DTE

Good price on some HID lights, but i've had a couple sets of lights with the same housing as those. Not great, rust quickly, not much adjustment on mounting. Let us know how they work out tho! can't go wrong with that price.

Great traction aid, but doesn't work for bridging any gaps. The fiberglass grating comes in a spec that is able to support the weight of the pathy to span a gap.

Just do a search online and you will find lots of options. I managed to find a place locally that had them, never ended up getting a set though. Cheap, under $200 for a few pieces, I think i settled on 3 feet long or something like that.

Best solution i've found is industrial fiberglass grate. They use it for walkways and whatnot. Strong enough, not too expensive, really light.

That is extremely cheap, I am looking forward to seeing this one...any change for multiple units?

So should this be a no cost trip to the dealer? I've had this code going off on mine for over a year. Had it in at the dealer once and they said i needed to replace all of my cats..$1200 in parts they say. I opted to skip that one haha

How you liking those tires?

I just did this yesterday, was pretty easy, besides the tough drain plug on the rear diff!! Only thing that was a little different, my All Mode 4x4 transfer case had the drain and fill plugs in slightly different places than pictured above. I didn't take a picture because it's pretty easy to spot them. Filling the T-Case was a bit messy, but thanks for all the tips Lee! OH! And i did notice something kind of neato, on the transfer case there was a few little Kangaroos stamped into the rear casing, anyone know where that came from?

I second that.

Thanks Peter! I found another older post that said he just did the plugs and everything was working out. Going to go that route first and see what happens. I'm almost sure they are the original plugs and i'm not at just about 200k KMs! Don't know for sure though, it was bought used, and served as a Nissan dealer vehicle for 3 years right before I bought it, 1 owner before the Dealer took it back.

I know this post is almost a year old now, however i just started having the same problem. I find it only happens when I haven't driven on the highway for a couple weeks. Usually when i'm just doing short trips around town and it's very wet. I will get a really bad shudder and the SES light will start flashing. usually if i bring up the RPMs for a bit and then shut it off and restart the shudder goes away. i haven't run the codes yet since I'm kind of low on funds and need to wait for some back pay to come in at the end of the month. Anyone else had this problem? There was no answer from tbsbiker2 saying that the coil swap fixed it or not..

DEFINITELY go for the clutch master cylinder hole if you have an auto. I've wired up two of my pathy's now using that spot. i'm running HUGE 0/1 gauge welding cable since it's powering two 2500watt amps. You don't need to drill anything. just unbolt, i think there's two nuts on the inside of the engine compartment and then 1 attached to a bracket on the inside of the footwell in the cab. I didn't put anything back in there and don't find any problems with it, you don't ahve to drill anything, just leave the small blocking plate out. Drive thru lots of puddles and no water leaks in or anything like that. For sure use a grommet because the metal there is kind of sharp and will work it's way through the wire jacket.

I'm having the same problem, most of the time now it won't even work if i'm standing directly next to the truck! i've changed batteries twice. I do know that sometimes the truck can 'forget' the signal code coming from the remotes. I can't seem to get the re-programing procedure for R-50s to work on my 2001. Maybe it has changed, maybe i need to give it another couple tries.

I've got a flip up dvd in my Pathy. Don't have a pic on this computer right now but I will get one for yah.

I just did a quick search and couldn't find the write up for an R50 lift install..

Look at the gap on the right side between your yellow line and the end of the upper coil, there is no gap on the right side of the bottom coil, but the left side of the coils both meet up. The coil on the bottom IS shorter.... although not by very much at all.

Makes sense but, the heighest part of the springs may be the same height, but if you look at the very end of the coil, it comes back down on both, but comes down even lower on one of the springs.

So forever we're stuck with the filter in a bad location, which gets even worse as soon as you put on some skids?

That's news to me. Would be good to know tho.

I WILL do a search, but only is someone can answer this questions: has there been an Efan swap write up done yet?

I'd say go there twice and buy each set of tires, cheaper than buying them all at once haha.

Gearhead! How's that feel after driving all day? Looks a bit large/uncomfortable. Pretty neat tho!

After looking at your offroad pics, i forgot that your truck was red! haha

Thanks Simon and Pezzy, killed it. That's one less thing to worry about next time.

So I know a lot of the WD21 guys talk about moving their ECU from under the passenger seat to the glove box. But where is ours located? I know it's not under the passenger seat because that's where the computer for my DVD head unit is...which also needs to be move. The last time i went camping I had to cross a few streams, not too deep, but above the rocker panels, and i was just thinking about how much it was going to cost if anything had stopped me.