have so many engineers and generally bright members, I figure someone could tell me what happens when you apply 12v DC to a 24v DC motor. Does it just run slower or is there going to be damage the motor or the supply circuit? I'm considering a linear actuator to raise the rear window and I might be able to get a 24v one cheap. Thanks in advance.

Hmm... I wonder what gas prices are like at Maxwell AFB in Alabama? Just kidding, man. 25 mi. south of D.C., regular is about $2.18 - $2.35. I guess I'll hold off on that 502 V8 conversion for a while...

Yeah, it treats the rusted area and prevents it from spreading. You'll still need to weld, fiberglass or otherwise fill the holes.

So does that mean June 6th is for these?

That's exactly what I did with an aluminum sheet (easier to cut and mold). I have access to a welder now and I really should weld sheet metal in. That will be #762 on the "To Do" list.

There's a thread in the garage section about how to get the codes from your CPU. Check it out before you spend $$ on a code reader.

The fat guy is friggin' hilarious! Thanks Slick, you've made my day!

When I repaired the rust holes in my rockers I knew there was no way I was going to color match the paint after the repair job, so I taped off a clean line the length of the truck and shot it with spray on bedliner in a can. I didn't prep one side behind the driver's wheel too well so its chipping from the high pressure car wash jets, but the rest is holding tight and looks good. The key to a good paint job is in the prep. Take your time and you'll get the results you want. If not, you'll end up having to doing it over again like me.

Nah. If I was going to go through the trouble of stripping it down then spraying it with bedliner, I'd rather put that effort into an idea I've got for a through-the-bumber light bar.

Body lifts have no bearing on suspension so no, you don't need new shocks or springs to install it. BTW, the answers to your questions have been covered many times before. Check out the "search" feature and you'll probably find what you need faster than waiting for a response from someone who knows.

Yeah, powdercoat is great stuff. The rims of my old Honda CBR900RR were black powdercoat. At one time I was thinking about getting a kit from Eastwood Tools and an old oven and trying my hand at a few pieces. It's tough as nails and usually looks better than paint. If you've got the hook up, definately go with that. Man, I wish I had your connections. BTW, I thought most major appliances are baked enamel, though I could be wrong...

ebay grill guard If it were black I'da bought it.

Umm... those don't look right to me. The correct springs aren't progressive rate (i.e. all the coils are an equal distance apart, not stacked together on one end then spread out on the other). Are you sure they are stock front springs for a V8 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Here's a link to a thread with a pic and a description.

For less than the cost, not to mention the trouble, of stripping the chrome off and getting them powder coated you could buy a set of new black steel rockcrawler rims @ about $40 ea. As far as painting over the chrome, I think you would have a hard time getting the paint to stick even after you roughed them up. It would prolly chip off real easy. Check Summit Racing. They have good prices on a pretty large selection of rims.

I'm looking for a decent brand of 6" light. I'm not planning on entering the Dakkar rally, so I don't really need the durability or expense of Lightforce, Warn or Piaa (especially since 88 seems to have gobled up every low cost Piaa in this hemisphere). I'm looking more along the lines of KC or Hella. Does anyone have experience with Pro Comp? Seems they only make spots and not floods, though. Anyway, chime in if you've got 1st or 2nd hand knowledge of any relatively inexpensive lighting brands that you might want to recommend. Thanks. Oh, and Precise 1, maybe you could FLOOD me with information and enLIGHTen me about a brand you've SPOTted on the trail that may suit my needs.

Although it's been discussed, I don't think anyone here has completed a turbo mod. I'm all for it, but be prepared to fab up a whole lot of one-off pieces. If you do decide to jump into the project be sure to post your progress. Good luck.

Most likely your key is worn down a little as well as the tumblers in your locks. Try getting another key made. BTW, do you have power locks? A lot of alarm and stereo places will install a basic alarm with a keyless entry feature for about $100. Keep that in mind if you end up needing to replace door locks or something else that might get pricey.

I shouldn't have said 17" chrome rims, what I meant was these. 17X9 6-5.5" Bolt Pattern 5" Back Spacing. I'm not 100% on the fitment, but I'm sure somebody could figure it out. Just imagine these hoops wraped with 17" BFG mud terrains. Schweet. $158 ea. at 4wheelparts.com.

It could be mud caked in the inside of the rim throwing off the balance, or maybe you ripped a weight off the rim.

LOL Everyone and their dog wants those Z31 clutch type LSD's. Very hard to come by, and those that have them want at least $500. Yeah, I was hoping you might have had one lying around and felt generous. Oh, well, I'll just keep skulking around on ebay...thanks anyhow.

I'm not sure what that stuff is made from, but there's another one called Fatmat that's a less expensive that Dynamat. You could do the passenger area with a few of their trunk kits. Each kit has 22.5 sq. ft. and costs under $40 as compared to Dynamat's 13.5 sq. ft for $130.

If I hit the lottery, mine would be a Lamborghini LM002. ...Packing a truly insane 450 horsepower 5.2 liter V12 engine derived from the awesome Countach, the four wheel drive, 6,800 pound LM002 was an incredible performer. It could tackle gradients of 120%, was capable of shifting from a standstill to 60 mph in 7.7 seconds and rushed to a top speed of 130 mph. All this performance had its cost though -- the engine returned a wallet-busting (and ozone-depleting) seven miles per gallon (gulp!). The thing that's really interesting is that back in the early 80's, SUV's were seen as true utility vehicles and lacked the refinement and sophistication of today's trucks. The LM002 featured a passenger area composed of leather and wood inlays, and packed power steering, power windows and air conditioning as standard options, making it light years ahead of the competition. More info...