NC95Pathfinder

Thanks B. The bushing cups were in good shape and no damage to the holes either.

The new bushings are from Auto Zone since I work there. The bushings are compressed and everything is tight. was just hoping that they would be compressed enough to stay that way in the long run. It seemed to drive ok on yesterday's test drive and the ride to and from work today. The pull to the left is now less pronounced and it doesn't wander as much on uneven road surfaces like it did. The pic I posted was from the passenger side, it didn't look that bad, but the driver side one was worn through the sleeve and the rear half of the bushing came out in two pieces so it was definitely in need of replacement.

I am in the process of doing mine now, while tightening up the nut on the end of the rod I noticed it was bottoming out before it went as far down the rod as the other side. I compared the new parts to the old and found the new spacers are about 3/8 of an inch longer than the old ones. The new bushings are quite a bit thicker than the old ones as well. Not sure if the difference in bushing thickness is just due to age or if they might be made thicker than the originals as well. I have one side done and wanted to get some input before I do the other side in case I needed to pull it back apart. What do you think?

When I was having problems with my cruise control I tried taking it all apart and cleaning it, even tried to stretching the contact springs a little, that didn't work. What finally worked for me was cutting sections of vacuum hose about 1/8" long and putting them on the screws behind the ring plate, basically pushing the plate up toward the contacts. Haven't had any problems with it since.

I get a similar noise in mine, I believe it has something to do with air pressure in the fuel tank. When that happens I can open the fuel cap, hear the pressure escape and the noise stops.

If you're getting a code for the O2 sensor you should replace it. Mine went bad and it made a big difference in mileage. Another thing I found on mine was the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator had come loose, making the regulator act as if it were at full throttle all the time. I'm still only getting about 15 mpg, but that's mostly city driving, better than the 10 mpg I was getting.

I work at autozone and it is a normally stocked part for us. Part number 231134. You might want to check with their web site to verify that it's the right part.

Here's the latest on the electric fan. I've finally got around to actually finishing mounting the electric fan inside the Pathfinder fan shroud. Lack of funds and the fact that the pathfinder is still in the transmission shop (they can't figure out why it will only go into reverse intermittently) has kept me from getting much done.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14826 Could this be the problem? OK, it works now.

I used 3" lift JGC springs on mine which gave me 4-5" of lift in the back. I did have to drop the parking brake cable brackets and the ABS sensor wire about 1 1/2" and I still need to put in a panhard rod drop bracket. It does sit higher in the back now, but it should settle down a bit as time goes by. I've had them on there for a couple months and they have settled about 1/2". They are procomp springs, part number 57001.

This is the one I have on mine. Curt Class III receiver

Here's a couple of pages from the '95 FSM, hope it helps.

Once completely trimmed the taurus shroud will set at least 1/4" back from the radiator. I put the shroud back on for now with the regular fan, it's going to take almost two weeks for the fan controller to get here from Summit and I want to take it on a test run this weekend. The springs still need to be cut the same way. The guy at 4wheel Parts had never heard of anyone doing that before so I took it back to the store to show him after they were on. He was surprised how well the springs fit.

I bought them new from 4 wheel parts here in town, they were a bit pricey at $160, but worth it if they work out. The ride isn't as bad as I thought it would be, a little stiffer but still comfortable. I believe they are part of this kit. http://www.4wheelparts.com/PDT1645.aspx

Continuation of the weekend into Monday... I've had my JY JGC springs on for about a year now and they have sagged about 1 1/2 - 2" (I used to be able to walk under the rear hatch when it was open, now I hit my head) so I went out and bought some 3" lift JGC springs. It sits a little high but if these springs sag too they should be about right.

Here's an update on the UCAs. I'm sure many have noticed that the sleeves that come with the new RC UCAs are a little long. Well to try and make a long story short I found that the UCAs were sliding back and forth on the bushing (started getting clunking noises when braking in forward and reverse) As a fix I went to Ace Hardware and purchased 4 flat washers with an inside diameter of 7/8" to fit on the outside of the sleeve. Since the new washer fits outside the sleeve it does not affect the tightening of the spindle nut, it just pushes the bushing into the UCA where it belongs. And centers the UCA on the spindle. (sorry about the crappy pics, the only camera I have right now is my PDA.)

I put in my UCAs and upper ball-joints yesterday and since I had some extra time on my hands I also put in my dual exploder tranny coolers. With a little more time to kill, I did a little experimenting with the 3.8 Taurus fan I picked up at the JY. With a little trimming I've found the Taurus fan will fit inside the existing Pathfinder shroud. Might be something someone else might want to try. I still have a little trimming to do and maybe fill in the gaps with some expanding foam. But it didn't turn out too bad. ps. I did have to relocate the overflow tube because one of the screws comes through in that area.

Is it possible that a cylinder filled with fuel and hydro-locked resulting in a damaged rod or piston?

I called Rough Country again this morning and talked to someone different. The UCAs are now on the way for $164.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for them? I called today to order some and they told me $255. That's a lot more than what others have been paying.

got it.

Check your transmission wiring harness where it goes down by the trans dipstick tube. Mine came loose and fell on the exhaust manifold and caused the same problem.

That almost sounds like a t-case or diff that's low on oil, my t-case made a similar noise before it went out. Make sure you check the oil level in the diffs, t-case and tranny.

I have the EGR function code too with the accompanying check engine light. I've traced the problem to the EGR temp sensor, but since the light has come on I've been getting better mileage. (12-14mpg to 16-18mpg) So I think I'm going to leave it alone until the next time the inspection comes up.