513yj

i brought home about the same thing and had the same running status runs funny lacks power and all that. i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and still nothing. the problem was it was out of time and with a simple 10 mm bolt on the dizzy, turn it while running and see what happens, mine looked unfooled around with but it runs great now.

that little thing my 258 oilpan was pushed up twice as far and didn't make any noise but it leaked like a seive on the bolt surface area.

well i put in 80-90 and i have an lsd in the back but i haven't added the stuff to make it slip easier yet. but i only drove it to the side of my shop.

anyone know what goes in the x-fer case on an 88 path 3.0 auto. i drained out 80-90 and wasnt sure if that was right.

what year is it? i have an 88 and you pull up on the drivers door lock twice and it releases.

kid down the road has 33 growlers on his big a$$ed loud a$$ed chebby, they growl on the road a little, but they still looka lika theya be holding up to kid abuse(brake torques, squeal tires around every corner or else, 75 mph in a 45 etc. etc.)

mr. tire and pomps tires here do it and we are in the piddly population area in the u.p. normally a local tire shop should have a machine that does it i think. try yellow pages uneder tires and call the best looking ones like pomps tire or mr tire, not bobs tires or or hillbilly tire service or scottys tire and muffler.

the best way to weld a diff will shock you. all you need is a bunch of lead wheel weights an a torch. this won't work with open cage carriers but with that hb233 pic it will. you have to remove the carrier and clean it out with brake cleaner. then put the axle shafts in or you will hate the world when they wont go later. next rotate the carrier till a hole is at the top. then grab some weights with a pair of pliers by the metal holder and melt them in as many as you can fit. you need to hold the torch close to the hole and make sure the lead flows in good. keep rotating to the next hole and the next and so on till it is chuck full of lead. this will prevent the spiders from spinning and thus creating a full locker, but the bonus is lead is softer than steel so if a piece breaks off and gets into the ring and pinion it wont hurt it as weld chunks will. i did this to my 14 bolt 8 years ago and it still works great. i've done it to a lot of other peoples and they all work great. i never had any big parts fall loose but i think if it ever did you could heat it up and refill it to make it locked again. oh yeah don't breathe in the fumes, i haven't but i could just imagine

nothing wrong with procomps, ran 33x12.50 on a stock comanche for 2 years in solid rocks and they are great, suck in snow and noy the best in mud though. to clarify the swamper part, tsl and tsl radials might wear a little fast but tsl-ssr's don't they are 3 totally different tires with 2 totally different purposes, and as i said a bro runs them on his yj and the majority 65-75 percent of the time it is on road on the highway at 65 mph and he's had them 3 years now. i had a set of tsl radials for 1 year on my 2500 chevy and they wore fast, pretty sure tsl bias ply will too. my yj is 95 percent rocks and has 36-13.5 iroks for the past year and i havent driven more than 500 miles on the road and they look like new yet minus rock rash. but for 75 percent on road can't touch mtr's for all conditions rain, snow, ice, mud, rocks as i ran them on my old rig and that was a 50-50 on and off road deal and i will give them an A+. just my nickel.

no they will not my buds yj has the ssr's as i think those are by the pic, and they are like stones. they don't wear very fast and suck the left one off road as well. normal tsl's and tsl radials are good off road but wear faster on road. a good alternative if ya got deep pockets are pro comp mt's, good both ways and also my personal favorite wrangler mtr's. i had a couple sets of bfg's and they aren't nearly as good as the couple sets of mtr's i had. the mtr's don't really wear out much faster either and would be my recommended tire for both usages.

usually not idling means 2 things, not enough fuel pressure or vacuum leak city. first thing i'd do is fuel pressure test, then compression test it so you get a better idea if the timing belt is off or not. it won't be the same compression if it is, although i have seen it where the cam lobes were torn off too and it had compression cause the valves weren't opening. you still could have compression if it's only one tooth off, but usually it will not be proper. if all this works fine then get a rubber hose and start listening around all the hoses and gasket mounting surfaces for air leaks, it will be a hissing sound.

jb weld only sticks to your pants

first thing i would do is pull off the tire, take of the caliper and spin the wheel of fortune. then you should be able to tell if there is noise or not. if it don't sound right then wiggle the rotor up and down, left and right to check for play. if there is play then something is botched in the bearings. wtf is that greenstuff? and where did ya put it, on the pad backing plate or friction surface? i've put on 300,000 pads and rotors and never used such a thing, but i have seen yellow and blue junk for making them quiet that is used on the backing. as far as the torquing of the nut, i've never done my path yet but i've done everything else under the sun from quads to forwarders and i've never torqued anything, but this really isn't proper. i've never had any problems with hammer and screwdriver and gentle strong spin so it turns one revolution and viola, yar done. like i said this is not proper but i havent had any problems. my bet without more info or without hearing it is that you have braking issues, maybe greenstuff is on friction surface and is the noise reducer for the backing so its the culprit?

pro comp 3000?

possibly brakes yes, but if you gently put on the brakes when you are going slow and the noise stops, then it's probably a u-joint on the back driveshaft, as u-joints make more of a chirping and brakes more of a squealing. jack up th back end and check driveshaft for play.

also with this put a piece of vaccum line on the bleeder if it will allow, then into a clear bottle with the line submerged in fluid. this is how i normally do it, and it saves on messy cleanup later. also if you can remove the slave from trans(as i'm not too familiar yet) you can hold the slave so the clutch rod faces downwards and slowly push the rod in around an inch or so while a buddy watches the reservoir for bubbles. when no bubbles come out you are bled and there is no chance for F up of air gettin in if you have to do this on the ground. i forget sometimes about my hoist and pit luxury.

por 15 is the sheet. all you do is check for holes and weak spots as 88pathoffroad said, and if there isn't any and you don't need to repair then nock off the chunks or rust a little wire brush and slam on the por. you dont want it clean all the way as it works by chemically bonding to rust so some surface rust helps just not big chunks. if you have to or have already ground or wire wheeled off so you have bare metal, then por sells some stuff called metal ready cause it don't stick well to bare clean metal. be careful with the metal ready as it works fast and will cause a white film if left on too long. here it the up of michigan we get the salt treatment hardcore in the winter and i use por religously around here. oh yeah rubber gloves are nice, still got por on my hands from derusting my path from 2 weeks ago. hope this will help.

oops i fo-got to say it was da stock sunroof in my 88 and she's in about 300,000 little pieces. i can't find one around here and the glass places won't even touch it, but there's a 91 factory sunroof i can get so i wonder if factory sunroofs are the same for 88 and 91.

anyone know if a 91 path sunroof will fit in an 88? :o

12 GA.

no i cleaned and put back in but the po must have monkeyd with the timing cause that is what i thought, and i loosend the dis and gave it a crank and whoa momma does she run now. -bounce- with 210,000 miles that sucka roasts the tires (best teenage impression ) i don't know how much longer it'll last but now that i got out my pent up aggression i'm changing rims and tires (and it's 95 degrees out with 100% humidity) cleaning the floor off and patch the holes spray bomb and run er.

well it started out as no spark, and i got the old sucker going with the power transistor. so i changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter, air filter. the next step is to change oil and filter. so whats happening is it fires right up and idles perfect, but it revs up slower than a snail till about 4 grand an then its pretty snappy to about 6500. sometimes when you give it the beans it will pop. i havn't checked the exhaust for squirrel homes yet, and it acts like a dead coil on a gm with a v-6 and 3 coil packs. i am not sure about these nissan things yet but i have been turning wrenches for over 15 years but only on american cars and jeeps. any pointers where to look since all i've done would have corrected the problem on a chevy but this is not one and has me wondering where to start. gonna scan the codes and check for plugged exhaust, clean maf sensor. anywhere else i should look?

i slinnged on a new p.t. ign mod as it is in parts store land and the thing fired right up slow revving right now but the brakes are rusty and need cleaning and the gas is 2 or 3 yrs old so i dumped in 2 gals to dilute since the light was on and it was pretty empty. the dist cap was only held on by one screw and the prongs were bent so i straightened them and it ran so a healthy tune up i think were cookin with charcoal (gas sucks). but thanks again for the info and it was very helpful and right on, so with my m-m alls it took was 10 minutes testing and labor now its golden.

went fishing over the weekend and mon, shop owners benefits so i didn't get this till now. when yar talking about the continuity test with power on or off? i know you can't test it with power on so i am assuming off? or were you saying to test the plug going into the p.t. with it unplugged for power and test the p.t. unplugged? i got cont with it unplugged on #4 when i'm not supposed to i think. i ordered a new one from carquest and it should be here today and i'll test the two and compare, but i'll let ya know how it all works out. thanks for all the help so far and ya probably will hear more from me as it is around 200,000 miles and unless gas goes down to 1.50 a gal i'm gonna drive it till the wheels fall off if i can get it running.