KovemaN
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Posts posted by KovemaN
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It's a ton of work. I've seen THIS truck in person and the changes to the frame rails and firewall are pretty drastic.
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Ok let's plan for that date then. Koveman are you planning on camping out up there and coming back down the back road? I was thinking about renting one of those nicer cabins in CK so I can avoid hauling all my camping gear this time.
I was planning on renting a cabin from Bear Creek. HERE is a directory for everything in CK.
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Any chance that you would move it to the 24th? I'm already planning on heading up that weekend, but I'm not sure about making the trip twice in two weeks.
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thanks for calling me a ten yr old
I think he was referring to his own reading comprehension
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Welcome. Shoot me a PM with what you are looking to spend. I am thinking about selling my '95.
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You are aware of the wd's notorious frame rot issues correct...you know the main support for the body rotting away and falling apart
I am aware of that problem on nearly every vehicle driven in places where they salt the roads. Not too much of that going on here in AZ. Paint sure takes a beating though.
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Atleast if I do that, it will be one that WONT look like swiss cheese after awhile
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Table Mesa - Lower Terminator
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I'll vote for the first one to put a frame under the caR50.
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I could use two. Having voltage, oil pressure and coolant temp would be nice.
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KovemaN:
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What exactly do you mean by "hit the end of the arm"? Do you hit the free end so that it is acting like a "lever"? I guess it isn't going to bend...
No. You smack the forward facing part of the arm. The shock helps to loosen arm especially when there is tension on it from the puller.
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I have the puller from Harbor Freight (#1752) and it has pulled three Nissan pitmans for me with no problem. Her are the steps I take.
1. Soak overnight with PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating lubricant.
2. Loosen the sector shaft nut, but don't remove it completely.
3. Keep the puller aligned with the arm while tightening. Maintain as much surface contact as possible while keeping it even on both sides of the arm.
4. Tighten gradually and hit the end of the arm with a BFH.
5. Repeat until the arm pops.
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I have a 1997 2wd king cab D21 and that setup should work. The setup is nearly identical to the Pathfinder. If you have headers you will want to make a heat shield though. The cable routes fairly close to the exhaust and it will melt if not protected.
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Great looking truck and, in my opinion, great looking picture!
Colbywan
Gotta love the Z.A.V.
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The member map is showing 8 in AZ, but I have two Pathfinders so does that make it 9? 9 1/2 if you count all the spare crap I have.
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The plastic cutting boards are usually made of textured HDPE. Just like the large food prep surfaces in restaurants and fast food places. Sometimes it's impregnated with an antimicrobial agent for obvious reasons. I believe that HDPE is FDA certified while UHMW is not.
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When we meet up for the sway bar you can have a look at my skid plates. I have the AC front skid and diff skid, custom oil pan skid and I have two stock gas tank skids bolted into the factory mounting spot. My '91 also has the stock t-case skid, but my '95 does not. I suppose it could have been removed or rattled loose somewhere along the line. It should be a pretty easy find at the JY along with the extra tank skid. If I were going to do a custom one I would probably go with HDPE for weight and ease of cutting. I have a plasma cutter though so cutting out a new steel one wouldn't be too bad.
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Add the Calmini HD steering kit and you can crawl on 33's all day. I have beat the stink out of mine and it's still daily driver capable. Longer rear shocks, no rear sway-bar, longer rear coils and a locker will take a WD21 anywhere you care to go. Beyond that I would recommend a SAS.
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I've got one you can have for free. PM me if you want it.
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Welcome.
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When I'm done I still want to be able to drive the truck to work or across the state for camping. I will be doing a 3-link up front with 12" coilovers. I was planning on having 4" uptravel, but keeping everything as low as possible while still being able to clear 35s. The rear will have longer arms, but I haven't decided whether to go with a triangulated or panhard setup. I was just wondering what numbers you used for total mass, front/rear unsprung mass (with d44 front, h233 rear and 35s) and CG height (stock). Of course I will have to adjust for CG height when I figure out exactly how high she will be sitting. I will probably stretch the WB a little too so I will have to take that into account.
I searched but couldn't find an answer
in General Forums
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I have a set of MMs for $40 if you want them. I also have a spare set of Warn hubs, but I'll need to check their condition before I give you a price.