sonyslave

Will try that should the unit fail to power up again! Disconnecting the CD unit could save the radio... Just fyi, in my case the entire radio/cd/cassette seemed to be not be getting any power, display would remain off when hitting the power button.

Yeah, strange that pulling and reinserting the fuse fixed it. Maybe something loose in the fuse box, though everything is stock and the vehicle is stored in a dry environment. 22 years old, so odd things can happen....

2003 R50 with OEM 6 disc changer and cassette player/radio would not power on. Pulled the radio fuse (fusebox on left side of steering wheel), still good, reinstalled fuse. Turn on key, radio still won't power up. Pulled the 'amp' fuse (fusebox on left side of steering wheel), was still good, upon reinstallation of amp fuse the 6 disc changer start cycling through 6 disc holders -even with the key off(well, ...90% sure the key was off) Turned on key and the radio powered up. No idea why, but radio works again (cd died ages ago, probably laser or laser transport is broken)

Thanks! It took a while to figure out. I have not done much work on brakes, however hydraulic systems are pretty straightforward if one considers a master cylinder to be basically a syringe with 2 exits. -Also just fyi (don't want to give anyone the wrong assumption) when the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor that is not usually symptom of brake booster failure, typically it could indicate a master cylinder seal failure.

This was on an '03 2wd The brakes suddenly were not as effective. Had to stand on the brakes and even then, much reduced braking force. With the engine off the pedal would sink to the all the way to the floor. I thought the master cylinder went out since there was no hydraulic resistance felt at the pedal with the engine off. First: I inspected for leaks and found one rear wheel cylinder had a small leak. The exterior of the drum housing on the side facing the pumpkin had a barely discernable, small damp spot in the grime near the bleeder nipple. That wheel cylinder was bad, fluid weeping past the rubber seal, clearly visible when lifting the outside lip of the rubber seal. I swapped in a new wheel cylinder (fyi you don't need to take apart the brake shoes, just crank open the adjuster. After install is complete you have to crank it back closed while holding open the one way stopper arm) I power bled that line at the wheel cylinder -it was strange because it was difficult for the power bleeder to get a lot of fluid out of the line -but eventually enough came out that I considered it to be air bubble free. The pedal was still sinking to the floor... I slightly cracked each line (2 lines) at the master cylinder connection (while pedal was being depressed) to see if there was pressure passing out of the MC, there was. So I assumed the MC was good. I power bled more at all 4 corners TWICE pumped brakes with engine of and on, and still, not a lot of fluid was coming out, but enough that I thought maybe there are no air bubbles. Next I pumped pedal with the engine off, the pedal was firm, a good sign that the system was holding pressure and bubble free. Next I test drove and noticed an air hiss under braking, this is a telltale sign of a leaking brake booster. Next I swapped in a new brake booster and all is well. Theory: the rear wheel cylinder failed and allowed air into the line creating the sinking to the floor brake pedal. Then: maybe full extension of the brake booster under repeated 'pedal to the floor' strokes caused the brake booster diaphragm to tear? Takeaway: the master cylinder is fine despite the symptoms being indicative of a failed MC. Also: this is the 2nd replacement brake booster for this vehicle (master cylinder showed no leaks). 1st replacement BB was from O'Reilly's, a remanufactured unit from China bought in 2019, and was garbage, it start having a rubber squeak sound 2 weeks after install, and failed at 5 years. Upside, lifetime warranty on the original purchase, 2nd BB was no charge (reman unit for Mexico) -but not sure if the lifetime warranty applies to the replacement part. If you diy this have various extra ratchet extensions and wobblers on had, also deep well sockets. Working under the dash is a bitch so allow extra time.

Many good lessons to be learned, thanks for sharing that one!

Thanks! I went with the Moogs too. Prob only about 15k ago. No problems.

Thanks Slartibartfast, yep gonna bite the bullet and do that today. Will post my findings.

This method is not perfect, but it is easy for you to to do by yourself and gets your toe alignment set fairly accurately provided you don't measure incorrectly. Tips: Gorilla tape holds fast to the tire. Use a flexible, light weight tape measure (mine was a freebie from the bank), or perhaps a cloth tape measure that flexes easily. Do not thread screws into the tire, just barely go into the tread block, this step is not necessary but it makes it easier to check that you are setting the tape measure on the exact same plane for an accurate measurement. Set 1st screw in tread. Measure distance to floor, use this distance to set the 2nd screw at a similar distance to floor -doesn't have to be perfect, just close - because this method measures difference. I like to mark the position and the measurement value on the tire itself to make things simple, use a pen mark traced on the tire. This helps to remind yourself if you are lacing the tape over or through the tread blocks so you can duplicate the lacing for the 2nd measurement. Roll Pathfinder to 2nd position for measurement, leave screws in place while rolling. Do not roll over screws. Retract tape measure and leave tape measure attached (taped) to tire during rolling, do not run it over. NOTE: the tape measure is still on the SAME SIDE of the screw relative to the screw. -don't lace the tape measure along the top(or bottom) of the screw for both measurements. The tape has to be in a straight line under the vehicle, obstructions to the tape forcing it to wrap/bend around will err your measure. The closer to 180 degrees out for the 2nd measurement will the aid the accuracy of the measurement. I can't take credit for this method, it was originally posted elsewhere -using pins/needles in the tread and measuring the distance between the pins. Seemed too difficult to do by myself so I modified it to this method. Hope this helps out somebody, I've gotten a ton of help from NPORA!!!

Doing a quick and dirty alignment, does anyone know the ratio of turns on the tie rod vs. inches/degrees of adjustment at the wheel? I have Moog tie rod outers if that matters...are all manufs standardized as far as threads per inch? So many questions... Thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks for passing that along Alkorahil! I'll check out those Nismo pads, great price! I try to stick with Japanese made replacement parts, usually they last longer than other brands.

Thanks all for the help and input. I wanted to stick with stock because based on what I've read the manufacturers put a lot of effort into optimizing pad performance and rotor life, often their oem pads offer the best trade off between the two. I originally checked rock auto, just wanted to confirm with others that the Akebono brand was the stuff Nissan would use. Thanks!!

Anyone know? Thanks! I'm swapping pads and want to stick with what Nissan uses. ....Yes I did a search, -a short one.

Nice! Like the door moulding too!

Looks sharp! Nice job.

I changed out my struts and had very similar problems to yours. I put the strut bearing in the wrong place upon installation. I took everything apart and put the strut bearing in the correct place and all was good after that. The problems I had were because of the friction due to there being no sliding bearing surface that is normally provided by the bearing.

For those considering doing the same: Another happy camper. Installed Kyb struts, Kyb bellows, Moog strut mounts, Kyb shocks and split poly trailing arm bushings(I forget the brand since I ordered it 2.5 years ago when the death wobble started -yes I procrastinate) . -The split ones are easier to install. I did the same as many others before me, installed KYB and they made the Pathy drive great. After installing only the new struts the death wobble was much less pronounced. A day later I did the shocks and split poly trailing arm bushings, now it drives fantastic. I wish the rear shocks had a little less dampening though. If I have about 200lbs in the back it's real comfortable, when empty the compression dampening in the rear is just a bit harsh but that may go away after the shocks bed in? Still happy I went with KYB since their shocks are known to be quality pieces. I have never dealt with struts before. I bought a spring compressor off of Amazon for $40(it goes by the name "OEM 25550 Strut Spring Compressor"). It worked well, but kinda scary the 1st time you use it. Mistake: I installed the strut bearing in the wrong spot on both assemblies. Fyi, you can still drive without strut bearings but the steering won't center on it's own and i'm sure the added stress and wear and tear is terrible. I took everything apart the 2nd day and reassembled it correctly. Surprisingly there was hardly any wear in the metal to metal contact points normally separated by the bearings. I attempted to cut out the old trailing arm bushing sleeves on my own with a hack saw but said fiorget it after half an hour and took it to a shop to have them pressed out. I'm so happy now with the way she drives that I'm going to fix the a/c. The old suspension had 160k on it and one strut was so worn that it would make a metallic loud 'whack' noise when going over mild potholes. Note: I do not live in a place where the roads are salted. I did use PB Blaster thread penetrent on all the bolts/nuts about a month before and then again the day before I removed them. They all came off pretty easily with air tools.

Thanks clkindred! That info helps!

Anyone know where is that steel ring spacer is supposed to go? It came with the Moog strut bearing mount. There doesn't seem to be enough room on top my KYB GR2 strut for it. Thanks!!!

My 96 at 150k had the same problem, thanks to these great NPORA folks I had the inside line to an easy fix. Seems the shifter interlock switch has the same rubber bumper as the brake switch, maybe that's why my cruise control doesn't work anymore. Related: like ahardb0dy my old 91 Sentra SE-r had the same brake issue, I fixed it and the Pathy the same way. Gaffer tape stuck to the pedal arm with a small piece of wood held in place by the gaffer tape to emulate the height of the rubber bump stop. This will have to do until I have time to get the right part.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25062 Just was discussed there!

Thanks for the info!

Glad you got rid of the wobble! I tried channel locks on my mine (inner tie rod) but it wouldn't budge, even with a ~20 inch breaker is was tight! Your replacing everything makes me want to do the same, I still have a little wobble sometimes so maybe it's the other inner or the outers and not my oil soaked steering rack bushings.

Thanks laxman, that's high praise coming from you -I just read your LSD upgrade post, now THAT'S a great mod! Holy cow!

I'm pretty sure that the transmitter/learning computer(*Arnold T1000 voice*) guts for the homelink garage door opener are all housed inside the visor, so it just needs 12v and maybe a ground, I'm basing this assumption on my recollection of seeing a 2 pin connector coming out of the visor arm. On second thought!: I would consult the service manual 1st to double check the input voltage requirement, would hate for someone to fry their new(used) homelink system.