5523Pathfinder

Yep, I went and looked at his member page, but the pictures he posted are gone(Photobucket-Deleted or Moved). He did have a description though. I may tinker with this idea.

All right! Me likey!

Thanks all for posting the pics. Pezzy, I will try and turn the can holder and try and figure a way to mount it(I will take some pics tonight and post em). I like both ways actually. Bonez, how is the jack attached to the carrier itself? (I may find out at the Jim run?)

Your a lot of help B. A lot of help.... Go back to the Poho!

Yeah, pics would be helpful. I placed the holder up to the carrier, but, with a 33 sitting back there, it blocks the right taillamp. Does anyone reading this thread remember someone who fitted the jack under the back seats? Thanks for replying guys!

Well, as far as the tire goes, I imagine the sidewall might be damaged internally. Does the balance that you use have a road force attachment? You might want to try rotating the wheel to the front an see if the wobble follows.

Ok, so its been on my mind for a while. I need to mount both soon and I need ideas. I was wondering how everyone else did it. Please let me know how you did yours, and post a pic if you could. Options are good! Thanks guys!

There was a TSB done years ago to correct some issues with the early R50. Tire pressure was one of them. The spec should be 28psi. It was part of the quality assurance tsb. I thing you would be fine running it at 30psi. Dont get carried away.

How did you balnce the wheel and tire? Im sure you created some "road force" with the damage. If you can see the damage, depending on how bad it is, you probably should not be using it. Now, I would have the alignment checked. You may have bent something if the impact was great enough.

Before everyone gets too carried away here, can you make a video of your engine and post it? To me, from your description, you probably have a lift collapsing. As stated, they are not adjustable. The begin to develop a small leak and wont "pump up", or get sticky from lack of clean oil. Luckily, the right side is a piece of cake. The left side, not so much as you have to remove the intake. Oh, and thats a 15 year Nissan master tech recommending that.

Tacometer failures are very common around here. You can pull the cluster, then loosen and retighten the small brass screws on the printed circuit board. This helps in some cases, but, you may need a new one. As far a your windows, if the rear windows still wont drop, you may have a manster switch failing. YOu can always check for power at the motors and rear switches.

Though I think your problems are seperate, you may have a power or ground issue. First, there are two points of ground at each A-pillar, near the kick panel. You should be able to access it by removing the sill cover, then the kickpanel. You should be able to identify it as it should be a black wire going into a eyelet terminal, bolted to the body. Make sure they are clean and snug. The other is a power issue. I looked at the power supply routing diagram in a 94 manual(oldest I have availible), and the only thing they share, is the fuse block itself. Now, power is supplied to the fuse panel by means of the Accessroy relay, the Ignition relay, and the window are powered by the Ignition 2 relay(it gets its signal from the Ignition relay. I would go look for loose or corroded connections at those points. Oh, and you may want to download a manual for your year to help you along. Here is how I did it....

Thanks B. Thats Probably not a bad idea. Ok, dont forget, when you want to check the codes, you must have the ABS light on. The best way to do this is to drive your rig around the block(just get over 12MPH for 5 seconds), park, set the E-brake, and leave the ignition on(engine running). Then ground your pin and watch the ABS light flash. The reason for this, is that the ABS system is self-checking. Everytime you turn the ignition on, the system resets and rechecks. It actually checkes itself every-so-often as you drive also. If you had a code, its now gone, but will return when you drive it. Remember to test drive after you made a repair and make sure the light does not come back on. Hope that makes sense!

Well, I couldnt find the other thread, so, lets post it again!!!!

Sounds like your ABS module is finding a failure during self-check. Most common probem is the sensor that is attached to the rear diff, at the pinion. The WD21 pathfinders only have rear abs. You can check codes by grounding a pin on the abs plug on the left side of your dash(it should be blue). I believe there was a write-up done, or there was another recent thread where it was all lined out.

Wrong. If if stuck open, even a little bit, it will change the air/fuel mixture quite a bit. The O2 sensor will detect too much oxygen, and richen the mixture, causing poor fuel mileage.

Here you go......

I would imagine your rig may already be wired for the mirrors. Remove the door panels and check for small harness taped up. This should reach up to the middle of the door. If you have a service manual, go to the BF section and look at the mirrors. I will try to scan and copy the pages for you. Oh, and I think mine come on when you turn the rear defroster on.

A EGR system failure might hurt your Mpgs. If its stuck open a bit, this may cause a lack of power. The EGR system should only work when at "cruise". Typical failures are usually leaks. In the system, right next to the EGR valve, is the BPT valve. There is a small rubber hose under it that will rot out. Also, you can manually check the EGR valve by pressing up on the diaphram, while its running, and it should slightly stall. Do a quick inspection and see what you find.

The part that is hanging by the hoses, is a water seperator. Its supposed to be attached to the bracket just abouve it in your picure(with the square hole). As stated, its for your evap system. It may have been worked on at some point in time. The canister is known to come apart and have small charcoal "beads" sucked up to the intake mainfold. Someone was just sloppy putting it back together. The other is a drain for your sunroof.

This is what I run.... Sorry about the first pic.....kinda blurry.

Is there no possiblity of finding a used transmission and swapping it in? At times, yes, it may be time to cut your losses and move on. But, you need to seriously evaluate your rig. Perform a full inspection. Look for more rust issues, other mechanical issues, ect. If its not that bad, I say fix. If not, then you are looking to drop a lot more cash on a used rig, that may need work also. Not many can find a rig and drive it for a year without having to dump some money into it. If you get a new rig, then you may also be looking at payments for several years to come. Can you afford it? What about the raise or drop in insurance? By your description above, I say fix it and keep it for awhile. Save up your money for a new/newer rig down the road when its needed.

Try loosening the dryer from its mount, and loosen the other fittings. This will give you some "play" and you may manuver it around to get the threads to line up. Got a tap and die set? You could grab the thread gauge and measure the threads and see if they are the same.

Ok, here are the ratios for a 94 Pathfinder. Thats as far back as I can go, but they should be the same. This should be in the Service Manual(paper or online) if you have one. Just for the Service Data & Specifications table.

I heard about this when I was at the new QX56 class. Yep, its coming, but still a bit off.